Wood is smoking

The chain tension is to tight.

Small wood burning stoves go back to an era when America was a simpler place. You didn't have to rely on a gas provider or pay extra fees to heat your home; you simply grabbed some logs from the woodpile out back and placed them in your stove. On the other hand, life wasn't all glamorous back then; the first wood stoves were leaky and left clouds of toxic black smoke everywhere, but we have come a long way. The best wood stoves of today offer increased efficiency, heat output, and safety compared to their predecessors.

Gas Fireplace Manual - Gas Fireplace Instructions: Mendota ...

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Mendota gas fireplace manuals and gas fireplace instructions for Mendota ...Mendota Gas Fireplace Insert FullView Model FV33i PF2 - Installation Manual

[PDF]FIREPLACE HEATER - Crane

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your fireplace heater, please contact Crane. Customer ... This instruction manualapplies to the following models of the Fireplace Heaters product line: Color.

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You burn wood, and smoke goes up flueway.
You're not running chimney smoke through ductwork so you have a heat exchanger.
What kind of heat exchanger?
probably air since you're running through ductwork?
How much hot air or hot water is coming off heat exchanger?
How big of a space can be heated with that amount of heat?
Is the exchanger located in optimal location?

Considerations.
One room log cabin with fireplace will not stay very warm.
One room house with big wood burning stove in center, with hot flue pipe running across the room and exiting on far wall, will get warm-hot, but will cool off fast.
Why?
Because the BTU output of firewood is much less than electric, coal, oil, or gas.
Otherwise they would have made wood-burning steam locomotives. But the locomotive boiler cannot get hot enough with wood ... the boiler needs coal to produce enough BTUs to boil water fast enough to rotate the turbine and turn the wheels.

Maybe your wood stove output should be measured.
Don't forget a huge percentage of fire heat goes straight up flueway.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

The chain needs sharpened or replaced. You can purchase the tools from any hardware store, and sharpen the chain yourself in about 15 minutes. Don't worry, your saw is just fine!

It ain't drafting right or you have the damper closed. Look for obstructions in the smoke stack.
Wood burning tips

• Burn only wood. No garbage, plastics, rubber, paint or oil, briquettes, paper, etc. Burning these items releases harmful chemicals into the air.
• Burn Wise Program from EPA: Emphasizes the importance of burning the right wood.
• Build small, hot fires instead of large, smoldering ones.
• Don't "bed the fire down" for the night. Holding a fire overnight is a fire hazard and can create serious indoor and outdoor air pollution problems.
• Open your damper if the smoke is dark. Dark smoke indicates more pollution is being produced and fuel is being wasted.
• Keep your stove clean and well-maintained. Follow manufacturer guidelines; replace catalytic stove filters every 1-4 years. Have your chimney checked and cleaned at least once a year.

Use seasoned wood The best fuel for woodstoves is dry, "seasoned" wood. Seasoned wood has a moisture content of about 20% or less. It tends to be dark in color, cracked on the ends, light in weight and has bark that is easily broken or peeled. Here are some tips for preparing seasoned wood:

• Split the wood to help it dry. Wood will dry out more quickly and burn best if the wood is cut to about 3 1/2 inches to 6 inches in diameter.
• Cover the split firewood to protect it from the weather and stack it loosely in alternating layers, at least 6 inches off the ground.
• Time must be given to allow the wood to reach 20% or less moisture required for seasoned wood. This process takes approximately 6-12 months. Think ahead and buy next winter's wood well in advance.

It is recommended an annual chimney cleaning to remove creosote build up and to identify potential problems. Things to consider:

• The Chimney cap may be plugged by debris.
• Catalytic combustor and baffles are exposed to very high heat and deteriorate as used. Replace every 1-4 years depending on use.
• Stovepipe angles and bolts are subject to corrosion.
• Gaskets on airtight stove doors need replacement every few years. Gaskets and seals are used by the appliance designer to control the location and flow of air into the appliance.
• Check seams on stoves sealed with furnace cement. Seams may leak and cause you to loose valuable heat and reduce the efficiency of the unit.
• Replace broken or missing firebricks.
• Keep the floor of your stove clean of debris and ash.

-from the web

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

top damper wide open and bottom damper wide open will burn very hot but too fast if you close the top vent off it will smoke in the house the idea is not to smoke the house but once you have a good fire lit with hot cinders to cut back on the top to ceep some heat in cut back on the bottom to burn slower if this is a metal box wood burner it should heat great if it is a standard fireplace with a glass door you need to be careful how close the flame is to the glass it can break. glass front fireplaces don't heat as well as an insert wood burner let me know if this is uesful or any more assistance needed thank you

Hi Rossmac,

Both the smoke and it's lack of cutting ability are symptoms of the same problem. The Chain is dulled. Instead of cutting, it's just rubbing on the wood and heating up. It's also not a big deal to fix..

Your options are:

• Replace the Chain
• Have the Chain sharpened
• Sharpen it yourself

To sharpen it yourself, you will need a narrow round file that will fit inside the Chain teeth. Each tooth has a two cutting edges, get the file a position that matches the tooths angle of attack. Don't over do, three to five swipes of the file should do it on each surface.

You will see they alternate directions. You may find it easier to do all the teeth in one direction (skipping every other tooth) then do the other direction. Up to you.

When you are done, check the level of your chain oil. Since it did get hot, you might manually oil the chain before trying out your handi-work.

Go cut some wood.
Mike

I notice you have an offset smoker. The idea is to get the coals going in the firbox (the smaller circular chamber). The heat from the coals will rise into the main smoking chamber (the large circular chamber) where the food is.

It is difficult to keep your temp set right (about 250) when smoking ribs, brisket or pork **** on a less expensive offset smoker. I don't know what kind you have but it looks like a Brinkman or Charbroil. I'm not being snobby about this as I have a Silver Smoker myself ($185 at Menards).

The solution is to modify it. Search the web for terms like "smoker mod/s". You should be able to find directions on inserting a heat deflection plate, extending your smoker pipe, even adding bricks to the bottom of the smoker chamber to hold the heat. Good luck.