Saw will not run or start...set ignition module gap, disconnected kill switch wire because there was no spark...Put in new spark plug, got spark..Primed for gas and set choke as per instructions...Would not start....Tried either to get it to fire, would not start...Did compression test, got 60 lbs. on first pull, 90 on second

One wire is ignition module kill (primary of a magneto) and the other is ignition module frame (engine block).

The two wires run separate to the kill switch which is a momentary single pole.

Assuming you have read other posts here about air gap and have it set approximately correct, the next thing to do is disconnect the cutout wire from the coil (small wire with spade connector). When you hit the kill switch, this wire is grounded to the chassis of the saw, which prevents the ignition coil from generating a spark. Often, the insulation on this wire can fail, allowing the wires to short against a metal part, or the kill switch may be faulty.
If you have spark with this wire disconnected, check the wire itself for any breaks. If it looks good, then the only thing left to check is the switch.
****Don't try to start and run the saw with the wire disconnected, because if it starts, you'll have no way to stop it****

anon re connect the kill switch. If this fail try connecting the two ends of the wire to the kill switch together.

the plug may be bad. check for spark at the end of the plug wire about 5mm or so away from cylinder. check gap between module and flywheel [where magnet is] gap should be no more than the thickness of a business card. pull kill wire off module and check for spark. if no spark replace module. if you follow the steps above and get spark check the ground wire and switch. hope this helps you out. ryan

Remove the spark plug and test for spark. If nothing, try a new plug set to 0.020" gap. If ok, put a small mount of fuel mix in the plug hole and try to start. If you get several pops, then check the fuel filter, air cleaner and muffler for plugging. Check the fuel lines for rot or damage. Make sure to use fresh fuel premix (40:1) using modern synthetic saw oil in it's own can and shake thoroughly just before filling each time. If you got no spark in the first test, expose the flywheel and ignition module. Remove the wire from the module that goes to the ignition switch and check for spark. If still nothing, replace the module using a thin business card for a gap gauge between the module poles and the flywheel magnets. If you did get spark, then investigate the ignition switch and wire for possible grounding. Hope some of this helps!

The first thing to check for is spark at the plug. Remove it and reconnect the wire--lay the plug body on the cylinder head or other metal part. Pull the engine through--the spark should be blue and snappy. If nothing, make sure the ignition switch is set to run and try a new clean plug. If still nothing, you need to check the ignition system. Go to: searspartsdirect.com and enter the complete model number of the saw (minus the decimal point). A series of drawings will appear, select the ignition layout. If this is a newer saw, the ignition will be a self-contained module mounted just outside of the flywheel. The first check before buying a new module is to remove the grounding wire that goes to the switch, and try to get spark again. If still nothing, and the pole gap between the module and the flywheel magnets (set with a thin business card for a clearance gauge) appears to be correct, order a new ignition module. Once you get spark, the other major problem is usually the fuel system. Hope this helps!

Not common, but it can happen to any saw over time. Try a new plug first and recheck--make sure the ignition switch is set to run. If still nothing, remove the case on the flywheel side to expose the flywheel and ignition module. Check the module pole gap to the flywheel magnets with a thin business card. If ok, remove the ignition switch wire from the module and recheck spark. If now works, check the wire and switch. If still nothing, time for a new module. Hope this helps!

Look for a pinched/bare stop-switch wire (I assume that you don't have spark now). Also, check the ignition coil core gap to the flywheel magnets (I use card stock to set the gap). Make sure the plug wire was not damaged again.

the air gap should be .012", the gap you have it set at is to small.reset the gap and try it again.......hope this helps,let me know........

Hi Mark,

The engines used on the Powermates have a low oil shutdown system that can be troublesome. Try this:

1 - Make sure there is enough oil in the crankcase. The oli level needs to be all the way up to the bottom of the threads in the oil fill hole.

2 - Still no spark? Replace the spark plug with a new one (properly gapped), then spray something like brake cleaner into the carb. Pull the rope and see if you hear any detonations from the engine. If the engine tries to start but won't you need to look at the fuel system, then the ignition.

3 - If you proved there isn't any spark happening, look under the plastic cover where the kill switch is located. You'll find a small metal box with wires coming out of it. Find the wire that goes from the box to the kill switch and disconnect it at the switch. Mark things as needed so that you'll remember where to put them back. Give the rope a gentle pull and see if we have a working ignition, if it does have spark there is something wrong in the low oil shutdown mechanism.

4 - If you've convinced yourself that the low oil shutdown is misbehaving try changing this oil and flushing out the crankcase. Look for any evidence of debris that would have made the oil level float bind. As a final test reconnect the wire we took off the switch and disconnect the one that goes from the module to the oil sensor on the side of the engine, if you don't get a spark with the sonsor disconnected you probably have a bad module.

5 - If we didn't get ignition with the low oil shutdown disconnected from the kill switch, reconnect the wire we took off and then disconnect the (usually black) wire that leads down inside the engine. This is the kill wire for the ignition module. If you get the engine to start with this wore disconnected you may have a shorted kill switch, test it with an ohm meter.

6 - if there still isn't a spark with the kill wire disconnected you may have a bad ignition module. You have to take off the carb, then the blower housing to get to it. Check that the kill wire isn't shorted to the block anywhere, and that the module has the proper gap and orientation before replacing it, The modules say "cyl side" on the side that should face into the engine. A regular business card or a playing card ought to just fit between the magnet on the flywheel and the module, too loose would cause a loss of ignition. You get extra points if you use a feeler guage to set the gap to 0.010 inches.

7 - Ignition modules are available from a bunch of different places, your local Briggs supplier will want to know the model, type, and code numbers located on the side of the valve cover in order to be sure which parts you need,

Rate me if you liked the answer,
Carl