20 Most Recent Samsung SMH7178STD Microwave Oven - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Samsung over- the- range Microwave oven[ SMH7185 STG] won't close.latch?

Since it's less than six months old, it will be under warranty.

You can contact the manufacturer for free repair.

Just look up their contact information in your owner's manual.

We see (and repair) this a lot. The problem is on the control panel, which we regularly repair nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in about a week or so.

This light failure often occurs when a bulb goes out and the filament shorts, or when the bulbs are removed or installed without first unplugging the oven from the power line. Either can cause such a failure on the controller.

This can often also affect the exhaust fan, cooling fan, turntable, and/or inside light operation, too.

Details of our service are at our Web site, along with a video showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

Feel free to contact me directly with your brand, full model number and symptoms.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller
[email protected]
http://www.microwavedisplay.com

sounds like the cooling fan has came adrift or stopped working , this will cause the magnatron ( the microwave generator ) to overheat tripping the over temperature stat ,so fix the cooling , but be sooooooooooooo carefull in there , microwaves + really high voltages , not really a job for a non electrician/microwave tech

This is usually due to a defective or loose magnetron causing electrical interference and disruption in the control circuit board. 9 times out of 10 this is usually this is a bad magnetron, the other time is sometimes a bad high voltage diode.it needs to be properly checked on circuit and repaired by a professional tech manually. Also Make sure you hear the fan is still operating in your microwave. Next is to make sure the air intake grill on your microwave is not plugged up with air borne dust and dirt.if yes clean it. Use an old tooth brush to help clean off the grille area
thanks,keep updated and please rate the solution positively

check the units internal ceramic fuse, its either a 10-15-20 amp fuse you can get rating off fuse body,they're available at most hardware outlets

First, make sure your microwave is plugged in and getting an ample supply of power. If the power is on, but it does not work check to make sure the door closes and aligns properly. Microwave door switches have metal terminals on the end that make contact with the door hook or latch. This completes the circuit which allows the microwave oven to run and without this contact the microwave will not operate. A simple misalignment might be breaking the circuit causing the microwave not to operate.
If you suspect that the thermal fuse has blown, call a professional appliance repair person. Even an unplugged microwave oven can kill or seriously injure someone. This is because there is a high energy capacitor inside the microwave oven case. If it is not discharged properly, you could be electrocuted.
If your microwave buzzes or hums but does not produce any heat, it could be a faulty defective diode, triode, high-voltage capacitor, or even a faulty magnetron. However, this problem usually means a bad means a bad magnetron, followed by a bad diode. Call a professional appliance repair person for assistance.
Warning: Microwave ovens are probably the most dangerous of consumer appliances to service due to the very high voltages (up to 5000 V) at potentially very high currents. If you have any doubts about your knowledge and abilities, replace the oven or have it professionally repaired.

regards
iversh

"SE" means you have a shorting membrane keypad.

If and when an oven is coming on or doing anything by itself, this is very dangerous and can result in a fire.

So until it is repaired, please leave it unplugged or leave the door open when it's not in use, and please do not leave it running unattended.

On most Samsung models, your best bet is to buy a whole new control box and replace it.

This is a simple do-it-yourself job.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number from the tag on the oven here.

At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

If you do not find information about your model or you need more help, note that FixYa is not currently notifying us Experts when Clarification Requests are answered.

So please post a NEW question, and please include your brand name and the full model number from the tag in or on the unit

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

"SE" means you have a shorting membrane keypad.

If and when an oven is coming on or doing anything by itself, this is very dangerous and can result in a fire.

So until it is repaired, please leave it unplugged or leave the door open when it's not in use, and please do not leave it running unattended.

On most Samsung models, your best bet is to buy a whole new control box and replace it.

This is a simple do-it-yourself job.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number from the tag on the oven here.

At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

If you do not find information about your model or you need more help, note that FixYa is not currently notifying us Experts when Clarification Requests are answered.

So please post a NEW question, and please include your brand name and the full model number from the tag in or on the unit

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

I would suspect the oven cavity's thermal cutout / thermostat, the magnetron's thermal cutout / thermostat, and/or the fuse.

We have the service manual and have uploaded it to our site here to help you.

Note that your model number's suffix may be different than this manual covers exactly.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

If and when an oven is coming on or doing anything by itself, this is very dangerous and can result in a fire.

So until it is repaired, please leave it unplugged or leave the door open when it's not in use, and please do not leave it running unattended.

You have a failing membrane keypad.

On some models, you have to peel off the old one and replace it.

On some models, you remove your controller and move your circuit board into a new frame with a keypad already installed.

FixYa is not currently notifying us when Clarification Requests are answered, so please contact me directly with your full model number from the tag on / in the unit and color so we can help you with free do-it-yourself tips and/or an estimate.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller
[email protected]
http://www.microwavedisplay.com

Hi,

Before i jump to the conclusion that you need to check Control Board, i have to think for Defective Electronic Timer.

