Top 20 Samsung RS2534 Side by Side Refrigerator Questions & Answers

Call warranty service if it's new

The mechanism (motor) in the tray housing is bad. Trying to manually turn the tray to dump the ice can actually do the harm to the motor. Not advised. You'll need to buy a new Tray Assembly.

Check ur door seals if air gets in it will condensate and accumilate water at bottom, also ur condensation plug line may be blocked or plugged with debris? hence water moister runs down to crisper. u can clean out the line with a thin wire or coat hanger but be careful

either the door seals have gone bad or it is not being closed correctly or the condensation line is plugged

Hi Jagdish freezing of the water line is a sure sign that the water tank is icing up - possibly due to a failing defrost coil. This is a common problem with Samsung - as I have just discovered! I had a different model from you but the same symptom- the line freeze, followed by the fan making a loud whirring noise and the temperature being all over the place. The water tank is in the right fridge compartment behind the bottom drawers. Take the drawers out and have a look at yours. Ice will be on the outside of the tank. If there is no sign of ice then the problem lies elsewhere. So.....if its iced up you should get hold of a coil replacement kit on Ebay and sort it. It is very straight forward to do and the company I got my kit from provided a link to their YouTube video showing how to do it. Go look here - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DO2wDd16OkA Before you do the repair you will need to defrost the unit, switching it off for at least 2 days until there is no sign of ice on the water tank. You will need to store food elsewhere!! It takes a couple of hours to replace everything and I also bought a couple of small, battery powered digital thermometers for inside each compartment. This allows you to check that the temperatures are where they should be and the system is working. These were a couple of dollars each and well worth it. The YouTube link should show you the supplier of the parts and they should be able to ship worldwide - just check your model number against their kits to find the right one. Hope this is of some help.

Thaw the freezer section out and while the unit is off lift the pan from the bottom rear slightly and slide it toward you. be careful because the pan will probably be full of ice and water and it will give you a cold shower if you pulled it hard.

you have to turn the cog on back of the ice bucket, so it will fit back into the gear socket. I have the same problem with my fridge

I recommend posing this question at... http://www.samsung.com/us/support/contact The User Manual is here... http://www.manualslib.com/manual/147351/Samsung-Rs2534bb.html

FREEZER /FRIDGE NOT COOLING: Optimum refrigerator temperature at or below40° F(4° C). The freezer temperature should be0° F(-18° C). Check temperatures periodically. Appliance thermometers are the best way of knowing these Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors in both fridge and freezer ( they should be checked for both ohms and for amount of current being put out as per ur model ), ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage. Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly. Often, the first thing that folks do when their refrigerator starts to feel warm is turn both controls on the coldest settings.This is exactly the WRONG thing to do.Turning the cold control to the coldest settingwillkeep the compressor running longer and make lots of cold air. But turning the air door to the coldest settingclosesthe airway to the food section. Lots of cold air is made, but most of it stays in the freezer section, and the food section actually getswarmer. Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator. May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad? Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next. Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance.. THE COMPRESSOR: If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of your refrigerator/freezer, then the problem is most likely the compressor, relay and or capacitor is overheating or not getting proper power and will not start.The compressor is the component on your refrigerator that allows your refrigerator to cool. If this component is not working properly your refrigerator will stop cooling. Most of the time the compressor is not the component that has failed. To check ur compressor with multi meter: Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, somes located next to compressor in a casing. You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur srtart winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground. Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms. Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity Lastly you should also check ur THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required. Read more:http://removeandreplace.com/2013/10/31/fix-refrigerator-freezer-wont-cool-freeze/#ixzz3WDEo5NDJ

check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit? ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!

The light display is either faulty or wiring has been tampered or affected. Check the light switch

that is coming from your fan check for any ice build up if none then I would replace the fan. u can find the part at applianceparts,com

Install a new water filter.

If the refrigerator wont stay on the start relay may be defective. This may have been caused by the leaking door that overloaded the system. The relay is a small box mounted to the side of the compressor and provides power to the compressor start winding for a split second at start-up to help get the compressor get started. If its defective the compressor may run off and on (a lot) or not at all and the refrigerator will not get cold enough. Fairly easy to do and reasonable

Not really a permanent solution for Samsung refrigerators with a evaporator inside the fresh food section. You will need to remove the shroud housing the evaporator and clean out the drain opening along with removal of any ice buildup. User Manual HERE Here is a link to a troubleshooting page that covers your model=> HERE You need to clean and make sure the sensors at base of evaporator are clean and function properly. Also insure condensate drain below evaporator remain clear of blockages ice/gunk. Parts breakdown can be found HERE. I am here should you need me, Thanks John Tripp Appliance 911 Contact Me Here

The Flex zone Temp sensor is the most common issue. check your model number suffix to make sure the part is correct: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/samsung-temperature-sensor-da47-00095e-ap4136048.html Best, Joe

The problem is either a clogged filter or low water pressure from the source.

You need to replace the water filter. They fill up over time. I change mine once a year

depends on why it is beeping usually then only beep when a door is open too long or temps too high

Whilst I have never worked on one of these specific units, from your description of the symptoms and circumstances it is very probable that the power supply that runs the control panel has not survived the surge that often accompanies the return of power after a blackout. Most likely failure will be any mains fuse or surge limiting resistor fitted in line with the mains feeding the supply. If you are very unlucky, the power supply itself may well have failed, but this is highly unlikely.Either way though you're going to need an experienced electronics tech to take a look at the unit for you. This is one of those awkward situations where a refrigeration mechanic would have no idea how to service the electronics, while many electronics techs would be very wary about pulling apart an unfamiliar piece of equipment like a fridge. Your best bet would be to call a firm who have experience in both white-goods (appliance) and brown-goods (electronics) servicing where you will have the best hope of getting a serviceperson who is across both disciplines. Then again if you have the necessary skills yourself to tackle it, you could try checking out the supply lines to the control board, but do this only if you have tons of experience in working with mains powered equipment!