Hello, I have an older Juki serger and it's great! BUT, lately I have been getting loops of thread on the underside, especially when serging thicker things, like sweaters. I have serged plenty of sweaters in the past without this looping problem. I have tried adjusting tension dials but it doesn't seem to help Also, it seems like the yellow, or 2nd needle isn't stitching properly. I have already made sure the threads are seated well. Any ideas? Thanks!!!

Most likely. Most overlockers can make a rolled hem. You will probably want to do a lot of practicing on scrap chiffon before trying it on the real thing. It involves using only one needle, both loopers, and making appropriate adjustments to the machine.

Serger 101 Threading the Juki MO 654de Machine for Roll Hemming by CKC...

How to Serge Rolled Hem

Serger Stitches 101 Cheat Sheet Never Ever Without It Your New Must Have...

Bernina has some very nice Serger Workbooks that could be helpful:
Bernina Mastery Workbooks

Hello Laura

Make sure that the lower looper thread is in front of and over the upper looper thread when threading the serger; when threading for overlocking.

Please let me know how this worked out for you
Happy serging

Hello Mary.
By the question, it looks like the lower looper is making loops? If so, check that you are using the correct needles for your serger and that the needle or needles is/are inserted correctly:
- needles must be all the way up into the needle shaft
- needles must face with the flat side to the back and the groove to the front
- use at least needle size 12/80, not smaller

Check these few items, if the loops are still not forming:
- re-thread the serger from the start, keeping in mind to thread in the proper sequence (upper looper, lower looper, needles)
- make sure that the lower looper thread lays on top of the upper looper thread and is passed to the back of the serger and then under the presser foot when threading
- make sure that the thread are securely engaged IN the tension assembly
- make sure that the serger is set for 3-thread or 4-thread overlock (i.e. that the upper looper converter is not engaged)
- check all tension setting
- stitch length should be around 2.5 - 3.5

Let me know how it goes.
Happy serging!

It's an odd thing but on my serger, it actually matters the order in which I thread it. I *try* to tie the new thread to the old and pull it through rather than re-threading, but when I've had to re-thread, I've had trouble getting it to loop again when I thread left to right. It seems that the loopers only loop if the right looper is threaded before the left.

Can you wind the lower cutting blade to the right to cut less fabric and therefore fill out the stitching? On most sergers the lower blade position can be adjusted sometimes with a little knob or dial. You need to raise the top blade out of the way first, usually you put pressure onto it to release the spring holding it up against the lower blade, then swing it up to do this. Then wind the adjustment on the lower blade and move it to the right to cut less fabric then test serge. Your manual should give you more specific information on this and should be your first 'go to".

I would adjust my looper tensions to suit the fabric and width of the stitch I'm trying to achieve so yes, the settings you've been given are average tensions but its okay to vary these too. From left to right, I'd set 4, 4, 4, 4 and test serge again and see if this pulls the looper threads in against the fabric if moving the blade hasn't tightened up the stitching.

Sergers are more variable than a straight stitch sewing machine so its okay to move tension knobs a bit, just turn each a half number each time you adjust, then test serge and look at the stitch formation. Your needles tension should be fine at 4, leave them alone.

I'd suggest if you can find one, go to a "Getting to know your serger" type class as there is lots of techniques such as seaming on a curve, turning right angles, both inside and outside and making rolled hem edges that are very helpful serger skills to learn along with making adjustments and troubleshooting. Or go to you-tube and search some of these techniques for videos. Also www.sewing.about.com is a great sewing resource and Debbie has pages on sergers/overlockers here too.

When I'm starting a new dressmaking project I will spend 10 mins on the overlocker/serger, changing the thread colour to suit the garment, then test serging and adjusting the stitch tensions to suit the fabric. I have 4 cones of thread each in white, black, beige, grey, pink and pale blue and these threads will give a suitable finish on most fabric colours and prints. Then there is wooly overlocker thread, this is a fluffy thread that you can use for rolled hems as the thread relaxes once stitched and "fills" out the closely stitched edge covering the rolled fabric edge and is another whole area of fun to try out.

Often I'll just use a three thread to neaten the raw edges of a seam I will press open. Or I will assemble a whole knit garment using the four thread stitch, so much faster then stitching seams, then neatening. Jersey knits and sergers are made for each other.

As an aside the D on your machine model would denote "differential feed" too - briefly differential feed is adjusting the amount that the two feed dogs move under the foot and means you can "hold back" the fabric as it is stitched (0.5), or "stretch" it out (1.5 or 2 setting). Really handy for loose weave fabrics that stretch as you serge them, you can compensate using the differential feed setting. And in reverse, you can create a "lettuce" or wavy edge by turning the differential feed up.

I hope that this helps you out with your Brother 1034D and hasn't just confused you. Good luck.

you might want to get a new thread or a needle
or try checking the functioning places by checking under

This video starts off a little ****, but expected if you have ever visited the Threadbanger site - http://www.metacafe.com/watch/1462325/how_to_use_a_serger_indie_pendent_designer_spotlight_thread_he/ Not your brand, but the same "serger basics". Lift the antenna to it's highest position. Set the tensions to zero. Have the presser foot up when threading. Raise the upper looper to it's highest position. Sergers are great little machines, but they can be nerve racking when it comes to threading. After years of threatening my old FunLock, I bought a Babylock Imagine with air-jet threading - what a relief!

You can download a free threading guide here - http://www.sewusa.com/Threading_Diagrams/Threading_Pages/Juki_Sewing_machine_threading/Juki_MO_644_Threading_Diagram.htm

The same site also sells manuals.

Threading Tips:

Have the thread antenna at it's highest position.

Set the tensions to zero.

Have the presser foot up while threading.

When you thread a serger for the first time, or if you are having a threading problem, use a different color thread for each guide. This can quickly indicate where the problem lies.

Once the stitch is satisfactory, change to the color you prefer - but this way is the easiest - cut the thread near the thread cone and tie off with the new thread. With the tensions at zero, slowing run the serger until the new thread appears. You will need to stop as the knots approach the needles and thread them by hand.

Do the tie-off before running out of thread and this will save a lot of time and stress.

Open the font of the serger and the instructions will be printed on the serger or on the door.

Raise the presser foot and set the tensions to zero when threading.

Turn the hand wheel so the upper looper (curved one) is at it's highest point and thread it first, and then the lower looper.

With some sergers you must thread in a certain sequence. This should be indicated in the instructions on the serger.

Set the tensions back to normal ( 4 - 6), lower the presser foot and run a length of stitching to see if the threads are knitted together as they should before you start serging your project.

With some sergers, but not many (singer 14u64 comes to mind), the top of the stitch will be an overedge that mates with the right needle thread, and the left needle thread will appear as a separate straight stitch. When you look at the underside of the stitch, the overedge will go all the way over to the left needle (the full width of the stitch). This is normal if you have this type of machine. Another stitch some sergers do (2/4 thread sergers) is a 2 thread chain thal looks like a lone straight stitch on both sides, and a 2 thread separate overedge.

As far as the threading of the takeup, it totally depends on your model. Always post your model number when you have questions as sergers vary greatly in design.