Symptoms of Defective Electronic Timer are :-

SYMPTOM:
Any type of irregularities or inconsistencies in the display, such as: 1) missing, dimming, flashing, flickering (a slight fluorescent flicker is normal), or overly bright numbers or segments; or 2) the occasional appearance of illogical or mysterious Chinese-like characters (this may also be the result of improper or inadequate grounding).
SYMPTOM:
Any type of programming problems, for example: 1) Pressing one number or function and the panel responding with another; or, some pads program and others do not. These symptoms may be caused by either the touch panel or the control panel or both. 2) Limited or no programming functions. An exception to this symptom is the fact that some models made by Sharp will not program unless the stop switch is in the closed position. Therefore the oven door must be closed and the stop switch properly adjusted before the control panel will accept programming. 3) The control panel "locks up"; maybe one or more numbers will be displayed, but the panel will not reset or program.
SYMPTOM:
The control panel "kicking out" of a cook cycle prematurely, then possibly "locking up." The oven may have to be unplugged then plugged back in before the panel will accept programming. Possible causes: poor or improper grounding; or, excessive amounts of stray RF leakage, either from the latch side of the door, or from the magnetron within the component compartment. If removing the outer case alleviates the symptom, suspect leakage from the RF gasket or the internal structure of the magnetron.
SYMPTOM:
The control panel counts down too quickly or too slowly. Inaccurate timing may also be the result of an oven (of the type that can be converted from 50 to 60 cycles and vice-versa) being set for the wrong voltage or frequency for the area in which it is being used.
SYMPTOM:
The control panel will not start, or fails to count down when started; or, the panel counts down but neglects to activate the cook relay, triac, stirrer or blower motor, or other panel-controlled component. This may also be the result of a misadjusted or defective interlock switch, faulty wiring or related connections, or an open thermal protector or fuse.
NOTE: The triac or triac module (part of many control units) may be checked in several ways.

SYMPTOM:
Either all indicator lights are lit, or no display at all, as though the panel is "dead." (In the case of no display or a "dead" panel, ensure that the low-voltage control transformer is supplying the appropriate voltages. Or if the low-voltage transformer is part of the control board, check for the appropriate input (primary) voltage to the panel before judging it to be defective.)
SYMPTOM:
Either a continuous beep or buzz; or none at all.
SYMPTOM:
The timer buttons remain depressed, thus holding the oven in a continuous cook mode. Litton and some other models use individual pushbuttons that are soldered on to the printed circuit board. These buttons may stick in the depressed position due to inadequate clearance through the cutouts in the timer faceplate. In these cases, the circuit board position may be adjusted to equally center the buttons in their openings, ensuring that the cutouts and buttons are free of grease and residue. In more extreme cases, the size of the hole can be increased by filing the sides of the obstructing cutouts with a small, fine file (the circuit board must be removed first). Then clean any metal filings from the casting and re-assemble the timer, making sure that the timer board is centered so that the buttons operate freely.
Check and let me know.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

This is commonly caused by a turntable motor that has worn out and needs replaced.

The motor can be replaced by following these steps:

1. Unplug microwave.
2. Open oven door and remove glass tray and carousel ring.
3. Locate and remove the screws holding the bottom panel (under the microwave) in place. With the screws removed, the bottom panel should open.
4. Disconnect the connector plug from the turntable motor.
5. Reach inside the oven and remove the coupler. This is the small plastic piece that the center of the glass tray sits on. You may have to gently pry up with a flat screwdriver to get it to come loose.
6. With the coupler removed, loosen the mounting screw(s) to the motor and it should easily come out from under the oven.
7. Install new motor in the reverse order of the steps I just provided.

This is a very simple repair. A replacement can be purchased at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
appliancepartspros.com
pcappliancerepair.com
repairclinic.com

Prices vary so shop around for the best price. If the model number you listed this question under is correct, the part number is DE31-10172A. Most of these sites also have helpful exploded view diagrams you can use for reference.

If you have any questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this help you.

you can buy that parts at your nearest samsung authorised service center in your area.try to search in the internet the nearest ASC in your location.

The part is called wave guide which you can purchase from only authorised service centre

YES THERE IS AN INTERNAL FUSE OR DIODE YOU CAN CHANGE, BUT YOU SHOULD BE CAREFUL AN LET A PRO DO IT, YOU JUST DON'T WANT TO GET ZZZAPPPP WITH THE CAPACITOR THAT STORAGES HIGH VOLTAGE INSIDE TO PROVIDE THE MICRO WITH POWER, IT MAY SEEM LIKE A LIL UNIT BUT IT CAN HURT YOU IF YOU DONT DE-ACTIVATE IT RIGHT, NOT SURE IF THE DIODE WOULD BRING IT BACK BUT CHECK WITH A SERVICE MAN, BEFORE DOING ANYTHING I WOULD!

Since it's less than one year old, it would be fully covered under warranty. I'd suggest contacting the manufacturer to get it fixed free.

You can find your nearest Samsung-authorized service center here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

With the symptoms you have, I would most strongly suspect a shorted high voltage rectifier diode or a bad magnetron, or a loose and possibly corroded connection on the magnetron's terminal.

If it's fully covered under warranty. I'd suggest contacting the manufacturer to get it fixed free.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.