I have an Amana LEA30AW that is approximately 7 years old. It takes 2-3 cycles to dry. I have checked the voltage at the plug 240VAC L1-L2 and 120VAC L1 or L2 to Gnd. I cleaned the lint from the vent duct and the inside of the dryer. There was minimal lint. I drilled a small hole (5/32”) in duct at the back of the dryer and inserted a thermometer. The discharge temp with the cloths almost dry is approximately 165? F. There appears to be a good air discharge at the wall vent. Any ideas would be appreciated.

Please verify the existing connections to determine if they fit the "High Voltage" configuration listed below. If they do (and they should), the "Low Voltage" configuration below is then correct for 240.

Jaypug

Low voltage ...

L1---1--6--7

L2---2--4--8

L3---3--5--9


High voltage ...

L1---1 4--7

L2---2 5--8

L3---3 6--9

To check for voltage, select VAC on meter. electric ranges require 240 vac. common to L1 should read 120 vac, same for common to L2. L1 to L2 should be 240vac. Gas range only needs standard 120vac.

Sounds like one of the cycle thermostats has gone bad.

Hi, on a 3 phase wiring system, all 3 legs will be the same voltage unless it is the 25 year old 3- phase, which would have what was called the stinger leg which was higher in voltage. As on most any 208/230/240.277 volt 3-phase wiring system, L-1, L-2, and L-3, have the exact same voltage.It does not make any difference on any of the 3 hot Legs where they terminate on this element. If there are 3 termination points on this element, connect any of the 3 conductors to element. Trust me, as I deal with 3-phase daily.If you do have a 4th conductor by chance that you removed, you will need to check with a volt meter to see which 3 have 120 to ground and the 4th will have nothing to ground and would be some neutral. 3-phase wiring doesn't require a neutral. If you have any more questions please let me know and I will help you.This will solve you're question I am positive! Sincerely,
Shastalaker7

open your control area,
check your l1 and l2 conections this unit is usually 220v
the control is this simple

voltage in no voltage out change the board

sounds moree likely that you lost one side of your power
check your voltage at the outlet
l1 to ground 120
l2 to ground 120
l1 to l2 220

you can call sears parts service and they can tell you what code means

You need the dryer supply voltage to be 240VAC for the heater. Everything else runs off one leg of that or 120VAC L1 (Black)-Neutral(White)-L2 (Red)
L1 to L2 = 240vac
L1 to Neutral=120vac
L2 to neutral = 120vac
Eric

L1- L2 doesn't care if blk or red. Make sure there is 220vac (240vac) on the supply wires. If there is there is something amiss with the pump. Eric

If this is an ELECTRIC dryer, you're supposed to read 120VAC at both L1 and L2. With the cord UNPLUGGED, check the voltage across L1 and l2 at the wall receptacle. You should read a cumulative of 220-240VAC. If you're only getting 120VAC, the problem is at your receptacle, which would explain why the dryer is not heating. The heating circuits and timer require 220VAC, while the drive motor only requires 120VAC. If the power at the receptacle is good, leave the dryer unplugged and check the continuity of the power cord from the end of the plug at L2 to the terminal block at the back of the dryer. You should read a short or 0 ohms. If the continuity of the plug is good, the problem may be a loose connection at the terminal block or a broken wire. If the continuity is bad (open), then it looks like you may have a bad power cord. Please post back if you have questions. I hope this helps you.