Gas Imperial Griddle Snap Action ... does not light via pilot (electric ignitor). Gas is on, and unit has power. Ignitor is clicking, so switch is ok. Unit does not fire with manual flame, so it would appear no gas is coming thru the gas valves but all 5 valves (5 burner unit) couldn't have gone bad at the same time. My initial diagnosis aims at the flame switch or gas pressure regulator. Any thoughts and/or helpful hints?

never heard of having a pilot light as well an ignitor, the two don't go together. If your have a pilot light that is on the unit is getting gas. If there is pilot light there is usually a knob to switch between pilot light, off, and active on. maybe set to pilot light only.

if it has a pilot light, then it would not have an ignitor. also if it has a pilot light, it should have a knob that has settings for just the pilot light, just off, or on. Find that knob and check settings

check the ignitor if this unit has one...have a volt meter ready.unplug unit and unplug the ignitor place the leads to your meter in the ignitor molex plug one lead in each hole of the molex plug. turn the unit back on with power restored the small enducer draft motor should come on and then activate the pressure switch which has a hose connected to it. once it activates should send power to ignitor ..fi you are getting power but the ignitor is not glowing when connected then you have a bad ignitor. you did not post model mut if it is gas unit it will have either a ignitor or a pilot assembly... if it is a pilot assembly repost and one of us will be glad to walk you through checking it...good luck to you

This range has a standing pilot light for the top burners and griddle top. If you look through the small hole under the flat top griddle you can see a small line about 1/4 inch that runs from the main gas manifold to the pilot light about 6 inches back under the griddle top. You will need a tightly wrapped piece of paper or a long match or small wooden stick, like a chop stick. Light the end of your paper, or stick and put it through the hole all the way to the pilot light. It should catch on fire. Whenever the main gas line is on, the gas will flow through the pilot light. If it will not light, there is a pilot light adjustment that is a very small screw in the middle of a 1/2 inch square metal fitting that is screwed into the gas manifold. If the pilot won't light, this screw may be turned all the way in, thus cutting the gas off to the pilot light. If necessary take a very small flat blade screw driver and turn the screw counterclockwise a half turn. That will increase the gas flow to the pilot light. Another way to light the pilot is to put your burning stick or match into the hole near the burner under the griddle plate, then slowly turn the heat valve to the on position. The main burner will light and then the pilot will light off of it. Don't get your face too close to the griddle when you light it, gas can flash back into your face.

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Put a torch on the probe. If the flame comes on them the thermocouple is weak.If nothing at all replace the safety valve.That is if you have a standing pilot. If you pilot is an electric one then it should be so bright it is hard to look at but if it is dim orange it is weak.

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The gas valve operates on "passed through" electricity from the ignitor - if you have a marginal ignitor, then the valve will give you problems. Intermittent problems are the worst to diagnose, but the way you are describing it, my first action would be to replace the ignitor. If it doesn't work after that, then try the valve, but be prepared for the price tag cause it's kinda scary. Good luck.

A pilot light and a ignitor do the same thing. no unit would have both.

Perhaps you are confusing the thermo-coupling for an ignitor. An ignitor (glow plug style) is ceramic with a conductive coating on the end powered by electricity supplied by two high temperature coated wires that connect to the oven controller.

A replaceable thermo-couple looks like a copper tube with a elongated bulb at one end and a fitting at the other. The bulb is placed in the pilot flame and the fitting screws into the gas valve.

I am looking at a exploded diagram for the model number you listed. The unit uses a "safety valve" with the thermo-couple incorporated into it. To see the exploded view, click here If
you are asked for a model #, use CPL1100ADW. In section 2, gas controls, Diagram location 17 is the safety valve. Click on the part photo for a better view of the valve.

If you have any questions, let me know. Hope this gets your unit up and running again.

Please take the time to give this solution a fix ya rating,

clarkco

Sister, there is no pilot light on this model. Sounds like you have a bad ignitor, however the F7 code shows as a bad touch pad membrane. d7 must represent how many times this fault occured, although Im not finding anything that shows a d7 code. Try resetting the board by killing power to the range for about a minute. After turning the power back on press the COOKING TIME, DELAY START AND NUMBER 8 PADS ALL TOGETHER. The words test should be displayed. Now you are going to energize the bake circuit; press the bake and start, you should hear a click, this is the bake relay on the board. By holding the start button in you are energizing the ignitor (glow bar) in the oven. If you do not hear the click, suspect the control board. If you do hear the click and the ignitor is not glowing, you have a bad ignitor. Have someone with you to verify the ignitor is glowing when you are holding the start button in. To exit the test, just push CLEAR/OFF key pad. Catriver...post back