I installed the GXWH40L water filter. My repairman said now only hot water is coming out of my garden hoses. What happened?

Hot water heaters are a collector of sediment. The proper care includes flushing out the collected debris through the low side drain faucet. The problem is the faucet is not designed correctly to carry out the needed task. If you are handy... turn off the water and gas or electricity to your water heater. Relieve the water pressure through the temperature/pressure relief valve on the side of the water heater tank. Once pressure is relieved close the valve. Determine if you have a 1/2 inch or a 3/4 inch diameter drain valve hole in the side of the tank where the drain valve is located. The drain valve can be removed with channel lock pliers, an 8 or 10 inch adjustable wrench, or a small 8 to 10 inch pipe wrench. Water will leak out the threaded hole while the valve is out. If everything is closed maybe 2 cups of water will leak out of the hot water tank as you check drain valve thread size. DO NOT take your time checking thread size. After you know the pipe thread size go to the hardware store ( Home Depot, Lowe's etc) purchase a short nipple (1 1/2 to 3 inch depending on available space) and a ball valve (brass) due to the water temperature. You will also need a brass adapter for pipe thread to garden hose thread (male both ends). This adapter goes into the ball valve to allow for the connection of a garden hose. Connect the pipe and valve together using the correct pipe thread sealant and install in place of the original plastic drain valve. Install pipe to hose adapter using thread sealant. With the ball valve in place turn the water back on. Gas or electricity back on. Connect a garden hose to the ball valve. Place the other end of the garden hose in a safe area as hot water and debris will be expelled through the hose. With water on, Gas or Electricity on and the relief valve closed actuate the ball valve to the full open position for approximately 3 seconds then close the valve. Repeat the open and close of the ball valve three times. Observe the debris that emptied out of the garden hose. You may be surprised at what you see. If the water runs clear, disconnect the garden hose the task is completed. You can wait until the following year to repeat the process. Your pipe and valve are now a part of the water heater, they may remain in place. Put the hose away.

1) If leak is simple, then put garden hose cap over end of drain valve.
Pick up hose cap in garden department at home center or hardware store
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/garden-hose-thread-cap-76.jpg

2) Or install a garden hose and run to a drain until valve can be replaced.
The hot water will not last as long for showers until valve is fixed

3) If drain valve is cracked, it needs to be replaced.
If you are a DIY adventurer, then replace drain valve.
Since drain valve is plastic, expect to use every tool you can borrow when the plastic valve breaks off.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-water-heater-drain-valve.html

4) Call a plumber who will prefer to replace with new heater.

5) If you want adventure, then replace heater yourself and save $400 installation. Here in Houston 2011, electric heater costs 220 and gas 330 at local box store. Offer 10% less.
Open following link for gas installation, and use basic information for replacing electric.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-install-gas-water-heater.html

Good luck and Upvote the help.
And take advantage of fixya expert assistance live.
For a price, expert works with you while you work on timer or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

Check the micron rating on the filter. A typical filter will be 30-50 micron. If the new filters are a finer micron 5-10 these will reduce the water pressure significantly and plug up much faster. Also note if you have more sediment occurring. If on a well, hook a hose up to the drain at the well tank and flush the tank out to a floor drain, take note of any sediment, let the well kick on several times to flush completely.
RJ

If you have GATE valves on either side of the filter make sure the have opened all the way. They can become unscrewed and although it seems like it opened they gate can be almost closed. If the outside spigots are on hard water try the pressure there.
Water filters for pre-filter housings come in different micron ratings. They can be anywhere from .5 micron on up to 100 micron. The smaller the number the finer particulates it filters out and the faster it will plug up. Generally most filters used for residential households are 5 micron to 50 micron rating and the most common used are 10,30 or 50 micron. Try a 30 or 50 micron filter to see if it helps. But remember the larger the micron rating the more particulates pass through.
If there is a lot of sediment coming the well and building up in the bottom of the pre-filtet housing you may want to flush the well or consider having the well inspected by a well company. You could have a pinhole in the drop pipe that is letting sand in.
Run one of the outside spigots in to a clean white bucket, let the pump cycle several times and inspect for sediment in bucket, let it settle for about 20 minutes to see if excess sediment is coming from well. Have your water tested to see if the water chemistry has changed also.
RJ

This is proabably not the case but I have seen it happen, Have you checked the outlet side of the filter to make sure it was drilled when it was made. Thank you

http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHRpages/English/Troubleshooting/Tanklets/backflushing.html
The link above gives a list of reasons for the decreased water pressure at your faucet.

As for draining the tank, it sounds like it's clogged with sediment.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html

To open a clogged water heater:
Connect a washing-machine-hose to water heater drain valve.
Connect garden-hose to outdoor spigot, and to washing-machine-hose.
Turn on outdoor spigot for 10 seconds and it will open the clogged valve.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-will-not-drain.html

WOW!! It must really be clogged. Hook a garden hose up to that bottom valve and run a short burst of water through there. mabey that will break it loose

These replacement filters (GXRLQR) are FLAWED straight out of the factory. The problem is in the 2 little "teeth" nubs that stick up near the center circle of the filter. When the filter is twisted and inserted, these teeth push up on a tiny black spring loaded valve in the body of the filter, alowing water to pass through up and out the spigot. The flaw is that the "nubs" are too short and do not push open the spring valve far enough, reducing flow to a semi-trickle, even with a brand new filter. GE seems to think this is not a problem.

Solution=stick a $0.25 garden hose rubber washer in the top of the filter and screw it in. You may have to try a few times to get it to work and seat properly. When it works, you'll immediately get a nice super flow of water. Better than upgrading to a $200 filter system recommended by GE...

It sounds like there is quite a bit of sediment in the water. The filter you are using may be a very fine micron 5-10. Try using a 30-50 micron filter.
RJ

This sounds like oxidation from copper pipe.

First, I'd drain the hot water heater.

There is a drain on the tank for a garden hose. Hook up the hose, run it outside, open the valve. You should see the black water come out -- leave the water supply to the tank open so the water will flush through it -- I'd turn off the water heater breaker, so you don't waste the energy.

If this doesn't clear up the water, please let me know.

Charlie

P.S. Is your plumbing copper pipe? Have you checked the ph of the water?