When I put the tank on and tightened the 3 bolts I had a leak on the right bolt but the tank was level.So I tightened it up and stopped the leak but it isn't level anymore

You need to replace the tank to bowl nuts, washers, and gaskets as well as the flush valve gasket. One word of caution. When installing the new bolts to hold the tank in, place a rubber gasket under the washer inside the tank, and also one on each bolt under the washer underneath the tank. If you omit the one under the tank you may end up cracking the tank when you tighten it down.

Hi keithn60...

I had the same problem one time with my toilet tank, the answer is to put some silicone on the seal washer between the take and bowl assembly and to use a level on the tank to tighten it just enough to be level and not leak.
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Hello, W/D here.

Most probably, the tank-to-bowl gasket has not seated properly. They are usually neoprene, and tend to bight on the bowl socket rather than to slide into the socket where it can be compressed properly. Remove the tank bolts and look at the gasket. Re-install, using a water based lubricant on the bowl side, with the gasket installed on the tank flange. Wiggle the tank and gasket back and forth a few times, and the gasket will start properly into the cast socket on the bowl. Install the bolts and tighten to finger tight. Wiggle the tank a bit more, and level the top. Tighten the bolts uniformly.
You mention that the flush valve was hand tightened only. If this gasket is not snug (a bit more than hand tight), a leak can occur there as well.
Best regards, --W/D--

Go to a plumbing supply house and get 2 or 3 bolts, 2 or 3 rubber sleeves for the bolts, and a new rubber gasket to go between the tank and toilet. Turn the supply water off, sorry, but, you don't know how many people don't do that. Disconnect the supply line from the tank. Flush the toilet, to remove water from the tank. Unbolt the tank. On the back underside of the toilet, you have 2 or 3 nuts to remove, depending on the toilet. Lift off the tank. Turn over the tank and set it on a towel. Now, gently tap down the bolts. Turn tank over and pull out the bolts. Turn tank back over and remove the tank and bolt gaskets, just push them in. Turn tank over. push in the new gaskets. Replace tank gasket, and gently tap down new bolts. Remount the tank. tighten the nuts, be careful, always tighten the nuts about the same. never tighten one all the way, and then another. YOU can crack the tank when tightening. Just nice and snug. Re hook the water supply, and turn on. Always check for leaks. If dripping, just tighten a little more. Just remember to tighten the all the nuts a little at a time. Keeping the tank level when tightening.

Yes you will need to replace the old gasket to prevent leakage, and when you put the new seal between the tank and base be sure to level the tank using a level and do not over tighten the bolts that hold the tank to the base.
I would also use a little silicone on the bolt heads that are inside of the tank to help prevent leaks from there also.
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Any hardware stores where plumbing supply is sold including lowes and home depot sell toilet seal kits including toilet to tank seals as well as toilet rebuild kits. Ask for a toilet to tank seal and washers for the bolts which might come with the large seal(check)
1. Close toilet water valve
2. Drain tank or sop with a towel and squeeze into tub until toilet is empty or bail water out with a cup.
3. Remove two tank bolts
4. clean area where old seals were
5. put tank seal on bowl and set tank lining it on top of seal.
6. Install tank bolts with new seals and tighten evenly
7. Don't over tighten or tank will crack. You probably can tighten until tank and toilet touch evenly on both sides.
8. Fill and check for leaks.

No, try this first, take the bolt out, use copper spacers to bolt size threads to fit and tighten it slowly until you feel it may not go anymore without forcing it. Mark a 1/2 white line on the bolt connecting it to 1/2 line on crankcase wall. Run the bike and if still leaks tighten it 1/8 at a time until it stop leaking or reach 1/2 turn from tightening start. Or use pipe thread tapes (normally white and very flimsy) near bolt top (abt 5mmfrom bolt head), wrap 2-3 times, put bolt back in again and tighten, ensuring tape goes in between thread and crank body tightly. That can stop the leaking.

Leaks at the floor or the tank where it meets the base behind the seat?

Generally tight enough to sinch it so as not to leak.

If the whole unit moves on the floor the wax ring may need to be replaced. If the tank leaks be sure the bolts are tightened evenly with new gaskets sealing them inside the tank. Tighten the nuts evenly until it stops moving freely and the leak should stop.

