Top 20 Powermatic 1791227K Model 64 10" Artisan Left Tilt Table Saw with 30" Accu Fence System Questions & Answers

There should be some screws on the bottom side of the fence that allow you to make adjustments. Loosen then slightly then set the fence to 90 degrees & then tighten them.

Replace the entire switch assembly, otherwise you will be doing a lot of work and buying individual parts that very well won't be available.

I'm not familiar with your saw, but I'm familiar with table saws in general. The tilting is achieved by a worm screw on the end of the crank handle engaging a partial worm gear on the tilt mechanism. If all you get is clicking, the worm is jumping out of the teeth on the worm gear. It's likely that the shaft you're turning has slid a bit in its bearing and the far end of the worm is no longer constrained and no longer holds the worm tightly against the worm gear. I'd say just take the whole thing apart and re-assemble it. In the process, you'll find out how the worm has slipped out of place and you'll see how to put it back where it belongs so that the worm is supported on both ends.

I have no idea what an overlocker is. Help me out.

Ok, basic question...is the lock engaged? It is the small knob at the center of the adjustment wheel. Is it possible the screw has been galled? Here is the manual- http://content.powermatic.com/manuals/1791227K_man.pdf

You can only tell by using a continuity tester or a multimeter and some troubleshooting techniques.

Does wiggling the cord cause the problem?

These lightweight saws can be somewhat problematic in this respect. They have a tendency to come out of adjustment as they are moved about.First, make sure the blade you're using is true and has little runout. You can check this using a micrometer, or simply marking a tooth and spinning the blade by hand (power unplugged) to see if the blade runs true or wavers in its path. If the blade is warped or bent the problem is probably there rather than the table.Second, check to make sure the fence is properly adjusted, parallel to the mitre slots. If the fence is out of adjustment, the path of the material relative to the blade will not be parallel, and this can cause poor cuts.Third, hope it's one of the first two. If not, set a day or weekend aside to work on the saw. Get some good light and flip it over on a table or horses so you can see what you're doing. Have the parts diagram and owner's manual on hand.You'll need to loosen the bolts that hold the table top against the saw mechanism beneath the top, and shift the saw relative to the top in the desired direction to correct for the out-of true path of the blade relative to the table top. On some lighter saws like yours, this entails re-adjusting most of the saw mechanisms to run true, as they are frequently independently bolted to the underside of the table and not unified construction that moves as a single piece.You have to shift the saw slightly in the required direction, check the runout of the blade, then repeat until you get it right. If you're skilled and you don't mind standing on your head, you can do this with the saw in position.There are many excellent articles online that detail this procedure if you search google for "table saw tune up", so I won't elaborate on the details. Try to find one that has a saw similar to yours as an example. Good luck.I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread. If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take just a moment to rate this post....thanks!

Look at the nameplate on the motor, it'll either say 230/115V and list the current draw for each, or it'll just say 230v. If it offers both then you'll find a plate where the wire goes into the motor, under this it'll tell you how to change the voltage the motor requires.

Keep in mind, at the lower voltage it'll draw twice the amps so you want to be sure you have a heavy enough circuit to feed it.

lp

align blade and fence to mitre slot.

I can't tell you what the value is but I can share a tip I use whenever buying a used saw.

With the saw in the 90 degree position (Straight up) run a board all the way through the board. Then flip one half of the board upside down and place the two cuts together. If the blade is true the two halves should line up perfectly. If they don't that means the blade is out of square. While re squaring a saw is fairly easy, I would wonder why the blade was off and how often that would happen and therefore would likely not buy the saw.

Of a side note, Craftsman does make a great saw and they are fairly easy to work on and find parts for.

Good Luck

If you want to buy a new one, the Grizzly G1022 Table saw is an exact replica of the PM#63. A owners manual and parts list is available at their website. Grizzly.com

Yes. Buy any with a suitable connector and fit the plug for your country. Make sure the voltage is correct first!

Hi Marsha- Here is the Powermatic website for customer support. http://www.powermatic.com/us/en/service-and-support/customer-support/ Hope this helps.

Descripition: its very Inside Diameter: 304.8 mm,12 in Outside Diameter: 444.5 mm,17.5 in Width: 63.5 mm,2.5 in A NSN Bearing

http://www.kakapart.com/parts/nsn-6285321.html EE291201 291750 bearing Tapered roller bearing 304 8 444 5 63 5 mm EOE... EE291201 EE291749 Tapered Roller Bearing specification http://www.cksbearing.com/showprod.asp?id=8054&listid=69

we usually get our parts off of this site. http://www.ereplacementparts.com/ They have most of the things that we need.

it is not the switch. it is the start run capacitor. it is located under the hump on the motor. becarfull when you uncover it, it may still hold a charge. after you have removed the cover you must replace that shiny things that has all the wires in it. careful to put the wires back that way thy came. and get a capacitor with the same UF Microfarits.

L Luke, closest I could find is May 1983. http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/655/6140.pdf

Here is a link to the Accu-fence manual. It Includes the adjustments. From you description I think you will find that the adjustments will solve your problem http://content.powermatic.com/assets/manuals/2195075Z_man_EN.pdf

Probably a long out of date question but my suggestion is to purchase a link style belt to replace the old hard drive belt that comes with the saw. It'll deliver more power to the blade, run quieter and work better. I also recommend replacing the drive pulleys while you're at it. Get a couple of balance ones. You can get a link belt at Rockler or other woodworking outlets. http://www.rockler.com/1-2-power-twist-plus-link-v-belt