I cant get my 1034d to sew blind hem stitch

Hm, if you talking of a blind hem foot, this indicates that one came with the Singer One.

1 ONE Singer Sewing

It appears your machine has a snap-on foot capability, so if that is the case, a snap-on blind hem foot should work.

http://www.sewingpartsonline.com/blindhem-foot-singer-006812008.aspx

Perhaps this video will help:

How To Sew Blind Hem Stitch 2

Unfortunately, after reviewing your machine's manual, your manual does not indicate that your machine provides a blindhem stitch. The blindhem stitch generally is a stitch that takes several straight stitches and then zags to the left to catch the garment fabric. You can, however, use a zig-zag. You will just have more stitches into the garment that may show on the right side.

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The 6217C doesn't have a blind hem foot. You need the General Purpose (low-shank) foot, the General Purpose Needle Plate and the blind hem guide (part number 381213). The guide gets secured by the screw that holds the presser foot shank. This site, http://cart.jennys-sewing-studio.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=473 , has the blind hem guide available. This metal foot might fit your machine: http://cart.jennys-sewing-studio.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=530_73_101_164_168&products_id=463 .

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells
(who has a similar blind hem stitch guide for my Singer Touch & Sew. I haven't gotten the hang of it yet.)

Have you found the blind stitch foot? On my Elna SU it has a piece of metal shaped a bit like a boat rudder in the middle, going front to back. Do you know which stitch does blind stitch? On my Elna it does two or three straight stitches and then one zig zag stitch. Make absolutely certain the needle is in the centre position before you start, if not, it will get expensive on needles! Fold up your hem and press it, and tack it into position. Blind stitch is a bit different, you need to position the presser foot so that the hem is on the right hand side of the paddle, and the "body" of the item is to the left. In order to do this, you need to fold the body of the fabric again (but don't press it or it will leave a line). I'd suggest a few practice runs first on scraps of fabric, so that you get the fabric positioned correctly. It will also take a bit of fine tuning to get the needle to just take a tiny bit of the body of the item. I found it a great stitch for things like curtain hems, and fairly heavy fabrics like tweed, because done properly it's far stronger than hand sewing and the stitch hides itself in the fabric, but I find it difficult to get it just right.

You need a foot like this one so you can guide the folded edge of the fabric hem along against the white plastic foot. This is a generic style snap on blind hem foot, your machine should have one in the accessories that looks like this if your machine has a blind hem stitch included in its functions.

You fold the fabric into a upside down Z shape and run the top folded edge along the white guide with the fabric under the foot, hard to explain but once youve done it once, it makes sense.

You need to select the stitch on your machine that looks like 3 small zigzags, then one bigger one, or 3 straight stitches, then one zig zag to the side. This is the blind hemming stitch. You'll possibly also have a blind hemming foot to use, which helps with guiding the fabric fold into the machine and keeping it even. But if not, you should be able to buy one from your Huskqvarna dealer or a generic one from www.sewingpartsonline.com may well fit.

You'd be best served by visiting http://sewing.about.com/od/techniques/ss/machineblindsti.htm for photos and intructions if you've never done blind hem stitching before.

Blind hemming works best when hemming straight edges of fabric such as a ruffle on a full skirt - if there is any curve in the seam, it gets much harder and the result won't look so good. In essence, you press the fabric hem up, then fold the hem edge back under so you have a "S' shape, then sew along the single layer with the folded edge sitting against the foot guide. Then when the machine takes the 4th wide stitch, the needle swings to the left and catches a small stitch into the upper folded layer, then back onto the hem. The trick is adjusting the stitch so that the wide stitch doesn't show much on the right side of the garment

here is a link to great info on sewing.about.com which explains this technique with images, http://sewing.about.com/od/techniques/ss/machineblindsti.htm

In brief, you need to fold the fabric to be hemmed into a Z shape with the wrong side hem edge at the bottom of the Z.

