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Samsung AW0503B Air Conditioner Questions & Answers
Problem with samsung aw0503b
Found this on Samsungs site.Hope it helps a little, at least you know the problem now.
If your air conditioner displays E1 in the display panel and won't turn on, it means that the Room Thermistor (a device connected to the thermostat that detects room temperature) is shorted or defective, and you need to have your air conditioner serviced.
If it displays E2, E3, or any other E error, you also need to have your air conditioner serviced.
To arrange for service, contact Samsung Customer Care at 1-800-Samsung (1-800-726-7864). Have the model number of your air conditioner on hand when you call.
The copper coil line got a litle hole in it,
After the hole was repaired; did the serviceman charge your system with Freon? This would need to be done as any leaks in a ac system will empty the charge in a short amount of time. window units usually have a very small Freon charge due to the small size.
1.5 ton ac. It is getting cold near the outlet but
Is the fan running? If the fan is running you should check your filter. If it isn't running then you should check the capacitor for the fan and the fan motor. Also make sure the evaporator coil is clean. If all of this is good then get the refrigerant charge checked.
Servicemanuals net
This is pretty old you ma not find the gas for refill also the electrical consumption would be high,, recommended for life cycle replacement.
The water is not draining.
The drain hole will be under the drip pan near the rear of the unit. It can be hard to find sometimes, as the clog will blend in with the drain hole. A pipe cleaner works well to clear the hole. In addition, check the rear downward tilt. The general rule of thumb for rear downward tilt s 1/4" to 1/2". This allows the water to flow toward the rear of the unit to the drain hole. Instead to the front and down your interior wall.
NOTE: Be sure to turn the AC Off and unplug it, before attempting any repairs.
I hope this helped you and thanks for choosing FixYa.
I just washed the air
Not sure is it does or doesn't relate to the problem. The best way to find out is to replace the wire as you found it. Turn the unit OFF and Unplug it before removing the front again.
It is two years old and the compressor will not
It could be a bad capacitor or thermostat. If it is electronically controlled then the control board could also be bad not letting the compressor run. Also check that you are getting proper power to the outlet for the A/C. The model number you list is for a 115 volt unit so if you have any power at all then it should be ok but if you have a multimeter then check it anyway.
*CAUTION*
Capacitors hold a large electrical charge and will discharge upon
contact with your skin. This is enough to stop your heart and cause
death. If you are not confident of your abilities around these devices
then please leave any test or repairs to a professional.
The capacitor is onside the unit and you have to pull the unit out of the window and remove the cover to see the inside. You will have to discharge the capacitor before you start working around it. To do this take a screwdriver or other long metal tool with an insulated grip and cross the three terminals on the capacitor to ground. You then remove the wires to the capacitor terminals, taking note of which wire goes to which terminal.
Capacitors are rated in Micro Farads (marked by a μF symbol) and a dual capacitor, shown in the image, will have two ratings listed like this "35/5μF" or something very similar. You must have a multimeter that reads micro farads to check a capacitor.
You do that by placing one probe on the C or COM terminal and the other probe on the FAN terminal and it should read the small number of the rating, for example if your capacitor is rated like this: 30/7.5μF then the fan rating will be the smaller of the two numbers. In this case the 7.5μF (seven and a half Micro Farads). The HERM terminal is the one for the compressor and will be rated the higher of the two numbers, I.E. the 30μF on the capacitor. Check them both and of they are more than 6% lower than they are supposed to be then the capacitor is weak and needs replaced. If you read 0 (zero) then the cap is bad and needs replaced.
A new one should run you around $15 to $25 and you will need the old one to match up. This is the cheapest repair to make but may not solve your problem, if it does not then replace the whole unit as the price for any other part will cost as much if not more than a new a/c.
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