Question about Mitsubishi WD-52525 52" Rear Projection HDTV
When tv was turned off, everything was working fine. Turned tv on next morning and, Ant.1 showed a black screen with white dots, and computer garbage (It wasn't just static, you can tell it is computer generated lines), moving around and was colored green,
The other devices, (ps3 and vcr) had blue screen with a basketball sized ghost floating around in the middle of the screen. Sometimes, audio partially works on ant. 1. I can select demo mode and the picture comes in almost perfect, except for the floating ghost is still present.
There are no flashing lights on the front panel, just the one solid green light.
So, Neal, would you have any dissassembly diagrams or other info that might help me do the repairs myself. My e-mail is Boss51@Atlasok.com. Thanks for any help you can give.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Flickering blue picture
I finally got around to dismantling the TV. This is no mean task. The chassis is tethered to the rest of the set my over a dozen wiring harnesses and a few of these cannot be disconnected near the chassis but instead require removing the “right support” near the air duct and taking the shield off the lamp ballast. Once the chassis assembly is out, it is a further significant task to disassemble it to get at the various PWBs (POWER, FMT and DM) having the suspect caps. I’m sure reassembling everything will be a fun job!
I have not yet had a chance to fix and reassemble but I wanted to post this no as I’m not sure when I will get around to it.
I did find six of the fourteen known-problem caps to be visibly bulging -- both 3300s and two of the four 1000s on the PWR PWB plus two of the four 1000s on the FMT PWB (see photos below). Ironically of the four 1000s on the DM PWB, which I have heard are the most common to go bad, were bulging and I considered skipping these as the DM it is the toughest board to extricate from the chassis, however I figured I had come this far and I would just as soon replace all twelve 1000 uFs as the parts cost $0.23 and I really never want to have to do this again.
If I had to bet, the two 10V 3300uF caps on POWER board, which were actually leaking black goo, are the actual culprits, but with four of the 1000 uFs also bulging it is probable only a matter of time until they failed as well.
Here is the POWER PWB with the known-problem caps (C9A37, C9A38, C9A51, C9A52, C9A61 and C9A62) highlighted:
here's the FMT PWB with the known-problem caps (C8F19, C8F21, C8F22 and C8F27) highlighted:
and the DM PWB with the known-problem caps (C81A2, C81A3, C81B3 and C81B4) highlighted:
Here are close-ups of the bulging caps (C9A37, C9A38, C9A52 and C9A62) on the POWER PWB:
And here are close-ups of the bulging caps (C8F19 and C8F27) on the FMT PWB:
Posted on Feb 16, 2008
SOURCE: mitsubishi wd52525 problems
i have thought about this since you first posted it. if the demo is good then the light engine is ok. it sounds like a problem in the chassis. probably on the DM and the terminal board. to repair the chassis would cost about $250.00 plus shipping.
go to www.tv-techs.com
Posted on Jan 12, 2009
The green CRT's (color picutre tube or color wheel, or ballast) will need to be tested for replacement.
It is quite common with these tv's
You will need an ohmmeter and or voltmeter and test each component for currency and accuracy
Posted on May 06, 2009
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