Ice keeps building up on the freezer floor in my Kenmore refrigerator freezer. though I have turned the freezer setting down to cold from very cold, this continues to happen

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system: Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets. The defrost timer The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)

Sounds like a defrost failure.
Look on the back wall of the freezer from the inside.
If it is covered in ice your defrost system has failed.
Also check the fan motor in the freezer.
If it is not running it must be replaced.

Do you have frost build up on the back panel in your freezer side? If so this would be a defrost problem.

The defrost mode has failed...replace the defrost element or the timer...it may also be low on gas.I bet its the element....easy and cheap to replace.

Ok do this. Boil some water in a pot then use that to defrost the freezer. This is caused by ice build up in the vent that is keeping the cold air from coming into the refrigerator. Make sure it is defrost completel though cause the ice that is built up is mostly inside and can't be seen. That will solve ur problem I guarantee. Then set the temperature to normal. Like half way. This keeps the frost from building up. Believe it or not as refrigerators get a bit older they actually get even colder and therefore frost build up is more likely. Since no refrigeration can be made completely leak proof, small amount of the freon has leaked out older fridge, and this actually cause it to get colder. You don't need a service technician just defrost then set to a lower setting thats it.

Could be a couple things. Turn freezer dial control to suggested setting---usually 5. turn fridge dial up. if you set the freezer dial to a higher number it will divert more air to freezer, turning down will divert more to fridge.
Clean coils in back or under fridge.
Is ice building up in freezer?
Are your door gaskets sealing?

Evaporator coils
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting.
If it still exists then there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Hi, If ice is building in the freezer, you have a defrost drain hole plugged. Unplug the Fridge and then remove the rear panel off the freezer. There you will find ice built up in rain. Remove the ice (hair dryer works best). Once the ice is gone, you need to make sure the drain hole is open all the way. A baisting serringe with hot water works really well.
I hope this helps. Please let me know if I can assist you further. Please rate my answer so I know how I am doing.

Thanks
Vic

Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

• The defrost timer



• The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)



• The defrost heater

If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

unplug it again , sounds like your drain line has frozen, instaead of defrost water going down the tube and under refrig in drain pan, becuse tube is frozen its draining into freezer compartment and eventually spilling out through front of unit. totally defrost unit and behind back wall of freezer youll see a metal trough designed to catch water, in the center (under the ice is gonna be the drain hole, pour boiling water down until it runs freely