Tip & How-To about GE 30 in.JP950 Electric Cooktop

How to fix GE cooktop error code F116

First, i tried turning on/off power with no luck. if you get this code you will probably just need to replace the LF burner, which is pretty easy to do. i researched and found GE OEM parts from appliance zone. info is below:

ApplianceZone.com Items
1 Stove / Oven / Range Radiant Element Lf - WB30T10080 (OEM) @ $170.67 = $170.67
Sub-Total: $170.67
Shipping: $6.95 Standard Shipping (6.95) USD
ApplianceZone.com Total: $177.62

Once i received then new burner i just replaced it and all is working fine, no error code!
First i turned off all power and removed my cooktop from my counter and unscrewed the sheet metal shroud on the bottom, only remove the screws around the perimeter of shroud closets to glass, they are small black Phillips screws, like 15 screws total. i didn't disconnect any wires from the unit to junction box, you should be able to leave all that alone if you have a long enough connection. i made the mistake of leaving the cooktop upside down when removing the metal shroud, don't do this. there are springs on posts that keep the burners tight to the glass and will fall out (if up side down). leave the cooktop right side up and just lift off the glass once you remove all screws, when lifting the glass off, there is one plug at the circuit board attached to glass that you will need to unplug to completely remove the glass and set aside. you will see the 4 burners, i took a picture of the unit with glass removed to make sure i could reference any wires when i was re-installing new burner. i unplugged all wires to LF burner and unplugged the harness from the circuit board. once i removed old burner i noticed the new burner doesn't include the 2 tabs you need. i removed them from the old burner and made sure to install them in the same location on the new burner. I than plugged in all wires and harness back into the unit and set burner on posts with springs. carefully replace glass and don't forget to plug the glass top circuit board back into the unit circuit board. re-attach metal shroud and screws, drop in and done! there are instructions to re-calibrate the new burner which is probably a good idea, i didn't and it is working just fine! good luck

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which burner cap fits LF burner
The burners will only fit into the base that is the same size.
https://www.partselect.com/Models/JDR8895AAS/Sections/CONTROL-PANEL-TOP-ASSEMBLY/?ModelID=110583&ModelNum=JDR8895AAS&mfgModelNum=&ManufactureID=1&Selected=56477&Position=2&mfg=Maytag&Type=Range&Mark=2

https://www.plessers.com/Jenn-air/jdr8895aas.htm

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Thermador sgcs365rw - I need to replace the cover for the on/off light. To access it I need to open remove the cooktop but one of the venturi is stuck fast. How can I undo it?
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DCS 305 cootktop: one burner will not stop clicking + the simmer flame is not on consistently around the burner.
Hello- What is probably happening is that the simmer orifice is clogged. If this gets clogged-up and not enough gas comes out to the burner it will continue to click. This is usually pretty easy to remedy. Take off the burner cap and you will see two holes, one in the center for the main burner and a smaller one that is on the perimeter of the burner. Look down that small hole and you should see a bronze orifice, it is pretty small, about 1/8" in diameter on the outside, looks like a nut. Most likely you will see grease or charred bits on the top of it (you can use one of the other burners for a reference if you are having trouble seeing it clearly) In the center of the orifice is a tiny hole, this is the part that is likely clogged. Now, you'll need to find something really skinny, like thin sewing needle and poke it into the orifice opening. Sometimes it is necessary to hold onto the needle with needle-nosed pliers in order to get it far enough in. Just be gentle with it and if what you are using seems too large in diameter then it probably is, you don't want to dent or cause any damage to the orifice opening. Once you get it cleaned out it should work ok. Let me know if you have any questions. Best regards.
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Sep 26, 2010 • DCS 36 in. CTD365N / CTD365L Gas Cooktop
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Jun 19, 2009 • GE 30 in.JP950 Electric Cooktop
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viking cooktop disassembly
Well, it happened again. I'd replaced the spark module last time around, due to spillage getting into/onto that control unit. This time around, I had one burner that just kept sparking after it was lit. Cleaning the sparking post (emitter) didn't solve the problem, but I realized that there might be contamination elsewhere in the connect. I pulled the brass rings (nuts, really) and was able to lift the the top off. I carefully removed the individual sparking wires from each burner, and examined each assembly. After cleaning some debris off the male connector for that bad burner's spark assy, and reassembling the cooktop, it worked!

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