Hi, I am replacing the defrost timer on my fridge ED25RFXFW01 (new part number #482793) and it has a black wire that needs to attached to one of the terminals before you reattach it to the wiring harness. Can you tell me what terminal (#2, #1, #3 or #4) that I need to attache the black wire to for my specific fridge. Each terminal depends on what type of unit you have and I don't know specifically what terminal to use. Can you help me? Thanks, Craig ED25RFXFW01

All Frost Free or Frost-less Refrig's. utilize a defrost heater controlled
by a PCB or Electro-mechanical Timer. The current also must pass
thru a over temp thermostat we call a Defrost Termination T-stat,
which is used to regulate how much heat is applied to
the evaporator to melt that "Frost" you see.
The number you indicated is not the MODEL number.
Simply look inside the fresh food compartment's side interior wall
for the Mod. & Ser. #s.
I would check the Defrost Termination T-stat first. Assuming this is
a Whirlpool Corp. unit look for a round 1 inch. disc at the top right of the evaporator with a PINK and Brown wire attached. With the Complete Fridge disconnected from the wall power. Start by following the 2 wire to the Main Disconnect Block somewhere on the rear wall. Remove and test for continuity or a closed circuit. Remember circuit opens above
60 Degrees F. Second check Heater Circuit for continuity. Heater
is the "Black' element surrounding the edges and along the bottom.
If both parts check OK replace the Defrost Timer or PCB as
installed..

The part number for that timer should be 482493. I'll venture to say that the black wire is throwing you off. Look at the timer, the pins to be exact, and notice how they are numbered. The black wire slides over pin 3. Once that is done cycle the timer slightly by turning the grey wheel looking thing in the middle. The reason is because the timer comes set in the defrost position and sometimes if not advanced they never come out of it. After this plug it in where the old timer was and plug it in. The machine should kick on and you'll be good to go.



If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

First, you have locate the defrost timer which may hidden behind corners of the fridge at the back bottom, in some models located in the ceiling of the fresh foodsection or behind the cold control cover. Once you locate the defrosttimer, slowly turn the screw like wheel in the middle of the defrost timer witha straight screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. Now it's in defrost. Ifthe defrost heater(s) starts, replace the defrost timer and defrostthermostat. If the heater(s) does not start, unplug wire cord to check ohm test for continuity of heater. If continuity is there, plug cord wire which gives power 120volts (check specification) to heater. If heater no starts, bypass defrost thermostat by join the 2 wires in thedefrost thermostat. If the heater now comes on, replace the defrost timer anddefrost thermostat. If the heater itself is bad, replace it. Thanks and hope helpful.

Hello,

The problem is the defrost timer you just replace on your refrigerator, you will need to check the ratings on the broken defrost timer to ensure it matches the ratings on the present defrost heater on your refrigerator, beside, you will need to test the continuity on your present defrost heater to see if the voltage rating is ok, because, if it can be tripping the breaker off while it kicks into defrost mode signify that the present defrost heater is not compatible with your refrigerator, it is either it is not well wired or fixed, and if it is, then, it means the defrost timer voltage rating is low compare to the former, you will need to get exact specification as the the broken one.

Take care.

Hi, you have to check few things, first of all check power at the outlet for 120 volts. If the light in the fridge works, the defrost timer, cold control and possibly the wiring are the most common things that can make a fridge sit there and be dead, not working.
The defrost timer might be stuck in defrost, turn the timer screw to advance the timer and if the fridge comes back on, replace the defrost timer. You can join the wires together to by-pass the cold control for a test, if the fridge comes on, replace the cold control...

Take care

Replacing the heater is not too big of a job. Unplug the refrigerator, remove the rear panel in the back of your freezer. Sometimes the ice maker and some of the shelf brackets need to be remove to be able to get the rear panel off. Then down below the evaporator you will see the old defrost heater with wires attached on each end. Disconnect the 2 end wires and look at how the old defrost heater was attached. You need to reattach the new heater on this holder or bracket depending on your model number. Put the new heater in and tighten the 2 wires on each end securely. Replace the rear panel and you're good to go. Thanks, Sea Breeze

hello sir

This is a Solution posted by a guy called Sandy Small in october 2005 and believe or not it works

Repair to Bosch fridge freezer KGV3104GB

This MIGHT be the same as yours!

Detach top panel above fridge door and "hinge" it down towards you attached to its connecting wires. See if the connector on the right has a thick black wire (nearest the fridge) and two brown wires. The faulty fridge temp. sensor can be shorted out by connecting the black wire to the brown wire next to it. I managed this by bridging the corresponding points on the PCB with a blob of solder. My fridge freezer works OK now on the freezer sensor. Hope this works with yours!

Sandy

failedcompressor start relay or bad commpessor

It won't be the defrost timer, unusual, it will be the defrost element inside the freezer section behind the back panel or a shorted defrost klixon.