20 Most Recent Cooper Wiring Devices Cooper Decorator Lighted Decorator Switch Questions & Answers

The first thing you should learn about three way switches is how they work. Once you know how they work they are so much easier to wire. First: All neutrals (usually white) are tied together, which means the light bulb always has a way to return the current to the source (a complete circuit). Second: The hot (usually black and red) is what is opened or closed by the three way switches. The main mistake when wiring a 3 way switch is not to tie the common to the power source on switch one and not to tie the lamp black wire to the common on switch two. Notice that in the position above the lamp will be off. If you move the toggle down on the first switch then the power will be connected all the way through the the black wires to the lamp. If you move the toggle up on the second switch then the power will be connected to the lamp via the red wire. Either switch can then make or break the connection that allows the power to flow through to the lamp. There are also variations of this configuration when the power is supplied to the lamp first. or if the power is supplied to switch two, but the principle is the same. In both of the later cases you must use the white wire to carry power or the hot leg and is not the preferred method, but is approved by the NEC. Typically, when this is done it is common to place a black piece of tape on the white wire to make you aware that the white wire might be hot. If you need the schematic for these variations, feel free to comment and I will be happy to create them. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/bob_62dfa2f81bb55288

The internal light inside the switch should not pulse or flash.

How to wire switches

Exterior Outlet Cover Outdoor Outlet Cover

Choose the wiring option that suits your needs from the Cooper wiring sheet. http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/dam/public/wiringdevices/products/documents/instruction_sheets/ri06p_ri06pl_ri061_ri306p_ri306pl_ri101_instructions.pdf

Select from the Cooper wiring schematics at this link. http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/dam/public/wiringdevices/products/documents/instruction_sheets/149AW-PTA.pdf

Wiring diagram for various Cooper switches. http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/dam/public/wiringdevices/products/documents/instruction_sheets/149AW-PTA.pdf

A single pole switch/dimmer will have two black terminal wires. Power in on one and switch leg out on the other.

You have to hook up the ground wire or the light will not go off

This is the Cooper product #6107; Standard Series Occupancy Sensor, 3-Way, 500W/400W, Incandescent, Halogen, Fluorescent Rapid Start Ballast. Do NOT use to control light fixtures with CFL or LED lamps! Connect this switch by using the diagram for the #6107 Single-Pole or 3-Way (match your existing switch) linked below. https://objects.eanixter.com/PD365967.PDF

You can do that from the 3-way switch that has the hot and neutral wire (the line side switch)... connect black to black and white to white.... otherwise if neither switch has both hot and neutral, then you cannot get 120V Open following links for illustrations: http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-add-outlet.html http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html#3-way Gene If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html Gene If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

The switch is in series with the power and the pump motor. If the switch is across the power it will do what you state blow the fuse. It is also possible the pump motor is bad. I am assuming this happened when you changed the switch and the motor is OK.

Hi Dave, Great description, but you never mentioned what you are using the switch for. I can explain in detail, but I need to know if the switch load is coming from the same cable or an additional one.