Hobart lx 18 warewasher what hatco booster heater product compatable with it

What type of detergent is not necessarily important - anything intented for use in commercial dishwashers should be sufficient. A restaurant supply store should have something suitable for you.
Also, in case you don't already know, the LX30C is the non-booster-heater version of the LX30 (LX30H has a booster heater). Without a booster heater, you'll need to use chemical sanitizer. The LX30C should, hopefully, have a sanitizer pump installed to inject chemical sanitizer into the rinsewater stream. Most of these dishwashers also have a detergent pump to inject detergent into the wash tank and rinse aid pump for chemical rinse aid.
If present, these pumps are located in the bottom of the machine. Remove the lower front panel (2 screws) and look for the small, black plastic assemblies with 2 hoses connected to each.

You can order a new booster heater.... I would just need the size of the booster heater itself in order to price you one.... What state are you talking about? Susan Restaurant Equipment Outlet 888-542-5959

Most of the Hobart LX series of dishwashers have their own built-in booster heaters. To check for one, remove the lower front panel (2 screws). The booster heater, if present, will be a stainless steel tank on the left side. If it doesn't have a built in booster heater then it was meant to be used with chemical sanitizer instead.

make sure all the curtains are there ,also check for any baffles missing from mach. should be 2 1 on incoming side 1 on outgoing, also ck hood vents had problem before with vents wide open sucking heat right out of warewasher

Most AM-14's use a Parker 3/4" solenoid valve. Readily available from Johnstone Supply, International Commercial Supply, Franklin Machine Products, or Hobart (same part, more expensive). Comes as a whole kit, new diaphragm, strainer, o-ring, and plunger (MUST BE CHANGED).

3 Con, is the booster heat contactor. If it is chattering, the fault will be in the booster. There are a few different boosters in the AM14. can you post the ML number from the data plate, or describe if the booster is a square Hatco HCM-10, or a round stainless booster with a 13 kw multi wired element.. All boosters use a low water cut off circuit, a high limit thermostat and a control thermostat. The old Hatcobooster uses mechanicqal components, where the new rount tank uses probes and a control board. The board has 3 leds. red is calling for heat, yellow is open thermistor, and green is shorted thermistor.
AM14's had a variety of different control circuit voltages, ranging from 240/208/120 and 24 volt AC. Check the transformer secondary for correct output to controls, trace through circuit until voltage pulses. If new style, it could be just scaled up probes not reading water. Drain the tank with the power off before removing probes.

I'm a hobart tech.If the dishwasher is going to be a cold machine you need 140 degrees,if its a hot machine you need 180 which you need a booster.A hatco c-36 will supply the dishwasher with180-190 degrees.Any ? let me know.

A hatco C9 or C12 would be plenty big enough.I would use the larger kw unit if incoming water is very low,but it needs to be 140 degrees coming in so it doesnt sometimes trip the hi limit.

change the company