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I have never used that brand of impact, but I have used many others and I have never known an electric impact or drill to need oil. You need oil in an air powered impact because the air motor needs lubrication. The electric motors in electric impacts have sealed bearings and brushes that are meant to run dry. The actual impact assembly should be sealed as well, it should not need any oil.
Just put 3-5 drops of air tool oil down the air inlet coupler and then run the gun for 5 seconds. Do this everyday that you run the gun for best results.
get some air tool oil and put it in the hose connection and manually turn the socket end by hand,the air vanes have frozen in place and can't hold the air in to operate the unit,make sure when you do this squeeze thge trigger to let the oil into the units barrel,then connect to an air supply and try it,you may need to help get it started by hand,then let it run and add some more air tool oil again to keep it lubed
a rubber seal/o-ring is either wore or broke inside or one of the internal components are stuck, do you regularly oil it? put a couple drops of oil in where you connect the air line and let it work itself through with it turning. Might loosen it up
you probably have rust and goo in the line and it has stuck the trigger open,run some air tool oil in and let it soak or better yet some penetrating oil to break up the sludge and then when cleaned out use the air tool oil to lube it
I used to repair these impacts for a living. Simplest first thing to do is back off the three 1/8" set screws in the back a couple turns. Pour a little varsol into the air inlet and plug it in. run the gun until your hand is black, (wear a glove). Once the varsol stops disconnect the air, add a few drops of air tool oil and tighten the screws slowly and evenly. You will hear the impact rpm increase. If your gun doesn't speed up to it's original scream you will have to remove the four 5/32" set screws and see what's worn. To open it hold the impact by the nose 3" off the table and position a center punch in the hole of the anvil shank with the same hand and hit it with a hammer hard enough to overtake the spring. The guts should drop on to the table in tact. The guts are in twp parts, the hammering mechanism, and the air motor. The three 1/8" screws hold the motor together. You will soon see the problem. Take the back off the air motor and it will show your if the veins are worn. Cjeck the end plates for wear. You can turn the end plates down on a lathe if available. As a rule of thumb, if the anvil shank is dry buy a repair kit, if it's wet, buy a tune-up kit. If the ring on the anvil shank doesn't turn, buy a repair kit and change your sockets. When rebuilding these front seal often leaks. These impacts are supposed to use 30 weight oil, but a mix of Ingersol Rand grease and 30 weight oil, ( just till it's slightly runny) will stay much longer. Assembling the anvil assembly can be tricky until you figure out how to hold the shank and two pins with the same hand. Good luck.
Put 4 or 5 drops of oil into the air line opening. Connect an air supply and burst the trigger a few times. The settings are 1-less 4 more. It's all up to the application and they are not specific settings.
it could be a fuse.
allthough it could be freon out or something wrong with the compressor or compressor clutch or maybe the belt is missing.
if the blower stopped blowing air then the blower motor fuse or blower motor itself has gone out.
look around in the paper for ac checks for free.
goto about 2 or 3 to be sure there telling you the same thing .
be sure to ask them to point and show and explain to you exactly whats the problem. [email protected]
you can contact me with what they say and i can help you decide on whats right and whats wrong.
keep me posted
thank you
jm
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