Where is the end switch on gooodmanheater - Goodman GMS90703BXA Heater

It sounds like you have what is called a DPST switch (double pole, single throw) switch. A DPST switch will have 4 connectors on the back. This is opposed to the SPST switch (single pole, single throw) switch which will only have 2 connection points on the back.

A DPST is essentially like using one lever to open and close two different switches simultaneously.
Usually there are two connector points (screw terminals?) at one end of the length of the switch and two at the other end of the switch. The contacts open and close between one end of the switch and the other.

You can use a volt ohm meter with the meter set to measure ohms ( a measure of electrical resistance) to find out which terminals on the back of your switch are being switched.
When the meter reads either 0 ohms or a reading less than 1 ohm, it means the switch is turned on and current can flow between the two terminals you are testing.
I you don't have a volt ohm meter, you can use a small battery in series with a flash light bolt that will light up when you connect the extreme ends together. Once you prove the battery and bulb in series will light up by connecting the ends, take the two ends and connect them to your switch at two connectors you think are being switched on and off by the switch. if you are correct, the light bulb will turn on when you throw the switch. if you are wrong, the light will not turn on indicating you have not found one of the two circuits the DPST switch is turning on and off.

Step 1
Unplug the power cord from the electrical outlet
Step 2
Use an Allen wrench to remove the bolts on the console cover. Lift the cover and locate the safety switch. It will be in proximity to the key slot. Depending on the particular treadmill, the switch may or may not be attached to the console cover.
Step 3
Locate the wire leads on either side of the safety switch. Most often, the switch is enclosed in a housing and a pair of leads may attach to terminal posts on the housing. Remove the leads from the terminal posts by turning the brass screws counterclockwise with a small screwdriver. If the leads do not terminate outside the switch housing, use wire strippers to cut the leads close to the housing.
Step 4
Strip the ends of the switch leads 1/4 inch to expose bare wire. Twist the ends of the stranded wire tight with your fingers. This is necessary for a good contact. Cut a piece of insulated wire as a jumper bypass that attaches between the ends of the switch leads. Strip the ends of the jumper wire 1/4 inch and twist the stranded wire ends.
Step 5
Insert each end of the switch leads into an insulated crimp connector. Crimp the connectors with the wire strippers to secure the wires. Insert the ends of the jumper into the open ends of each crimp connector. Crimp the connectors with wire strippers.
Step 6
Wrap the jumper wire and crimp connectors with electrical tape. Continue the wraps onto each of the switch leads. Replace the console cover and reinstall the bolts that hold it in place. Plug in the treadmill power cord and press the "Start" button on the console to turn the treadmill on.
Things You'll Need
Allen wrench
Small screwdriver
Wire stripper
Insulated electrical wire
Crimp connectors
Electrical tape
Tips
Soldered connections can be used in place of crimp connectors. Refer to the owner's manual or solicit the manufacturer for a wiring schematic, if necessary. Use a similar gauge and type wire as the jumper bypass.

If you have found the switch, use a short length of 12 gauge wire strip 1/2 inch of insulation from each end and push ends into connector removed from switch. If this solves problem, replace switch and adjust as needed.

You have a broken wire to the coil or bad connections where it is not making ground when the switch is in the off "kill" position..it normally is the small black wire running from the off position on the switch to the front to the coil.check the connections one at a time.if ok then try to stop engine . Now disconnect one at a time the and test the coil end then the switch end or visa versa. using anything to jump or temporarily connect it to the coil or the switch just remember one end at a time...if nothing then disconnect both ends and check for continuity If none replace the wire if find the break and cut and splice.....good luck

There are many different kinds of carling switches.
Generally a carling switch has 2 or more screw terminals, consisting of the center-or-middle screw, and the screw-or-screws on end of switch
The middle screw is Common screw > this is where you connect Hot wire from circuit breaker or battery.
The wire going to load (light, fan, motor) connects to screw on end of switch.
In the case where switch has 1 middle screw and 2 screws on end of switch, the Hot connects to middle, and then Load wires connect to each end screw. When the switch is toggled back and forth, one of the end screws receives power, or the other end screw receives power.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

As you're looking at the switch side, the short end of the spring clips over the right end of the rocker. The long end clips into the rectangular hole at the other end of the switch housing.. The rubber piece will point to the rear.

Hi,

The case gives me hints towards the configuration register value which is not set to proper value, so the switch is not checking the the saved configuration in the config file.

Please do the below steps.
1. Log into the switch
2. Come to enable prompt
3. Typein the below commands
config t
config-register 0x2142
end
write memory

The find an example of the prompt and the commands below

Switch# config t
Enter configuration commands, one per line. End with CNTRL/Z.
Switch(config)#config-register 0x2142
Switch(config)#end
Switch#write memory


After this you can configure your switch as per your requirement and then save the config by typing write memory

Now you can reboot your switch and the switch will come up with the configuration as you set.

Best Regards

If you also have a standard copper cable (or a second fibre cable) connecting the two switches (for resilience perhaps?), this issue is probably being caused by something called Spanning Tree. This is implemented on switches as a 'loop avoidance' system, and can look like you have described with one end 'ip' and the other end no lights.

On the Cisco switch, get to a telnet/ssh/console session, log in and enter show spanning-tree and press enter.

have a look to see if the fibre interface has a status (sts column) of BLK. If it has, then this is called 'blocking' and will remain like that until you remove the second link to the other switch.

Hope that this has helped!

Hi, British Summer time hey! You can use the indicator stalk to access to menu.
Navigate your way to settings, the select the Clock option and set the time using the ricker switch, you can also format the clock to 12 /24 hour - enjoy!

Bash.

There are 2 3way switches. Usually one end has a wire going to the light, and the other end 3 way switch has the always on power coming in. Between the two switches are 2-wire travellers.

On the actual 3way switches;
2 screws are the same color and the 2-wire travellers go on these. The other screw is a different color -usually black. This screw gets the power on one end, and the switch leg to the light at the other end.