Top 10 Samsung RS2534 Side by Side Refrigerator Questions & Answers

Try to unplug the unit from the wall and let it sit for a few minutes then plug back in. May reset the door alarm lock out. Also, moisture in the air can be drawn in and freeze up the whole thing. That means turning it off with doors open for about 36 hours... Moisture is a killer in a freezer, freezes and blocks up every air circulation vent, etc.

I also had the ice tray stuck in the dump position. I unplugged it waited 5 minutes and pluged it back in. And the Ice tray moved back into the correct fill position, and the arm did drop down, But now it has not filled with any water. So now what should I try?

I just had the exact same problem with my Samsung RS2534WW Fridge from Best Buy. I think the freezer seal was not totally shut and something inside was pushing against the door, so it couldn't close tightly, but was not open enough to trigger the chime alarm. In the morning, the freezer temperature display was blinking. Later on it settled around 59 degrees. Here's what seemed to work for my particular situation: First I pushed the ice selector button, from cube, to crushed, to No Ice. Then I unplugged the fridge for about 10 to 15 minutes. Next, I plugged it back in and held down the Power Freeze and Power Cool buttons simultaneously until the chime sound is heard. I read this should reset it, but my display turned completely off. So, I held in the Power Freeze and Power Cool buttons again and as soon as the display lit up, I let go. The freezer temperature no longer blinked and settled at 56 degrees. Next, I opened the lower service panel in the back. First, I verified the (evaporator) fan in the middle was running (it was). It seems to pull air in on the freezer side and blow it over the compressor and out the fridge side. The air intake side had a lot of dust, especially on the condenser coils, so I vacuumed it out. Next, I opened the freezer door and noticed a build-up of ice around the freezer air ducts in the back (both exhaust and intake vents). I then used my hair dryer to thaw out the ice and wiped up the water. Next, I closed the freezer door and the temperature read 59 degrees. It stayed on that temperature for 8 hours and then the temperature started to drop quickly and it returned to normal. At that point I turned the ice maker back on and it has been working fine ever since. Apparently, the unit has an 8-hour cool and defrost cycle. I read someone else turned off (unplugged) their fridge overnight with the doors open to let it defrost. When they plugged it back in the next morning, all was working fine. If those tips don't work, you may have a problem with either your cooling system or defrost system, or it could be something as simple as a blown thermal fuse. Hope that helps!

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Here are my observations and solutions after 6 weeks of problems with my Samsung RS2533sw side by side refrigerator/freezer.

First problem was the refrigerator defrost cycle was not working. I first called a local technician to solve the problem. Big mistake, he didn’t know what he was talking about and it cost $60 for nothing. After calling around and not finding anyone else who would service my refrigerator, I worked on it myself. I finally diagnosed that the PCB (or PBA) main computer board had gone bad. All other refrigerator defrost parts tested ok with an ohm meter. Unplugging the refrigerator to ‘reset’ it for any length of time did not solve the problem. So I ordered a new PCB main from Searspartsdirect.com for $87 + SSH (part number DA41-00134A or D or F – don’t worry about the last letter, they are all the same part). The new part solved the problem.

One note about ordering parts, I choose Searspartsdirect.com, they were the second lowest price. They also have very good customer service, at least when I’ve dealt with them. They will send a replacement part if the part they sent you fails within 30 days (only once on electrical parts though). Partstore.com gets very bad reviews and for just $6 less than Sears, I wouldn’t risk the agony of poor customer service. Partselect.com is pricey, $150. Samsungparts.com was $20 more than Sears. All these stores are online because I could not find any stores that carry Samsung parts and it is even harder to find a repairman willing to work on Samsung refrigerators, I live in Dallas where there are 6 million people in the metro area and only 2 service men are registered with Samsung as being qualified.

I found out something very interesting before installing the new PCB main. In order to know if I could do it myself, I took apart the back compartment and took out the existing PCB main. I then reconnected it and put it all back together so at least I’d have a working freezer. I then ordered the new part. In the mean time between getting the new part and having disconnected the original main circuit board that interesting thing happened. I came out a couple of days later and found a pool of water on the floor in front of the frig. The original circuit board was activating the defrost cycle in the refrigerator and had melted a huge block of ice, now water on my floor!!! I had already ordered the part and couldn’t cancel it, so I kept the part and installed it anyways, rather than pay more postage just to get the cost of the part refunded.

So if you think you have a bad circuit board and unplugging the frig to ‘reset’ it doesn’t work, you might just want to try disconnecting all the leads to the circuit board and just stick it back together and see if that actually ‘resets’ the unit. Just the other day the freezer side completely shut down (freezer stopped cooling, water dispenser and ice maker quit). I disconnected the circuit board completely again (all 8 connections) and that fixed it. Now everything works as it should (note it may take several hours or even a day or two before everything starts to work normally). One important note before disconnecting the circuit board, UNPLUG THE REFRIGERATOR FIRST!!!

Another interesting thing I found out about the defrost heater for the frig, is that during the defrost cycle it makes a soft, low grumbling sound (I was trying to eliminate the heater as the cause of the defrost not working). I know this because while this sound was going on I disconnected the lead to the heat element the sound immediately stopped and when I reconnected the heater plug, the sound resumed. The heater plug is next to the fan plug in the upper right of the compartment in the back of the frig as you access it from inside the frig compartment.

Lastly to see if I can prevent having to disconnect the circuit board all the time (we have infrequent power outages here which I think have a lot to do with this issue), I bought a $10 surge protector just for the refrigerator. Hope that solves that problem and good luck to whoever has the same issues.

did that work?

you have to adjust the front legs untio the wheels make contact with the floor.. then after moving it adjust untill the doors are level with each other

you have to hold in the ice type and the childlock button for about 6 seconds and that will take the filter light off. To reset the ice maker open the freezer door and then pull out the ice bin. on the bottom of the ice maker theres a button that you have to hold in to reset the ice maker. Good luck and thanks for using FixYa

just unplug it wait 5 minutes and plug back in. If this doesn;t work, replace the mother board.
David

does anyone know what error code 3 is? Have the same problem, wont cool on fridge side freezer side is fine...

You should have ice by now.there should be a reset button the ice maker try and hold it till you see the ice maker advance. also make sure that ice maker is turned on.If these steps do not correct it set it up for service since it is new.