There is a number of ways to re load the brake, you can either remove the clutch and sprocket, the brake will then go back onto the saw enabling you to use the hand guard on the saw to load the brake ( to remove the clutch, there are two cut a ways in the clutch centre designed to enter a flat screw driver into, then strike with a suitable hammer to remove, it is a left hand thread ) or you can remove the hand guard from the saw and use this as a tool to re load the brake, or you can clamp the cover in a vice ( be carefull not to damage the cover ) then use a strudy pair of pliers or grips in the three legged loading mechanism and turn it to load the brake.
The side plate on most chainsaws will be held on by two nuts. Loosen the blade adjustment screw (a pin that is usually driven by a screw and pushes the blade out from the chainsaw to keep the chain tension tight).
The old chain is ready to be removed now that the sprocket plate is off of the saw. Pull the nose of the chainsaw's bar away from the chainsaw to release it from the tensioner.
Remove the old chainsaw chain.
The chain will easily remove from the guide bar with all that slack in it. Note the orientation of the cutting edges of the chain so you put the new one on the same way.
Pull the drive links out of the guide bar and slip the other end of the chain around the clutch drum.
Carefully thread your new or recently sharpened chainsaw chain around the chainsaw's clutch drum, making sure that the drive links engage in the sprocket.
Thread the rest of the drive links into the guide bar and around its nose, making sure all links are in the guide bar slot.
With the chain properly threaded along the clutch drum and guide bar, put some tension into it by pulling on the nose of the guide bar away from the chainsaw.
While pulling the guide bar, make sure to seat it onto the saw's adjustment pin.
The side plate is ready to go back on as long as the guide bar is properly positioned beneath.
Replace the plate and the nuts that hold it into position, but do not tighten the nuts down all the way yet. The guide bar must be allowed to move a little while the chain is tightened to the correct tension.
The chainsaw chain replacement is now complete.
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