2000 Chevrolet Corvette V8-5.7L VIN G

Fuel Pump: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE (LEFT OR RIGHT)
TOOLS REQUIRED
^ J 34730-1A Fuel Pressure Gauge
^ J 37088-A Tool Set, Fuel Line Quick Connect Separator
CAUTION: Refer to the Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Relieve the fuel system pressure. Refer to the Fuel Pressure Relief Procedure.
CAUTION: Refer to Vehicle Lifting Caution in Service Precautions.
3. Raise the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
4. Remove the rear wheel and tire assembly.
5. Clean all of the fuel connections and the surrounding areas before disconnecting the fuel pipes in order to avoid possible contamination of the
fuel system.
6. Drain the fuel tanks. Refer to Fuel Tank Draining Procedure.
7. Remove the fuel tank shield.
8. Mark or identify each fuel pipe in order to aid in installing the pipes in their original positions.
9. Disconnect the quick-connect fittings from the fuel sender.
10. Cap all of the fuel pipes.
11. Disconnect the fuel sender electrical connector.
12. Remove the fuel tank strap.
13. Support the fuel tank.
14. Remove the fuel sender attaching bolts. Remove previously installed "break-away head" service bolts using a 5/16 inch open end wrench.
15. Discard the fuel sender attaching bolts.
16. Remove the float arm retaining clip and the float arm (left fuel sender only).
17. Carefully remove the fuel sender with the gasket.
18. Discard the fuel sender gasket.
19. Clean the gasket sealing surfaces.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE (RIGHT)
CAUTION: In order to reduce the risk of fire and personal injury that may result from a fuel leak, always replace the fuel sender gasket
and the fuel sender attaching bolts when reinstalling the fuel sender assembly.
1. Install a new fuel sender gasket on the fuel sender.
2. Fold the long strainer in half over itself and hold the strainer in this position.
3. Pinch both strainers upward toward each other.
IMPORTANT: Do not bend or twist the float arm.
4. Insert the float arm through the fuel tank opening followed by the folded strainers.
5. Release the strainers once the strainers are in the fuel tank. The strainers will spring back to their full position.
6. Continue inserting the fuel sender through the fuel tank opening. It may be necessary to rotate the fuel sender in order to facilitate the installation.
6.1. Look through the fuel tank opening to ensure that the long strainer is visible.
6.2. If the strainer is not visible, rotate the fuel sender clockwise and counterclockwise about 90 degrees. Rotating the fuel sender will free up
the strainer. The strainer should become visible at the tank opening.
7. Align the fuel sender gasket tab (2) with the fuel sender cover mark (1).
8. Align the fuel sender cover mark (1) with the fuel tank mark.
NOTE: Refer to the Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
9. Hand tighten the new "break-away head" fuel sender attaching bolts until finger tight.
IMPORTANT: The upper hex head portion of the fuel sender attaching bolts is designed to shear off of the lower section of the bolt when the
proper torque is reached. Do not tighten the bolts after the bolt heads have sheared off. A torque wrench or other special tools are not required. Do
not use thread locking or other types of sealers or lubricants when installing these bolts and gasket.
10. Tighten the new "break-away head" fuel sender assembly attaching bolts in sequence until the upper hex head portion of the bolts shear off of the
lower section.
11. Connect the fuel sender fuel feed pipe (1) (jet pump to left tank) and the fuel feed rear crossover pipe (2) (left tank to jet pump).
12. Connect the fuel sender electrical connector.
13. Install the fuel tank strap (3).
14. Install the fuel tank strap bolts (1,2,4).
Tighten
14.1.Tighten the bolt (2) to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
14.2.Tighten the bolt (1) to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
14.3.Tighten the remaining bolts (4) to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
15. Install the fuel tank shield (1).
16. Install the fuel tank shield mount bolt (2).
17. Install the fuel tank shield mount nut (3).
Tighten
^ Tighten the fuel tank shield mount bolt to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
^ Tighten the fuel tank shield mount nut to 12 N.m (106 lb in).
18. Install the rear wheel and tire assembly.
19. Lower the vehicle.
