WHAT speaker distace & delay .sitting and Db in my AVR AS MY ROOM SIZE

Hello Ursella Thompson,

Absolutely no information came through with your question about... Room air-conditioners (make/model/size)...

Which is actually okay because those calculations...

immediately become quite complex MORE BECAUSE OF THE ROOMS (& your climate) than the air conditioner.

The size of the room... height... INSULATION.number of windows (fenestration) & doors (their relative insulation, composition & size... drapes, shutters. blinds, shades... storm doors (all kinds of considerations).

Sadly... if you are interested in a "cheap" air-conditioning solution
this is the area where the cheap immediately becomes EXPENSIVE...

I personally hate having strangers in my house... but this is and area where getting a "utility ENERGY assessment" might be a good idea...

Then when you are assured your house is as good as REASON/FUNDS will allow...

THEN get estimates from A/C Vendors...
or
Hire an actual ENGINEER to get an idea of what your air-conditioning requirements are..?

Check the internet: you will be presented with an array of sheets, formulas... magic tricks..

It is important to know it is a CRITICAL DESIGN consideration... and has its on field of ENGINEERS.

Hope this helps


http://www.bing.com/search?q=air+conditioning+calculator&src=IE-SearchBox&FORM=IENTSR&pc=EUPP_

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If there is room, you can change sizes. It's easier just to keep the same size and just get better speakers because certain door speakers require specific spacing and room for the magnet of the speaker to hit and retract effectively. But after upgrading to good speakers, you may want to run them thru an amp to get the full potential of the door speakers. If you hook it up thru your head unit it will be 50 watts max to each speaker usually.

That depends on the third dimension.

Imagine trying to put stuff into a room that's 10 feet by 20 feet. You can put more stuff into a room with a 12-foot ceiling than you can into the same-sized room with a 10-foot ceiling.

place your subwoofer approx 1m or 3 feet away from your media player, then one speaker below your TV, the other two in either corner in the front and the other two in either corner at the back of the room. try not to mount them too high, approx 3 feet off the ground or the same hight as your head when seated. this will give you the best sound quality. if the speaker is the front or back seem a little far you should be able to set the volume on each of them. if the back is further than the front then set the back speakers louder than the front ones or vis versa.

You are PROBABLY driving it too hard and the thermal cutout is activating. This is only a 12 inch speaker and should comfortably fill a 20 foot square room. If *********** could not stay in such a room, you are playing it too loud. Try reducing the volume by 3 DB and see how long it stays on. The specification on MOST of these powered speakers and speakers and amps in general are victims of "specsmanship"... that is false advertising to make sales. This size speaker is NOT applicable to outside venues for the most part. You could also try putting a fan blowing on the heatsink to keep it cooler as that might help.

Usually delay is associated with "reverb" not echo. If you are in a large room, the room acoustics can add reverb without the benefit of signal processing.

Reverb NORMALLY passes the inout signal as is and then adds in a delayed version on top.

The delay should be less than the room size delay.

Try turning off all effects as a start. There is some "transport" time if it goes through a digital signal processing.

My Pioneer VSX-36TX (circa 2002) does the same thing. Modern AVR's count up from minus something to 0db and go just a few db higher into 'plus' territory. It seems arbitrary but that's how it is.

Ask yourself this: who ever really turned the volume knob up to maximum on any amp on purpose, and had speakers survive it? In other words, why have all that capacity on a potentiometer if you never use it?

Little known fact: With that in mind, Bose Corp actually designed a product that intentionally used the full physical travel of a volume control - the Bose Acoustic Wave Music System.

Only receiver that is better is one that has features that you want and need and do not currently have! Period. Unless you are an alien you cannot hear frequency response differences nor distortion on pure harmonic waves unless it exceeds 6%. My old stuff is still better than anything currently available - may not look as pretty but .........Other than that, the only really valid reason for another receiver is that you need more power because you like to blast and also add bass. (Every time you increase bass by 3 db you are making receiver put out twice the power at that frequency! 6 db is 4x, etc.) But spend your money - you are not going to get anything any better than your Denon - And if you want more power doubling the output in rms only increases the volume by 3 DB, the smallest difference that the human ear can detect. So if your receiver is rated 50 watts you get one with 300 or more to get any real increase in volume. Capiche?

The ideal height would be between 38" and 42". with your stand being 42" high I would say 45" would be fine. Anything over 50" off the floor will put strain on your neck and give you constant headaches after watching for extended periods of time.