Regarding Little Einsteins riding car..I want to remove the rear plastic "brake" that prevents the unit from going backwards. Help

rubber smell is rubber belt burning
lock up could be stuck park brake

When the brake is locked it will prevent you from pressing the motion pedal. The brake lock is located on the plastic panel beneath the steering wheel. If its stuck and wont release then use one hand to fiddle the brake pedal and use your other hand to pull the brake lock tab out. A little lubricant on the rod and lock will help in the future. Once the brake pedal is released, if the brake is still sticking, lube the pins in the brake caliper. Locate the caliper on the right side of the tranny just in front of the axle. You will see a round disk half covered by a block and a bracket with a spring and rod. Use a penetrant lube and soak the block covering the disk on the disk side.Then grab the bracket at the spring and push toward rear of mower to release the brake and work the brake a few times till the 2 pins in the caliper free up.

With mower in neutral and the brake released you should be able to freely move the mower by hand. If the mower still wont drive after that then the brake is not your problem.

Part of the main harness. Once the wires leave the multi-function's harness connector, the wires go everywhere.
So the wires are pulling out backward out of the plastic connector? There is a feature on the wire terminals to keep them in place on a connector and not let them slip back out. A tiny little metal clip on top of the wire terminal is raised just enough that when the terminal is inserted into the plastic plug, the clip will ride over a bump in the plastic, then be raised enough that when pulling on the wire from the back, the clip will prevent wire from being pulled out. Look at the loose wires and find that little metal clip (on the top of the terminal pin), bend it up and try re-inserting the wire into the plastic connector. When it slides in and locks in place, and will not come back out, you have done it right.. I hope I understood you right, and this is helpful. Good luck.

Toyota issued a recall on 2000-2003 model year Tundras regarding rust problems of a rear crossmember. This recall involved 110,000 vehicles and followed a similar action for the Tacoma

there is a adjustment at the pedal there is littler rings move some to the side of the pedal you step on if that doesn't help close the knob on top of the fuel tank and stand the mower up on the rear bars(that's what there for) remove the battery if you are going to leave it up move the shifter and make sure that it is sliding all the way over and change the rubber disc that rides on the flat metal disc

the noise from the rear disk is from a small amount of dirt lodged in the brake pad. it will clear soon and the noise will go away. You may want to check the alignment of the brakes... google "shimano disk brake alignment" then click "images" to see how.
If the tyre is not leaking any more then the repair is ok, if the tyre goes flat, you should change the tube.

You can get the manual on the link below. It will take you to another screen read last line.

http://service.mattel.com/us/product_detail.asp?id=L8906&Ntt=L8906&Pn=1&Brand=Fisher-Price+Friends&Cat=Little+Einsteins

Good Luck please rate 4 thumbs up and please leave a testimonial

you have the brake connection linkage backwards

Replacing the pads on your Fat Boy is not difficult but you need to pay close attention to the way things are put together as you take it apart. Particularly the little steel pad retainers and the anti-rattle spring. These parts are made and go together in such a way that it's very hard to describe how they go in.

To remove the pads, take the two caliper retaining bolts out of the disc brake caliper. These are usually Torx head bolts. Once you get the bolts out, the caliper simply slides to the front and off of the pads. You'll need a way to push the piston back into the caliper so it will go down onto the new pads. I usually do this with a large pair of slip joint pliers. Make sure you put a rag or something on your calipers so you don't damage the piston or the paint.

Now, look at the way the pads, the little steel pieces at each end of the pads and the anti-rattle spring are in the caliper support bracket. Remove the old pads and parts and install the new pads and parts in the same way. Make sure you put the fiber face of the pad TOWARDS THE ROTOR. Don't laugh, I've lots of people put them in backwards, especially on the back side of the rotor.

Now, carefully slide the caliper back down over the pads taking care not to knock the pads out of there positions. I put a little Loctite 242 (med. strength blue) on the threads of the caliper retainer bolts and reinstall them. Torque them to about 25 foot pounds.
Check the brake fluid level in the rear master cylinder and slowly "pump" the rear brake pedal until the rear brake feels firm. Wait a few minutes and mash the brake pedal one time to the bottom. If it goes down to lower point and then on the next "pump" is higher, you probably need to bleed air from the system.

Open the bleeder valve on the caliper, press the rear brake pedal to the bottom and hold it there, close the bleed valve, and then release the brake pedal. Continue to do this until all the air is out of the system and the rear brake pedal feels firm on the first time it's depressed. While doing this, never allow the rear brake fluid reserviour to run out of fluid. If it does, you'll have to start all over with the bleeding process. Use only DOT 5 brake fluid. DOT 5 and DOT 3 or 4 are NOT compatible and will not mix. If they are mixed, it will cause you a lot of trouble in the future.

Test the brakes before you ride the bike and then again when you first ride the bike at a very low speed. Failure to do this job properly can cause serious injury or death. Brakes must operate properly. Good Luck!

open trunk,

remove felt liner from rear of trunk, (liner directly behind rear lights in side trunk) should be 4 plastic Phillips head screws. Loosing screws, then slowly peel liner away. You will see 3 nuts on each side, removing these nuts will loosing the rear light lenses, so you can pull the lense away from the body from the out side to gain access to the license plate bulbs. Re-install in reverse order. While in there I would recommend replacing your brake light and reverse light bulb. Hey your already in there might as well do a little preventive maintance.