Original problem:
Laura ran the self clean for around 3 hours the
other night. Next use the oven bake and broiler elements won't heat
up. Front panel shows no error codes, lights come on, fan comes on,
temp sets fine .... still no heat.
Shorted the oven shutdown thermal fuse as a bypass .. still no heat.
Used
the ohm meter to check the components listed in the owners manual.
Walked through the "control panel test locations table" with the meter.
Most things checked out just fine - temp sensor, blower, oven light,
bake element - all fell within normal resistances.
One problem:
owners manual describes 2 broil elements (inner and outer), but our oven
only has one. Resistance showed 18.6 ohms for our single broiler
element. Manual says each inner and outer broil element should have 45
to 55 ohm resistance. Does this mean we need to replace the single
broiler element to repair this oven?
hey good job so let me ask you when you checked resistance did you remove all wiring from the element before checking it and did it tell you the different ohm readings that the temp sensor will show at different ambient temperatures?
Didn't remove the wiring, took readings with all wires still connected. Manual says oven temp sensor should be 1080 @ 70 degrees F.
To get the correct ohm readings on any electrical device you must remove at least one of two wires but to be safe you should remove both wires to obtain the correct readings.
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Turn the breaker off for 5 minutes then turn it back on see if this helps if not let me know.
Glad you got it working thanks for sharing the solution with us.
What is the difference between unplugging the stove and turning off the breaker
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SOURCE: Whirlpool RBS305PDQ11. After self-clean, oven won't heat up.
This seems to be a common problem with these ovens. The oven got too hot and the tco (Thermo cut off)tripped. This will have to be replaced. It is located behind the control board.
SOURCE: oven won't heat
There is a design problem with certain model Whirlpool ranges where the thermal fuse blows during self-cleaning (auto-clean). This may be because of inadequate insulation, causing the outer panel to overheat. When the thermal fuse is replaced, the range will work, but it will blow the next time auto-clean is done. To safely work around the problem, the thermal fuse may be replaced with a thermostat, which will reset itself once the oven has partially cooled off. If the part number of the thermal fuse is 9759243, it will blow at 120 deg C (248 deg F). This can be replaced to a Selco Part# SES-L250 thermostat. The terminals are perpendicular (90 degress), so they have to be bent to 30 degrees for the wires to fit behind the back panel.
Selco part# SES-L250 specs:
Surface Mount
3/4 in. disc
120/240 VAC
25 A
SPDT
open on-rise (normally closed)
open (cut-out): 250 deg F
close (cut-in): 220 deg F
temperature differential: 40 deg F
Info: http://catalog.selcoproducts.com/item/3-4-disc-thermostats/surface-mount-automatic-reset-open-on-rise/pn-5113?&seo=110
Available: Selco distributors: http://www.selcoproducts.com/distributors.php
and online at
Allied Electronics http://www.alliedelec.com
If the Selco SES-L250 'surface mount' thermostat is not available, an 'airstream type' thermostat can be used with a few differences:
1) I recommend to replace it to a 240 or 230 deg F thermostat. The reason for the lower cut-out temperature is that an 'airstream mount' thermostat will not be flush with the back panel, as is the original 250 deg F 'surface mount' one, so it may cut-out at a higher (unsafe) temperature.
2) I recommend to add Heat-sink compound between the thermostat and the sheet metal. This is used for computer processors and is available at computer and electronic component stores.
3) An 'airstream type' thermostat is thicker than the original 'surface mount' one, so longer screws will have to be obtained. The sheet metal tabs on the thermostat will bend slightly when installing.
4) The terminals are perpendicular (90 degress), so they have to be bent to 30 degrees for the wires to fit behind the back panel.
Recommended 'airstream type' thermostats:
Supco L240
Info: http://www.supco.com/images/pdfs/2009%20HVAC%20Caralog/2009%20Catalog%20for%20Web2.pdf
Available: http://www.appliancefactoryparts.com/applianceshvac/supco/crossref/thermostats2.html
Selco SE-L240
Info: http://catalog.selcoproducts.com/item/3-4-disc-thermostats/ts-3-4-disc-se-series-airstream-mount-open-on-rise/pn-5096?&seo=110
White-Rodgers 3L01-230
Info: http://www.white-rodgers.com/wrdhom/pdfs/06_Cat_pages/Cat_06_pg0092.pdf
General Electric LS2-240
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The problem was the thermal fuse. Bypassing the fuse did not work. We bypassed it; but, the oven still did not heat up. Repair guys came and replaced it ($190.00) and the oven works fine now. My advice - don't run the self clean on these ovens - it will blow the fuse. If you do run the self clean and your oven will not heat up try replacing the fuse yourself (it's about a $65 part).
We replaced the oven thermostat but still does not heat up. The coils have no hot spot marks and all intact.
Are different brands of stoves affected differently, mine was a Kenmore brand.
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