THE CHUCK WON'T TURN WITH THE MOTOR RUNNING. YOU CAN HOLD IT IN YOUR HAND AND FEEL IT CLICKING AND HEAR IT WHAT COULD BE WRONG WITH IT?

Worked for Me .Put the drill in reverse, firmly grip the chuck (the part you were calling the head) and gently squeeze the trigger up the point that you cannot hold on. If you hear clicking, and it doesn't torque very much, you need to turn the torque setting up to the maximum (the highest number, or the drill setting if it has one). If it still doesn't budge and you're not able to hold the chuck against the force of the drill, you may want to use something stronger than your hand to hold the chuck. A strap wrench is well designed for this task and won't damage the chuck. http://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/24528/how-do-i-remove-a-drill-bit-that-is-stuck-due-to-an-overtightened-chuck

I'm not sure about power craft tools, but chucks are either screwed on or have a taper pressed fit.

If it's screwed onto the shaft, there are some tricks to getting the chuck off. (Chucks have normal threads, the retaining screw is reversed threads.)
1. Check for a flat spot on the spindle behind the chuck. If there is one you can clamp down the chuck in a vice and use a wrench to spin off the shaft.
2. Clamp down the chuck onto something and connect it to an impact wrench and try to spin off.
3. (BE CAREFUL) Clamp down on the chuck with a vice and spin the motor in reverse to try and pop it off. (Again be careful.)
4. Take it to any tool repair shop and ask them to take it off. (It's a common request.)

If it's a tapered chuck (usually on drill presses or large chucks) you can clamp something into the jaws of the chuck and hammer away from the drill. Remember to keep it steady while hammering because it probably won't come off if you're just holding in your hand. You need a strong jolt to pop it off the taper.

The large black part of the chuck should turn left and right to extend (close) and retract (open) the three chuck teeth that hold the bit in place. Turn the chuck to open it far enough to get your bit fully in the chuck then turn it closed to hold the bit in. When the teeth make contact turn the chuck a bit further to get it tight enough that the bit won't slip. When you get used to it, sometimes it's easier to hold the chuck lightly and turn it by lightly squeezing the trigger to turn the chuck with the drill motor.

Your electric motor probably has a flat spot ... give it a tap .. And try to power up.. I had that happen to a drill... I had to unplug it.. Uncover the motor and physically rotate the motor . Also the other problem area is the trigger (switch). May be worn.

Hi,

It could either be your motor capacitor which is the more common item, or the actual motor itself.

If you start the machine and can hear the motor running but no action, that is your drive belt. But if motor is struggling to turn it is your motor capacitor which basically kick starts the motor.

I am not familiar with the Samsung dryer as I have not seen them. Not sure if you are able to hold in the door switch with a screw driver and then start the machine. If so try this and turn the drum by hand. If this makes the dryer run after the initial jolt, then it is definitely your motor capacitor.
Sometimes the capacitor is inbuilt into the main control board.
Good luck.
Ash

Hi,
Sounds like the chuck holder is already worn and needs replacement.
If the motor still runs but the drill bit won't turn the problem would be the chuck adjuster( the one that holds the drill bit and tightens it ).
If the motor does not turn but there is a whining sound the problem would be the armature bushing ( it is inside the motor which the rotor/armature rotates). The armature does not turn anymore.
Fuse is out of question because the motor still have some power. Check also the motor brush.
Disassembling it requires to unscrew all the screws on the side and carefully remove the side cover, you can clean it and dust it off.
Hope that helps you out!

Most drills with the keyless chuck work this way. Put the drill into reverse. Grasp the chuck with your left hand, and then pull the switch slowly. This should release the chuck. If your drill has no reverse, then grasp the chuck again with your left hand and hold the drill with your right hand. Turn the chuck with your left hand quickly, this should release the drill as well.

Set the drill to reverse. Hold the chuck, press the trigger and open the drills chuck to it wide open position. Now,, take the correct size allen wrench and insert it into the back of the chuck to remove the screw. Turn the screw clockwise to remove it. Notice I said clockwise, just the opposite of what you might think. Hold the chuck with your hand or a pair of large vise grips and press the trigger to unscrew the chuck from the drill. Rotate it counterclockwise to remove it from the drill. Reverse the procedure to install the new chuck.

These are fairly easy to disassemble and get back together, take it apart and find out what got stripped, It might be an easy fix, then again, it might be going back to sears. They will take it back no matter what. Hope this helps.

Release the belts and check if you can turn the chuck by habd, if the chuck won;t turn, two things could be wrong, 1) the quill bearings are bad or 2) the shaft that runs down thru the quill could ve rusted causing a restriction, if that's the case, WD 40 should loosen it.