to be honest by the time the brearings start to go the rest of the motor is on its last legs,,, you must ask yourself am i throwing good money at whats nearly a dead horse? for a start how old is it? how much use have you had from it? and if you had got a penny for every time its gone round how ritch would be? save your money buy a new one,,
Do you mean A.O. Smith motor? This is the back half of the Pool Pump. A.O. Smith motors are the most common motor drive for household pumps, so I believe that you can easily find the replacement. Just specify the horsepower (HP) rating, voltage: 220/110, single phase or three phase. Just send your e-mail comment for more info. God bless you.
The two copper strips in the back are the 'start winding contacts'. They must be closed when the motor is not running. As the motor starts, there is a centrifugal operated collar that will move forward toward the start winding contact and open the start winding in the motor (within 1-2 seconds). Make sure they are closed and 'zero ohms' resistance through them.
The second part of the question about the thermal protection circuit: The thermal switch is 'automatic reset' and will re-close after opening from an over temperature in motor winding.
If you read no resistance through wires going into motor, the thermal overload is probably failed open. Even if the start winding contact is open, you would still have a circuit through the 'run winding'. Check the connection on the thermal switch, (it's a round black plastic module with solder connections to wires coming out). Give it a good tap with a screwdriver, it may close for you, other wise it can be replaced (motor repair shop) If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/craig_3fa289bf857b1a3c
Bearing on new motor failed for some reason, Make sure the new one will last, check that all shields and water deflecters are in place and that pump seal is not leaking. New motor bearings should be sealed but water has a bad habit of getting into anytging we try to keep dry.
I recomend replacement of pump seal whenever pump is opened and impeller is removed, cheep insurance. Take your time and make sure everything is clean as it goes back together, don't lubricate the pump seal faces, the ceramic faces are designed to be self lubricating and anything (even fingerprint oils) on them can cause a leak.
on to be so hot you can barely put your hand to it. The motor likely has a thermal shut off device on it. If you see "thermally protected" on the motor nameplate, you are safe.
If the motor starts to run louder, you will want to replace the bearings and probably the pump seal to avoid a complete failure down the road.
You are correct the capacitor is only used during starting the motor. I assume the motor is getting hot and shutting off. Check the discharge side, filters etc for obstructions, it appears something is causing the pressure to go a bit high.
The wiring diagram should be on the junction box cover. You can go on line and download the manual with this information. There are a lot of A.O. Smith motors out there.
How long has it been since you have the new motor installed? Did it work after the job was completed? Very possible that the starter circuit has failed, usually when it comes on and runs but overheats and stops, the starter and run circuits are both engaged and that causes it to overheat. If you can read the wiring diagram on the motor and make sure it it correctly wired, you may save it if it is a simple loose wire. Otherwise it sounds like you will have to have whoever changed it come back and do a warranty repair.
The impeller is most likely set on a tapered shaft it is not easy to get off . You may need to get a puller to get it off. You can try adding some heat to the area with a hair dryer, don't use a torch. Be gentle.
Make sure that the supplied voltage matches your motor's setup. Most well pumps can either be configured to run on 120v or 220v. If your pump is set to 220v, and you are running 110v to it, it will run slower. Check that, and repost. I'll check back, and will help in any way thet I can.
Best regards, --W/D--
Question edited for correct spelling of maker 'Noen' to 'Moen'.
'Fix' as in it is leaking? Or tighten it down because it is wobbly, or something completely different?
Well, we can have a one on one seminar by the internet. I've been a pumpman for 20 years. I can share with you my experience (household pumps, suibmersible pumps, turbine pumps, gear pumps, piston pumps, dewatering pumps, mud pumps, trash pumps, mining pumps, solids handling pump, etc....) Just take your pick. Just send in your e-mail for assistance. God bless.
It is leaking due to a defective mechanical seal. It needs to be replaced. To replace it, is to take the pumpcase off by taking off the bolts that hold it. Then, take the impeller off to take the mechanical seal behind it. Put the replacement in, and reassemble the pump. Just get in touch with us by e-mail to get more assistance.
