Bleeding screen the other day my sansa's screen broke and started to bleed inc so now i cant see or decide what i am listening to is there any way to fix it or should i just get a new one.

start at the filter and bleed the air , next is the bleed screws at the pump (could be one or two depending on the make ) if it doesn't start then loosen off all the injector lines at the injectors and crank the engine until you see fuel dripping from the nuts ( that is bleeding the air from the injector line s)
have someone tighten the nuts while cranking and it will then fire up as the nuts get tightened

Your master cylinder seals could be by- passing internally or it is not being bled right.
Try one of those self bleeder kits.Have a clear hose installed on the bleed nipple tightly and have it immersed in brake fluid in a jar -loosen nipple and slowly press the pedal till you see no bubbles in the hose then tighten nipple.ps- start from the furtherest wheel.

You need a helper, to slowly press the brake pedal down, as you open bleeder valve,then close before your helper gets near the floor.
Repeat until all air is out of each wheel position.
RR,LR,RF then LF. Always start from the farthest wheel and have motor running
Never pump brakes. That does nothing at all.

Bleeding the system is as follows. It also helps if you have a length of clear plastic tubing that fits snugly over the tip of the bleed nipple, which makes it easier to see if there are any air bubbles still coming out.

1. Start with the Master Cylinder full of fluid. (Don't forget to check after a few bleeds that it stays above ¼ full so that you don't introduce more air into the line).

2. Have an assistant pump the clutch pedal 2 or 3 times, then hold down, keeping weight on the pedal as fluid is released.

3. Loosen bleed nipple to release any air & fluid.

4. Tighten nipple. Assistant then lets clutch pedal return. It may be necessary to manually pull back pedal if it does not return by itself.

5. Wait a few seconds then repeat the sequence from #2.
Bleeding is complete when no more air bubbles are visible in the fluid released from the bleed nipple. If clutch is still spongy you may have to repeat the bleeding after a few days driving.

did you bleed the system good from air pockets...sometimes you have to remove the brake master cyclinder and bench bleed it to get all the air out...but your problem is to much air in system...start with bench bleeding the master cyclinder first.

1. Fill the coolant in the coolant expansion tank
2. Ensure that no coolant leaks from the radiator and pump
3. Identify the coolant bleed screw, this screw is just beside the thermostat
4. Start the engine and loosen the coolant bleed screw. Now coolant comes out with air bubbles. allow the coolant to flow until coolant comes without air bubbles.
5. Tighten the coolant bleed screw.

hello,good day,since you replaced your master cylinder,try first to bleed your master,then if you bleed the system,remove your wheel for easy access on bleeding screw,right rear first to open the left rear and front,ty

you have 2 things to do : 1- if you have the warranty you could exchane it. 2- Go to an lectronic store and buy the screen seperately, take the first one off than put the other one.

break something under warantee and send it in