At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
I don't service home models, only commercial products, however I would guess that something got wet somehow? Let it dry out for a few days and even a week or so, and then try it. If not, I would junk it and buy another... Susan REO
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
First, if the power cord is detachable, check the terminals where it plugs to make sure they are clean.
Second, look for a safety interlock button or tab that might have been released when you took it apart for cleaning (these are rare, but it is possible), and make sure it goes back the way it's supposed to when you reassemble it.
Third, take it apart again and see if a flat spade-shaped wire terminal is pulled loose from the switch or some other part. You should be able to trace a wire from the power cord to the breaker (reset button), from there to the power switch, from the switch to the thermostat (unless it is part of the switch), then two wires, one going to the heater and the other to the indicator lamp. The other (white) wire from the power cord goes to the indicator lamp and the heater. Sometimes wires break if they are overstressed during disassembly, so keep an eye out for this while you examine the circuit.
Fourth, find out how to use an ohmmeter to measure circuit continuity, then use it to trace down the break in the circuit (or get an electronics or appliance tech to do it for you).
Disassemble the pilot light tube and blow out with clean compressed air from a compressor. This should get rid of any residual water in there that is blocking the pilot light.
Also, check the thermocouple if so equipped to make sure its tip is in the flame once the pilot light tube is cleaned out.
id look in the right side groove and you will see a tiny microswitch that wont allow power to the element unless its sitting in the cradle I simply took the 4 screws off in the back of the heating element control and by passed it by connecting the 2 red wires and it worked so now I got to find the microswitch but at least I can use it
It should come out, because you may have to replace it one day. You may find the screws for it on the bottom side of the vat. Does it not have a spout at the bottom of it ?
Try to clean the pilot orfice,ive seen even though the pilot stays lit it doesnt have enough millivolts to energize the gas valve.Did you check the wiring really good?
I had a very simular problem. My fryer would do exactly as you described, but sometimes the pilot light would stay on until the burners tried to re-ignite and then it would go out.
I finally had to call the gas company. They took the pilot light apart and cleaned it. The fryer works perfect now.
Hope this helps!
Ken
I have a Rival Fryer Model CF250. Was working great for weeks, then after doing a few rounds of wings it quit. All lights were off and no heat.
I took the entire fryer apart and began testing connections for resistance, voltage, etc. They are very basic machines. It appears to me that my failure has to do with a diode, this particular diode sits protected by plastic and held by a srping mechanism, I assume it is the temperature sensor.
I assume that the completed circuit relies on this sensor so it being bad has made power quit.
×