Hi, Taking it out is a very difficult process and if you try you will wish that you didn't...I don't know which end of the globe you live in, but hopefully you are in the northern hemisphere, so you are approaching winter and will not need it...
Once cooling is over, take a small spray bottle and fill it half full of Clorox unscented bleach and the other half water...then spray the fan, soaking it well with the bleach water and moving it around by hand so that you get the whole fan...make sure to catch any run off and protect walls, carpets and such from the over spray, so you don't bleach them...
Then let everything sit and dry out....a few days should do the trick...then take compressed air and blow the dried residue that is left out of the fan blades...
THE INTAKE GRILLE REMOVAL
(1) Open the intake grille.
(2) Pull down the knob.
(3) Lift the intake grille upward, until the axle at the top of the intake
grille is removed.
THE FRONT PANEL REMOVAL
(1) Remove intake grille (Reference the intake grille removal.)
(2) Remove four screws.
(3) The thumb is hung on the lower part as shown in the figure,
and it pulls to the front, pushing [-] mark , and bottom hooks
(two position) is removed from wall hook bracket.
(4) The front panel bottom is pulled to the front, and bottom hooks
is removed indoor unit.
(5) The front panel is pulled to the front, raising the upper surface,
and a front panel is removed.
Simplest thing to do is get an air compressor and clean the outside aircon condenser. This if blocked will cause cooling and heating problems. Not to forget to clean the inside evaporator filters as well.
Hi, It is a 25,000 dollar find to bleed off the freon. This is why we have recovery machines. You can pump it down and save the freon that is in the whole system. Go to the outdoor unit. Leave the power on. The small copper line where it comes out of the unit will have a valve on it. It may have a cap screwed over its top. you will see an allen head screw on it. This may take a little time but is well worth it. Screw it down closed, CW. tight. Start the ac and let it run.Since you have no gauges to watch it pull the freon from inside the house to store it all in the outdoor unit, the condenser will shut down when it is done. Once the valve is off and you turn on the stat to run, it won't take very long for the freon to pump in the outdoor unit. We call this pumping the unit down. When done, close down the valve on the large copper line the same way before you shut off stat. Now, you save youself some $ as the freon can be used again. It is perfectly good. The tech will need to cut the lines and relocate them where ever you move this unit and resolder them with silver solder15%. New control wire and move electrical. I hope this has helped you. This is the way it is done. Keep me posted. Merry Christmas, Shastalaker7
The front cover can be dismantled (taken off as one Piece) by unscrewing the screws at the bottom of the air outlet (they are covered by screw cvers which will need to be taken off. Then just pull off the cover. PLEASE NOTE that the front panel (liftable to take out filters) will need to be removed lift up until 90 degrees and then pull off gentley and also take out filters before removing front cover I take the time to answer you questions so please rate me
Thankyou
Mat
Yes i can! The mode of operation (MASTER CONTROL)has been set to AUTO instead of HEAT. Easy mistake and very simple to fix. Press the MASTER CONTROL button until HEAT is display on the LCD. I hope that this helps I take the time to answer you questions so please rate me
Thankyou
Mat
On the outdoor unit the fan should not be running, on the indoor unit the fan should be running. If you then check the outdoor unit with fan not running, you should be able to hear clearly that the compressor is actually working. If this is all correct, it is possible that your fourway reverse valve is seeping and needs to be replaced.
it really doesn't need to be reconnect unless you live in colder weather,it's job is to keep the oil in the compressor warm but if you live in warmer climate not a big deal
Called Flash Codes. First try turning off everything at the breaker for at least 2 hours and preferably overnight. Turn back on and wait 15 minutes for self test to complete.
https://www.orionair.co.uk/PDF/fujitsu-trouble-shooting.pdf
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I have found that with my Fujitsu Halcyon, it needs to be disconnected from the mains at the breaker for 2 hours to properly reset. Use that time to clean the filters in the wall unit. The clicking you hear is self testing of relays.
I have the same unit. The drain line will be outside and is linked to the condensate drain on the outside refrigeration unit. It will be a black plastic or clear polythene tube a half inch in diameter. The bottom is probably blocked. A tech may be able to do it from the inside by blowing compressed Nitrogen gas down the drain. The case obviously has to come off which should be a quick job just 7 screws according to the video help.
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