No spin - tip for all washers.

Hi.

If you have no spin there may be different reasons behind the problem. Before advancing to spin the timer board performs a test on drain part of the cycle, stops the drain and checks the door lock. Drain system, pressure switch and lid switch are all parts that if defective may cause no spin.

The first part to be tested is the drain system. This must be checked regardless of the fact that the pump is working. If there is blockage, residual water in the drain system or water flowing back from drain hose may cause the washer not detecting that drain is complete, and not advancing to spin.

Disconnect power and check the drain system, accessing drain filter and hose connected to the drain pump.
In most front loaders this is accessed removing the trim at the base of the front side of the appliance (under the door), and rotating the filter cap counterclockwise. The filter should be located behind the trim at the base of the washer.
Top loader usually offer access to pump either from back or from the bottom of the appliance. In some case (eg.Kenmore top load) you have to lean the machine forware to gain access to the bottom part of the unit, where the pump is located.

After opening the pump hose cover be prepared to collect a good amount of water. Keep a container at hand. Ensure that power is not connected before starting.

Also double check drain hose at the back of the appliance, and check that the elbow height is as prescribed in manual. Incorrect drain hose settings may result in syphoning, that means water is flowing back from drain hose into the washer tube. This may result in no spin.

After performing the check on the drain system test washer again. Sometimes removing eventual blockage in drain pump may fix this kind of problem.

If the pump is draining, but drain doesn't complete, and if there is no blockage in drain lines, a parts that may be causing the no-spin problem are pressure switch and door latch switch.

The door latch switch is checked by electronic control before advancing to spin. The door switch is tested running a cycle with the door switch contacts jumped. If the model has a lock motor more testing is needed. In that case the switch is tested ensuring that the lock motor impedance reads according to specifications and energizing the lock motor.

If the drain stops always at same point and cycle does not advance replace also the pressure switch. The pressure switch detects water level and determines when drain is over and when to advance to spin. This part is difficult to test in full, the part is not expensive and it is usually replaced without testing. Pressure switch is a common failure causing no spin. If drain is OK, then either pressure switch or lid switch/lock system is usually responsible.

If the above is OK , with top loaders you need to add to the list the problems related to motor and transmission. In front loaders, check problems related to motor and motor control unit. Such problems will be near to the end of the troubleshooting list. Check them before deciding to replace the electronic control.

If all the other parts are OK, what remains is the electronic control module (CCU). The CCU is rarely causing no spin. A defective electronic control module usually results in an error message being prompted, or in the machine not working at all. The part is tested in full reading volts while the machine is operating. In some case it is possible to find a faulty CCU by visually inspecting the board or by testing the module at component level.

For safety reasons some of the operations proposed in the tip are suitable only for a trained technician. Always ensure that power is turned off while inspecting and maintaining the appliance.

Good luck

Ginko.