"behringer pmp3000,5000" I'm repairing the

In my opinion, due to the physical appearance of pmp4000 and pmp3000 look the same, it will most likely also have a common circuit and parts list (at least, most).
Usually Behringer (and all the manufacturers), with the same series / sequence, using the same circuit, the difference is the number of channels only. You can compare the parts list on PMP3000 schematic, with your PMP4000.
PMP4000.

PMP3000


You can download from this link.
http://elektrotanya.com/behringer_pmp3000_sch.rar/download.html
Hope this helps.
Regards.

Voltage readings are normal. I don't know what you mean by dissapator? There are five separate heat sinks on the board. Which is heating? Is this with the load connected? If no load is connected none of the heat sinks should get hot. In regular operation with the fan running they may get warm. If no load and the big one is heating, then one or more of the three terminal regualtors has shorted. If the one with the big diodes near the 70 volt caps is heating, look for shorted surface mounted caps on the bottom of the board near the 70 volt connectors. If the heat sinks with the IGBT switchers are heating, look for a bad gate speedup surface mounted diode. It is unlikely the input diodee heatsink is heating.

Behringer is stingy about schematics... however here is one for their DJX700 which MAY have a similar power supply to yours:

http://elektrotanya.com/behringer_djx700-professional_sch.pdf/download.html

Scroll down to "get manual" and click to download... IGNORE other download links.
On page 9 near the lower right corner is the simple power supply, minus the transformer but showing the rectifier diodes, filter caps, and the three terminal regulators. These regulators have a thermal shutdown feature so if they seem to run VERY hot they might cause your problem. Common things are failing electrolytic filter caps. Behringer also uses switching power supplies in some gear and I have schematics of examples of those as well... but peak in your unit and see what type supply you have.

Oh yeah... know them well The IGBT transistors fail, the sand coated resistors blow open... replace as a pair. The driver transistors get blown... 2SA1020's and 2SC2655-Y's. One or more of the gate speedup diodes for the IGBT's get blown. The switching reg chips, IR2153 is usually gone. and more...

Here is your service manual: http://elektrotanya.com/behringer_europower-p0569_hca2400_sps1000_dpx_pmp-1280s_5000_sch.pdf/download.html

Scroll down to "get manual" and click to download. Ignore other "download links".

You will likely find that one of the power amps has shorted... been there, done that several times. Usually the channel A (rearmost) power amp shorts takeing out the 9140 Mosfets and other parts. Often an internal short between an interior and upper layer of the amp circuit board is the fault that causes all this. Use a light bulb (150 watt) in series with the power input when testing after repair. Use an isolation transformer when working on the supply for personal safety. When supply is running again, discharge the 70 volt source caps before plugging onto the amp to avoid welding arcs at the connectors. I have seen the supply hold charge for several days.

Behringer re-uses a lot of design... you might look at page 2 of this download:

http://elektrotanya.com/behringer_pmh100.pdf/download.html

Scroll down to "Get Manual" and click to download. On page 2 is the SPS400 power supply which is one of the smaller switching supplies they use. You may find the schematic is close, possibly they de-populate it as a smaller supply. When repaired, start the supply for testing with a 60 watt light bulb in series with the power input. Use an isolation transformer for troubleshooting for safety.

Try this link:

http://elektrotanya.com/behringer_xenyx_1622fx.pdf/download.html

On page 11 is the power supply. The TIP31 (T1) is the regulator for the +15 volt rail. The TIP31 is connected as a Darlington with a BC846 (shown on the schematic as "846"). This is a surface mounted tiny transistor.

NOTE: This regulator is NOT a voltage regulator but is actually an ACTIVE ripple filter consisting of the 2.2K resistor (R6) bypassed by the capacitor C4 (100mfd/25v). R8 (120 ohm) serves as a parasitic suppressor and base surge current limiter for the BC846 transistor (T4).

