Machine won't swallow the conditioner and leaves some of the powder behind

Stop using powder. Use liquid instead and see if that makes a difference.
First off. Before changing the detergent clean the residue of the powder from the tray.
Another thing to keep in mind is the type of detergent.
You want HE detergent. The reason for HE is it uses less and leaves nothing behind. ( HE stands for High Efficiency detergent.)
Hope this helped.

Have an electrician check the capacitor in the unit as the motor will not run if it has failed.

Beko washing machine, WMA 1512 W stops half way through wash cycle and leaves conditioner in drawer This video will show you how to keep your soap draw clear and how to service the parts
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30 is a very good temperature for encouraging the growth of moulds and bacteria, and 40 is a near perfect temperature for doing so.

There are a few steps you can take to reduce the severity of the common problem you have.

1. Run the machine empty on the highest temperature wash possible (ideally 90 degrees C, but even a 60C cycle will have a positive effect). As you have an existing problem, give it a few goes to start with and consider adding either laundry bleach or peroxide powder (any of the stain removing "oxy-action" type powders are pretty good at bug killing). Afterwards, run at least one boil wash per month, either with items suitable for boil washing or if not just run the machine empty.

2. Between washes, always leave the drawer open an inch or two and leave the door ajar to allow air circulation.

3. Weekly, remove and clean the detergent drawer and the aperture it fits into, and clean the door seal.

4. Try lower dosages of detergent and conditioner. Overdosing just wastes money and provides food for the moulds and bacteria producing those foul odours. Manufacturer's recommended dosages are always rather generous as they sell more product that way.

5. Try different brands of powder and conditioner. For some reason, certain brands (especially of conditioner) cause problems in certain machines, and it's not necessarily the budget brands.

6. Keep your conditioner in the dark. Once opened, if any bug spores get into it the light just encourages them to breed.

7. Consider using an all in one powder which includes the conditioner. Apart from saving money they seem to cause fewer odour problems.

8. Avoid liquid type detergents, other than the special types designed for woollens and silk washing. Not only do liquids cost a lot more, they are ideal breeding soups for some bacteria.

9. If you have to leave laundry in the machine for a few hours post-cycle, consider setting the machine on rinse hold until you return to it. By leaving them in a soggy pile inside the machine they effectively become a textile compost heap and also become far more creased. Rinse hold slows the process down a great deal and reduces your ironing time, so the small time penalty in allowing the machine to complete the final rinse and spin when you return is usually more than offset.

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
Seems you might have at least 2 problems.
Won't move on.....
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Here are my complete and generic guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.
Won't take rinse aid (softener/conditioner)
I suspect that it is the conditioner/softener tray which needs a thorough clean, paying particular attention to the sentences in BOLD ;-0)
-------------------------------------
Remove the complete drawer. To do this you will have to do one of the following-

• Top catch- push down the lip/catch at the middle rear and pull the drawer out (that's how our Bosch one is removed)
• release the catches underneath (our daughter's Indesit) or
• lift upwards on the tray as it is coming out to clear the lip underneath.

One of those should enable you remove it.
Once out identify which tray is for the conditioner- the others are simply 'chutes' and open-ended.
It will normally have some sort of cover over it which you must remove to expose the little stuck up pipe/tube. On some models there is just a small individual cap over the tube. The tube is down which the conditioner and water should siphon. It is likely to be blocked by 'gunge'- a mix of powder and conditioner. The whole of the tray, particularly this pipe and the bit which fits over it, must be completely clean and clear for it to operate correctly. It is worthwhile checking fairly regularly.

If this does not work, pull out the dispenser drawer far enough to be able to just see the softener tray, select the (final?) rinse and check that water is entering the tray. If it isn't there is a fault with the water distribution and an engineer call is required ;-0(

If these have assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
This is a common problem with many machines.
I suspect that it is the conditioner/softener tray which needs a thorough clean, paying particular attention to the sentences in BOLD ;-0)
-------------------------------------
Remove the complete drawer. To do this you will have to do one of the following-

• Top catch- push down the lip/catch at the middle rear and pull the drawer out (that's how our Bosch one is removed)
• release the catches underneath (our daughter's Indesit) or
• lift upwards on the tray as it is coming out to clear the lip underneath.

One of these should enable you remove it
(I am having to guess some of the following!)
Once out identify which tray is for the conditioner- the others are simply 'chutes' and open-ended.
It will normally have some sort of cover over it which you must remove to expose the little stuck up pipe/tube. On some models there is just a small individual cap over the tube. The tube is down which the conditioner and water should siphon. It is likely to be blocked by 'gunge'- a mix of powder and conditioner. The whole of the tray, particularly this pipe and the bit which fits over it, must be completely clean and clear for it to operate correctly. It is worthwhile checking fairly regularly.
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

One cause for this is that one or both of the check balls in the piston are frozen in place. This can be caused by drying paint on the check balls or seats or, as is the case many times in our area, if you did clean the machine well with water without any airless conditioner in it, sometimes the water dries and leave behind minerals that 'lock' the check balls in the seats. Set the machine up in water and turn it on to prime. Using a hammer hit the pump head where the piston is working fairly hard. You are trying not to break anything but knock the check balls loose. If they come loose and water starts cycling through the system, let run a while to wash anything out before switching to paint. If this doesn't work, you may have to take the head apart to see why the check balls won't free up. It could be because of peices of dried paint that won't come loose by themselves.

The siphon in the conditioner compartment is blocked and needs to be cleaned.

Completely remove the soap drawer from your machine and flip up the covered section of the conditioner compartment. The upper half has a dead-end tube which sits over a narrower tube. You need to make sure that both tubes are completely clean. It's likely they'll be gunged up with black goo (typically a mycobacterial biofilm); if you leave any of it behind it will rapidly re-grow.

Preventing the goo is a matter of regular cleaning and a bit of experimentation. Some conditioners seem more prone to it than others (especially cheaper brands which may not include additives to inhibit these growths). I avoid it by using wash powder with built-in conditioner (such as Bold in the UK/Ireland/Europe). Leaving the drawer open between washes (and the washer door slightly ajar) between washes also greatly inhibits growth of these biofilms.

Handyman here-

If you have had the machine for a while, it could be that the conditioner has built up a residue where it drains. Check the manual on how to 'pull the cup' that holds the conditioner and give it a thorough cleaning.

Good Luck!

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