I have a Husqvarna 359 E Tech Chain Saw that dies when you go to accelerate. I have taken to a dealer many times and the problem stills exists. Can you help? Thanks

Husqvarna chainsaw fuel line check and replace - YouTube

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FyU_fG9qwc
Feb 6, 2012 - Uploaded by mweba1
359. ... Husqvarna chainsaw fuel line check and replace. mweba1. SubscribeSubscribed .... You will want to inspect the tank vent and fuel line.

Husqvarna common air leak - YouTube

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z7f9zNQTJBQ
Apr 11, 2012 - Uploaded by mweba1
Husqvarna common air leak ... Husqvarna 136 ChainsawCarburetor Rebuild & Fuel Line Repair - Duration: 22:39. by donyboy73 59,377 views.

Husqvarna 359 Professional Chain Saw Review

That depends on where you bought the saw. if in CA, there will be limiter caps on the adjustment screws that will limit how much you can turn them. The saw will have to be taken to an authorized Husky dealer.

Hi Stanley, 8 thou is the correct gap. regards Phil.

There is a special tool available, or you can insert a flat blade screw driver into one of the slots in the clutch centre ( they are designed for this ) and strike the end of the screw driver with a suitable hammer againt the compression of the saw, the jarring will eventually loosen the clutch, it is a left hand thread.

The ignition coil is attached to the spark plug cable.Also check the spark plug number for the chain model.As the chain get older you can put a cooler spark plug and try before change the coil.

Probably going to be a paired piston&cylinder http://www.ebay.com/itm/HUSQVARNA-359-357-CYLINDER-AND-PISTON-KIT-47MM-/140580138020
you will need to replace both.. remove your muffler and see scorched(black streaks) piston, fused rings. Remove air filter and carb to see scored cylinder wall(on hot side)

A link to an OM for a 2005 Husqvarna 357XP/359 follows (may not be your saw):
http://weborder.husqvarna.com/order_static/doc/HOUS/HOUS2005/HOUS2005_1150046-95.pdf
The procedure is on page 35.
CAUTION: It only has 3 positions; forcing it beyond the stops may render it inoperative.

If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. HTH & Good Luck.
Lou
Thank You for using FixYa.

This year alone we have replaced 17 carbs,,all warranty,,for this model alone do to the power valve failing.Inside the powervalve{valve jet} there is a very small disc that breaks apart thus not allowing the fuel to flow properly iside the carb.I would contact your local saw dealer and push for a warranty on your carb even if it's still not under warranty because the factory is well aware of this problem.If your carb has # 199 stamped on the side of it push for a replacement.

Remove the sprocket cover, bar, and chain. Find area where oil is discharged from case--is any part of the rubber seal damaged? Next, use compressed air to clean sawdust and dirt from oiler ports in rear of bar as well as the chain slot. Are you using motor oil instead of bar oil? Make sure there is nothing to prevent bar from making close contact with oiler port in case. Reassemble all parts and adjust chain tension.

Remove the chain brake cover and check the end of the crankshaft to see if there is a small hole for the roller nose lube gun that should have came with the saw. If so, inject a couple of pumps into this hole which will put grease into the bearing.

If no hole exists then you will have to remove the clutch housing from the saw which can only be done easily with an air or electric impact wrench. The nut comes of in the OPPOSITE direction (counterclockwise) that the nut rotates in when in operation - this should be very easy. Then remove the clutch housing which will expose the needle bearing and using your fingers smear the bearing with a small amount of light high pressure grease. Then replace the clutch housing and turn the nut in the opposite direction you used to take it off with your fingers until it is snug - then use the impact wrench in a very short burst to tighten the nut. Finally replace the clutch housing and/or bar and chain.

For a casual user this should only have to be done once a year as good quality chain oil can get into this area and provide some lubrication.