D3 is shown as a 1N4148 small signal diode... I hate to say it, but if that diode blew you have MAJOR damage to other part(s). The minimum, with D3 fried, is that C10 is shorted causing the problem. If that C10 is not shorted, then high voltage must have been applied to the ring from that input jack frying R5 (1K), R6 (12k), C7 (1 nf )and IC1 which is a 4580 op amp. By the way C10 is a 47 pf cap that is likely surface mounted and most likelly shorted..

DO NOT REPLACE THE FUSE !!! You will do more damage.

I just repaired one of these. A small ceramic surface mounted cap very near where the +/- 85 volt connectors plug onto the board blew up.

This left a sputtered mess on the insulating material at the right rear corner of the power supply.

The net parts list of parts I had to replace:

1. Main IGBT transistors on heat sinks. You have to remove the heat sinks to get at the mounting screws. 1MBK50D or equivalent. I used DigKey part APT28GA60BD15

2. One 1N4148 surface mount diode that is for gate drive speedup. D24 and D25. (don't remember which one was shorted)

3. All four driver transistors for the gate of the IGBT's. @ each 2SA1020 (PNP) and 2SC2655 (NPN). These are tall TO92-like transistors and I believe that at least one of these I had to get from Mouser.

4. Transistor T9, suface mount BC856B (PNP)

5. Replaced all four surface mount caps, one had exploded.
C50, C51,C54,C56. Replace with 0.01mfd/200 Volt 1206 style surface mount caps Digikey 478-1511-6

6.Replaced ceramic wire wound 10 Watt stand up resistors that were blown open. Replaced with 20 ohm design change. These slowly charge the main input filter caps and when supply is stable, a relay shorts them out. If you have replaced the fuse, you LIKELY blew them out. Original value was 10 ohms on some units. This was a Mouser part. 280-PRM10-20-RC

7. The 2153 switching reg chip IC1. This chip shorts. It is made by International Rectifier and I believe the full number is something like IRF2153. I had these in stock and not sure of which source I had procured them from... It was from one or the other.

Lots of destruction and one really needs a desoldering station to work this. Removal of the blown IGBT's is especially tough. All solder must be removed from the transistor leads AND the thermistor on one of the heat sinks. Once you have verified the leads are loose, one has to rock the heat sinks to get the tabs free. The tabs are NOT soldered! Be careful when restoring to get the thermistor leads started in their holes.

Note: ALL these repair parts were procured from DigiKey.com and Mouser.com. Neither of these places had all, I had to order from both. Mouser had the ceramic resistors.

When restarting this, leave outputs disconnected until it is running again. USE a series 75 watt light bulb in the 120 volt input. ONLY work on the unit using an isolation transformer as a large portion of this is connected right to the power line.

There is a small 15 volt switching supply that comes on first that runs the relay to short out the inrush limiting resistors. With the 2153 shorted as usual, this auxilary supply can't reach voltage enough to turn on the relay. The power for this is supplied through the ceramic resistors.

David,   I dont like to be the bearer of bad news, but Behringer dissolved its service/repair center years ago.  In my opinion, this indicates little faith in the profitability of servicing Behringer products.  If the manufacturer wont even repair their own products, I wouldn't buy or use that brand if I had a choice.  Their products are good, WHEN THEY WORK.  They keep their prices low by using inexpensive, disposable quality components.  Most of their products aren't worth repairing.      Here are a few options to find your power supply.  Try Rogue music in New York, NY.  Here is the web address.
www.roguemusic.com

Here is another resource.  DBM pro Audio is an authorized Behringer Repair Center.  They are also in New York.  They will be able to tell you if your part is available from Behringer.  I'm very sorry to inform you of the inferiority of Behringer products.  I think the truth, though it hurts sometimes, is the best teacher.  P.S. if you ever visit DBM... next to the elevator, outside DBM's office is a one yard dumpster, it is always brimming with the carcasses of unrepairable Behringer mixing consoles.      Remember, when buying electronics, you get what you pay for...cheap price = cheap components (and usually headaches down the line) Good luck!  I wish you success on finding your power supply.  Michael Mittelsdorf
www.dbmproaudio.com

See my profile for my qualifications. DBM does all my electronics repair.