Maytag MSD2756DE Console

Center of the dash at the bottom. No console, remove the cover and replace it. Console, if it has side covers that pop off, go from the passenger side to get it. A bit more difficult, but you have to pull the console. Console is solid all the way up, pull the console.

It unscrews or if it is a newer model, remove the console so you can tip it forward. You will see a (usually black or white) pin in the center of the timer, pull it out about and inch and then remove the knob from the front by pulling it off the timer shaft. Check you new timer and make sure it comes with one. So did some did not. Good luck.

his may mean that the Xbox 360 has a hardware problem

Solutions
To resolve the problem, try disconnecting your console's hard drive. Here's how:
Xbox 360 E console

1. Turn off the console.
2. Unplug all accessories connected to the front or back of the console.
3. Position the console horizontally.
4. On the right side of the console, locate the hard drive cover release near the back of the console.
5. Slide the release diagonally (down and toward the front of the console) while pulling the hard drive door open.
6. Pull the tab to remove the hard drive.
7. Reconnect each accessory.
8. Close the hard drive cover before turning the console back on.

If the problem persists with the hard drive removed, you will have to get the console repaired
If there is no red light around the power button, reattach your hard drive.
If the problem persists only with the hard drive attached, order a new Xbox 360 Hard Drive

The timer (part number 33001624)is obviously stuck; fiddle with the knob a little bit to see if it will unstuck. Otherwise the timer must be replaced; disconnect power to the dryer prior to servicing to avoid the risk of electric shock.

Carefully lift the timer knob and dial off the timer shaft by pulling the knob away from the face of the console. Remove the timer dial skirt then remove the two timer mounting screws exposed.

Lay a piece of towel or cloth across the top cover of the dryer then remove the three screws securing the console rear cover plate across the rear top edge of the console. Grasp the top of the console then gently rock and roll it to the top cover of the dryer.

Remove the defective timer then install and secure the new one into position. Disconnect the wires from the defective timer and connect it to the new timer one at a time to prevent messing up the wires. Push in the timer knob into the shaft then reinstall the console in place. Roll the console back into an upright position to engage the locking feet into the slots in the top of the cover and secure it with the screws.

Removal of the front panel requires the removal of the top cover and the console. Disconnect power to the dryer prior to servicing to avoid the risk of electric shock.

Remove the 2 screws attaching the top cover to the rear of the dryer then slide it rearward to clear the screw head from the top cover flange and lift the cover off the dryer cabinet.

Remove the screws securing the heater PCB board and disconnect the black and white wiring harness connectors from the board.

Remove the four screws attaching the console to the washer cabinet and rotate the console down to remove it from the dryer.

Remove the four screws attaching the top of the front panel to the cabinet and the two screws at the bottom of the door opening.

Pull the front panel forward and disconnect the interior light wiring harness then lift the front panel off the tabs across the bottom and move it away from the dryer.

Reinstall the front panel, the console, and the top cover in reverse of the removal steps.

It must be the timer that is causing the control board or "computer", as you call it, to shut the cycle down, especially when the machine shuts off at almost exactly the same point in the cycle. The control board energizes the timer motor and monitors changes in the timer inputs. It will open the power supply line relay and shut off the machine if the timer inputs do not change within 5 minutes of continuously energizing the timer motor. It means the timer motor is stuck or the timer internal cam is broken at the point where the machine shuts off. Replace the timer (part #22002867) to fix the problem.

Disconnect power to the washer and remove the three screws securing the console's rear cover plate across the console's rear top edge.

The console has six locking feet that secure it to the top cover. Gently rock the top of the console forward then push the bottom of the console toward the back of the machine to release the locking feet from the slots on the top cover. Once the locking feet are released, remove the timer knob by pulling it off the console; lift the console then flip it forward onto the top cover to access the timer.

Disconnect the timer wiring harness then remove the timer mounting screw.

Lift the timer locking tab near the end cap and slide the timer toward the end cap to release the timer retaining tabs from the slots in the console. Lift the timer off the console then install the new timer.

Align the three tabs of the timer with the slots on the console then insert the tabs into the slots.

Lift the locking tab slightly then slide the timer back into position until the locking tab can engage with the slot provided in the console. Secure the timer with the mounting screw then reconnect the wiring harness.

Reinstall the console by lining up its six locking feet with the slots on the top cover. Insert the locking feet into the slots then rock back the console into position. Secure the console's rear cover plate across the console's rear top edge with three securing screws.

The font panel must be removed. This may be done by removing the control console (open upper cabinet doors to find screws behind the console). After you remove the control console, the screws along the top of the lower front panel are easily accessible. Disconnect the two interlock switches, remove the grounding clip attached to the bulkhead & lift the panel off the two lower clips. Inside the panel is the housing that leads to the exhaust blower. Just clean out the mess & reverse the process to replace the parts.

Looks like it is pretty easily removed.

Use a small screw driver and pry open the garage door opener storage bin. You will see 1 screw there that you will remove.
Pull the front of the overhead console down and remove the console from the console retaining clips.

its possible the ir board what could be faulty, your best best is to try and get one from ebay or on the net and replace it and see if that cures the problem. to remove the ir board simply take off the case then get a t8 screwdriver and on the front of the console clip off the small plastic cover and there is 3 screws holding this to the casing. remove them and pull off the ir board and replace it. put the console back together then try it again

hope this helps
www.fixmyconsole.co.uk

sounds like the adaptive defrost controller part number 61005988. not to bad to repace, the top control panel is removed by pulling down on both rear corners ( youls find little finger holes across the top rear panel to free and pulll foward, the n there are 2 1/4in screws across th efron of control, and 2 phillips head screws jus behind each light bulb, one last 1/4in screw directly on back wall will drop entire panel adn after that youl see the control in the right hand corner unplug the old replug the new . DISCONNECT POWER PRIOR TO REPAIR<