The Blind stitch is either three straight stitches then a wide zig zag which swings to the left and catches a little bit of the folded edge, or three small zig zags, then one wide zig zag to the left to catch one stitch into the folded edge. The zig zag style has a little more stretch in it so works good on jerseys and knits.
You need to use the blind hemming foot which helps you to line up the folded edge and keep it at a constant distance from the needle. It will look like this.
Turn the little silver screw to move the white plastic guide left or right until you've got just a smidgen of fabric being stitched by the left wide stitch. Always do a practice sample first to get the stitching and guide set right. On most machines you can vary the width of the big zig by adjusting the stitch width dial a little.

You need to adjust the blind hemming foot guide so that the needle is just catching a tiny amount of your folded fabric because this is the stitch which shows on the right side of the fabric when you unfold the Z. So forget trying to hem satin or expensive fabrics this way, a hand sewn stitch will give a much better finish.

Blind hemming works best on a hem which is continuously straight on the same grain line, its not great for a curved hem. So if you've got a tiered skirt or the frill on a bed valance, it is fine as the fabric edge to be hemmed will be a continuous straight length. You can use it on a slightly curved hem for jerseys as the fabric has more give, and patterns will help to disguise the stitching too.

I hope that this helps you to sew your blind hem, 4 thumbs up if so.

blind hem foot is good if you want to machine stitch a hem but not have a seam showing. it will have an adjustable piece you can move left or right with a screw. but blind hemming works best on straight grain and not on a curve like a skirt hem unless its a knit fabric that gives. to make a blind hem press the hem allowance up then turn the main garment piece back to form a Z shape. you then stitch along the hem side with your blind hem foot guidr running along the top fold and use the blind hem stitch which looks like three little zigzags then one big zig far to the left onto your folded piece taking a little 'bite' - this stitch shows on the right side when you press the top of the Z back flat. so you need to adjust the foot position and how wide the needle swings to minimise this stitch showing. hope this makes sense and helps you with your sewing.

If you want the bottom of the T to look like RTW with the double row of stitching, you cannot do this on a serger.

You can achieve the effect by using a twin needle, two spools of thread, bobbin and a straight stitch.

Make sure the double/twin needle will pass through the presser foot and opening in the needle plate below the presser foot.

Practice on a double layer of a scrap of the T shirt material as the tension may need to be slightly looser than the normal setting.

You can use a twin needle if you want the look of top stitching (like t-shirt).

For the blind hem, you need to baste the hem and then the fold so they do not shift as the machine stitches the hem.

I like to test each of these techniques by making a sample with the same fabric and adjusting length when using the twin needle or width and length when doing the blind hem.

Twin needle does limit the stitching to a straight stitch or a very, very narrow zig-zag - this has to be hand walked to be sure neither swing hits the presser foot or needle plate before stitching.

If you want to do blind hemming you need to find the stitch on your machine that looks like 3 small zigzags, then one bigger one, or 3 straight stitches, then one zig zag to the side. This is the blind hemming stitch. You'll possibly also have a blind hemming foot to use, which helps with guiding the fabric fold into the machine and keeping it even.

As the previous poster said, blind hemming is a little difficult to explain. You'd be best served by visiting http://sewing.about.com/od/techniques/ss/machineblindsti.htm for photos and intructions, getting a copy of a manual for your machine (if it doesn't have this stitch, then you're going to need to find another way) or getting a ibrary book out.

Blind hemming works best when hemming straight edges of fabric such as a ruffle on a full skirt - if there is any curve in the seam, it gets much harder and the result won't look so good. In essence, you press the fabric hem up, then fold the hem edge back under so you have a "S' shape, then sew along the single layer with the folded edge sitting against the foot guide. Then when the machine takes the 4th wide stitch, the needle swings to the left and catches a small stitch into the upper folded layer, then back onto the hem. The trick is adjusting the stitch so that the wide stitch doesn't show much on the right side of the garment.