How to connect three gang switch to control three lights, using two 1mm double core

You have 2-gang switch.
Look at following illustration showing gang switches:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html#gang

Hot wire feeds one screw on first switch, and then jumpers to second switch.
Your jumper wire is connected wrong place.

Find hot wire... there will be 1 hot wire entering gang box.
Disconnect all wires, and separate for testing.
Turn power on and test each wire to bare ground wire... that will show the hot wire.

Sorry it is difficult to post question on fixya, or communicate with people answering free questions.

Gene h

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Copy following links:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html#gang

http://waterheatertimer.org/images/3-gang-box-800.jpg

You have to test which wire is neutral.... usually white wires twisted together and covered with wire nut in back of box.
Hot wire with test 120volt to neutral.
Hot wire will test 120volt to ground.

Gene
h

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Copy following link for switch wiring illustrations
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Your switch has 2 wires, and 2 brass screws, and new switch will have same.
Connect either wire to new switch.
Connect bare ground wire to green screw.
Turn power off, remove screws that hold switch into box, pull out switch, take photo of wiring, install new switch.
If wires are pushed into back of switch, then use small screwdriver and push into slot to release wire.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Copy following link for wiring 3-gang switch:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html#gang

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

So you're replacing the receptacle in the 2 gang box with a switch that will control a receptacle? If so there's no reason you couldn't use the feed from the receptacle. As long as you maintain the integrity of any existing runs through the box...you're not adding any devices really so there shouldn't be a problem with the branch circuit device count. Bear in mind this stuff has the potential to burn your house down so be real clear on what you're doing and make a good secure job of it. When in doubt call in a pro....

It sounds like you have a pull chain switch that turns on one and/or multiple lightsor light and fan. The common wire would be a colored wire (probably black or red) and the one and two gang terminals would be your switch connectors. Neither terminal should be connected to a white or green wire..
I hope this helps out.

I can help, but I need a lot more specific info. Please use these naming conventions to describe what you have:
G1, G2 -- the two gangs of 4 switches each G1S1 - the first switch in gang 1 L1 - light, appliance or outlet number 1
Describe how each light is controlled as follows: L1 - G1S1 & G2S1 (one light controlled by a pair of 3-way switches) L2,L3 - G1S2 (assumes a normal switch controlling two lights) etc. for all of the L's presently controlled by all 8 switches
Then describe what you want the 6 new switches to operate.

If the power originates at the location of the light (or other item being switched) you need a 3-core cable from there to to each switch location.
If the power originates at one of the switch locations you need a 2-core cable from there to the fixture and a 3-core cable to the other switch location. (If the cable to the second switch location is routed through the junction box at the fixture then you only need 4 cores from the first switch to the junction box--three switch wires and the neutral wire for the fixture.)
In all cases described above the ground (earth) wire is separate and not included in the count.

I assume that you're talking about a remote-controlled ceiling fan.

There are two parts to a remote-control setup -- the transmitter (the switch which you use to operate the fan and/or light), and the receiver (which receives the signals sent by the transmitter, and directly controls the fan and/or light).

The receiver -- which should look like a plastic rectangle, usually white, grey, or orange-brown in color -- can be identified by the fact that it has several colored wires coming out of it, and doesn't have any buttons. This is mounted in the ceiling fan itself. On nearly all setups, it goes inside the canopy (the decorative part of the ceiling fan, up by the ceiling, which hides the fan's electrical wires).

The transmitter may be either hand-held like a television remote control, or in-wall mounted like a light switch. If you have the hand-held variety, there is nothing to install in a wall box. The wall-box wires should be appropriately connected up, and a blank cover plate should be put on top of the gang box.

If, on the other hand, you have the in-wall variety of transmitter, then yes -- it gets mounted in the wall, in a gang box, like a normal light switch or outlet.

If you need any further clarification, please feel free to ask!