20. Refill the fuel system.
21. Install the fuel filler cap.
22. Connect the negative battery cable.
23. Inspect for leaks.
23.1.Turn the ignition switch ON for 2 seconds.
23.2.Turn the ignition switch OFF for 10 seconds.
23.3.Turn the ignition switch ON.
23.4.Inspect for fuel leaks.
24. Program the transmitters. Refer to Transmitter Programming/Synchronization in Keyless Entry.
25. Perform the idle learn procedure. Refer to PCM Idle Learn Procedure.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE (LEFT)
IMPORTANT: Always install a new fuel pump strainer before reinstalling the left fuel sender assembly. A fuel pump strainer that has been
exposed to fuel will not unfold in the fuel tank and may block full travel of the float arm.
1. Install a new fuel pump strainer in the same position as noted during disassembly. Push on the outer edge of the strainer ferrule until the strainer
is fully seated.
CAUTION: In order to reduce the risk of fire and personal injury that may result from a fuel leak, always replace the fuel sender gasket
and the fuel sender attaching bolts when reinstalling the fuel sender assembly.
2. Install a new fuel sender gasket on the fuel sender.
3. Fold the strainer three times so that the amount of space occupied by the strainer is about equivalent to the diameter of the fuel sender reservoir.
3.1. Fold the long side of the strainer over (1 over 2).
3.2. Fold 3 over 4 and hold the strainer in the folded position.
4. Insert the fuel sender through the fuel tank opening.
5. Release the strainer once the strainer is in the fuel tank. The strainer will spring back to its full position.
6. Continue inserting the fuel sender through the fuel tank opening. It may be necessary to rotate the fuel sender in order to facilitate the installation.
6.1. Look through the fuel tank opening to ensure that the long side of the strainer is visible.
6.2. If the strainer is not visible, rotate the fuel sender clockwise and counterclockwise about 90 degrees. Rotating the fuel sender will free up
the strainer. The strainer should become visible at the tank opening.
IMPORTANT: Do not bend or twist the float arm.
7. Insert the float and the float arm into the fuel tank opening.
8. Install the float arm retaining clip.
9. Align the fuel sender gasket tab (1) with the fuel sender cover mark (2).
10. Align the fuel sender cover mark (2) with the fuel tank mark.
NOTE: Refer to the Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
11. Hand tighten the new "break-away head" fuel sender attaching bolts until finger tight.
IMPORTANT: The upper hex head portion of the fuel sender attaching bolts is designed to shear off of the lower section of the bolt when the
proper torque is reached. Do not tighten the bolts after the bolt heads have sheared off. A torque wrench or other special tools are not required. Do
not use thread locking or other types of sealers or lubricants when installing these bolts and gasket.
12. Tighten the new "break-away head" fuel sender assembly attaching bolts in sequence until the upper hex head portion of the bolts shear off of the
lower section.
13. Connect the fuel sender fuel feed pipe (1) (jet pump to left tank), the fuel return rear pipe (2), and the fuel feed rear pipe (3).
14. Connect the fuel sender electrical connector.
15. Install the fuel tank strap (3).
16. Install the fuel tank strap bolts (1,2,4).
Tighten
16.1.Tighten the bolt (2) to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
16.2.Tighten the bolt (1) to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
16.3.Tighten the remaining bolts (4) to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
17. Install the fuel tank shield (3).
18. Install the fuel tank shield mount bolt (1).
19. Install the fuel tank shield mount nut (2).
Tighten
^ Tighten the fuel tank shield mount bolt to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
^ Tighten the fuel tank shield mount nut to 12 N.m (106 lb in).
20. Install the rear wheel and tire assembly.
21. Lower the vehicle.
22. Refill the fuel system.
23. Install the fuel filler cap.
24. Connect the negative battery cable.
25. Inspect for leaks.
25.1.Turn the ignition switch ON for 2 seconds.
25.2.Turn the ignition switch OFF for 10 seconds.
25.3.Turn the ignition switch ON.
25.4.Inspect for fuel leaks.
26. Program the transmitters. Refer to Transmitter Programming/Synchronization in Keyless Entry.
27. Perform the idle learn procedure. Refer to PCM Idle Learn Procedure.