Have the 125. The light comes on on the panel, but water is usually ice cold. Have tried adjusting the thermostat but same results. Open to any suggestions on this matter. Thanks

There should be ;a removable panel on the side of the tank, usually attached with 2 screws (top and bottom). Open the circuit breaker that operates the water heater, remove that cover and there is normally some insulation that comes out and a plastic cover insulating all the wire connections. The plastic cover may allow you to access the temperature adjustment or you may have to slip off the cover to get to it. Some electric units have double heat elements, in which case there are two of the panels on the side of the tank with nearly identical wiring inside and separate temperature adjustments. Reducing the water temperature setting for the tank will reduce the pressure in the tank, as higher temperatures result in greater expansion of the water in the tank.

It sounds like there is too much pressure in the hot water pipes. You can try adjusting the pressure. Do it a little at a time to see how much hot water is coming out. The only other thing I can think of is that there is a large delay between the switch and the water flow. meaning you will need to stop the water a while before you actually want the water to stop flowing.

Elisa Jed ' http://www.mccreeryhvac.com

follow this steps and fix it. God bless you

If there is no hot water, first push the reset button on the high-temperature cutoff; test the thermostat and replace if faulty (see below). Test the heating elements and replace if faulty (see below).
If there is not enough hot water, adjust the thermostat settings. As needed, reset, test and replace thermostats and heating elements if faulty.
If the water is too hot, adjust the thermostat settings and reset. Test and replace the thermostat or high-limit cutoff (see below).
An electric water heater is a 240-volt appliance that can deliver a fatal shock. Always turn off power to the heater at the electrical panel before beginning work, and verify that power has been shut off. Make sure others in the house know not to restore electricity prematurely. If you have any doubt as to whether electricity has been turned off, seek professional assistance.

I recommend safety changes to prevent ruptured water heater and assorted leaks.
135 degree hot water.
Maybe replace TP valve if it is dripping.
Drip pan under water heater with 3/4" drain line to outside.
Expansion tank on incoming cold water line to absorb pressure build-up, and prolong life of tank and plumbing.

Here's why:

1) Yes you can have scalding hot water.

2) I recommend 135 degrees since that will burn the evil right out of ya. And generally kill clothes washing bacteria.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-adjust-water-heater-temperature.html

3) 150 is dangerous and can seriously burn skin in 1.5 seconds. Not safe around children and elderly.

4) Temperature settings on electric water heater are approximate, since thermostats are calibrated approximately, and read temperature through tank wall.

5) Also if you want to increase amount of hot water for high-consumption household, then setting tank temperature upward is one solution since more cold water is mixed with hot, so amount of hot inside tank goes further.

6) High temperature can cause TP valve to release water.
TP valve is pressure-temperature safety valve. Do NOT cap off.
Rating should be 125 psi and 180 degrees ... but all things water heater are approximate, and TP valves need replacement now and then.
It is not recommended by water heater manufactures to use 150 psi TP valve when water heater came with 125 psi. Rating shows in small print on end of TP. New TP valves sold at local hardware. Let tank cool before installing new one.

7) Higher temperature and high pressure can rupture tank.
Pressure over 80 psi shortens life of water heaters and plumbing fixtures. Put BTG100 pressure gauge on water heater drain valve to check pressure.

8) You need a drip pan with 3/4" drain line to outdoors, or to drain vent line, to prevent flood caused by ruptured water heater.
Turn water heater off when going on vacation.
Inspect water heater each 6 months.
Drip pan available at local home center or hardware:
http://waterheatertimer.org/9-ways-to-save-with-water-heater.html#drip

9) Heated water expands and puts pressure on tank and pipes.
Water does not compress... so when water gets hotter it expands against tank wall and against pipes.
Especially in closed system (check valve present) when system is without expansion tank.
Expansion tank is installed on incoming cold water line.
http://waterheatertimer.org/9-ways-to-save-with-water-heater.html#expansion

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Is water inside tank Hot?
Open TP valve and also open drain valve.
If tank is hot, then you might have plumbing problem caused by bad faucet cartridge or check valve.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Crossover.html

Red reset button is located on upper thermostat.
Test for 120Volt across top two screws on upper thermostat.
You might have a bad upper thermostat.
If electric water heater has some hot water, then upper element is good.
Electrician should enjoy following page full of information.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

Are the hot and cold pipes reversed on top of tank?
Usually the cold water line has shut-off valve.
Top of tank is marked H and C
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-it-works.html

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Your 2 separate thermostats are pre-set so adjustment isn't possible although you can purchase a hotter thermostat. Normally the complaints I get are that propane is not hot enough, but electric is too hot, so I'm wondering if perhaps you haven't got a valve at by-pass in wrong position, or defective that may be allowing cold to mix with the hot. Make sure any valve in between hot (top line) and cold line (bottom) are all the way in off position. You want flow in to bottom open, and out the top open, and anything else in between, shut off. Have you actually tested a cup of hot water from tap to see what temperature it is? I just don't see both thermostats as being faulty at same time, but?

You can open the top up again. I would not turn the temp higher than 130 degrees, maximum. However, there should be above the thermostat a red button. This is where the power wires connect to the thermostats and heating elements. Sometimes this button needs to be reset, press it and discern if you hear a click sound. This means that the high temperature safety switch has tripped open and you had to manually "reset" it. There are two thermostats by the way. The water heater usually works this way. There are two thermostats and two heaters. The upper tank heater turns on first and it heats the top half of the tank. Then when the thermostat above is satisfied it then allows the bottom heater to come on and heat the bottom half of the tank. You might want to set the bottom heater thermostat as well. This is made this way because it is actually faster and more efficient to heat the top half first and the bottom half secondly. Try this first with the reset button. We could check voltages, but that requires a level of knowledge and safety that I am not sure that you are comfortable with. Pictures of the upper and lower thermostats and connections will help if the "reset" does not do the trick. By the way, not meaning or implying anything, but did you move the thermostat in the right direction? Sometimes the dials can be confusing.

The problem with all that type of water heater is that once the hot tap is turned on sufficient flow must be maintained through the water heater to keep the main gas burner alight. If the heat adjuster is turned up to high, then the person using the hot water will turn it down to a low rate which means the main burner will turn off and result in cold water. Try setting the heat control to the lowest setting that still gives hot enough water. If you have a thermometer adjust control for a temperature of around 50 to 55 degrees Celcius. You may have to fiddle with fine adjustments to get the temperature and flow rates to maintain a constant output of hot water. You may still have intermittent problems. If the heater only supplies baths or showers you could set the temperatuer even lower (45 to 50) to ensure that the hot tap is used more than the cold which will maintain flow and therefore heat.

Slower the flow hotter the water is how it works . Sounds like the water section is blocked and could well need cleaning out . Draw back with this system is you need a good inlet flow and flow will drop when you open other taps . they are good for a small house a family house not that good . Not much you can do put in a bigger water inlet to heater ?

It is most likely the water valve stuck open, telling the controls to heat water, that it thinks is flowing through it, but without actual flow it overheats. Depending on how comfortable you are with taking it apart yourself, you could open the valve to see if it just needs cleaned out, or if you have a ruptured diaphragm or some other cause.