20 Most Recent Leviton 15a 120v Sp Switch Questions & Answers

Not sure how it is wired now:Following link shows how to wire combo device to operate light and outlet at same time.http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-Cooper-277-pilot-light-switch.html#switch-outlet If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Flip the switch on! J/K. You usually do this on an inline basis. Run a white wire "Neutral" from the socket to the Neutral bar of your electrical panel. Then run your black wire "Common" to one side screw of the switch and then another black wire from the other side screw of the switch to the other terminal of the socket. It should work! Don't forget the copper ground.

Yes you can use it. But, attach a single bare wire from your switch ground to the J-box itself. Just that extra safety don't hurt nuthin.


Good Luck!

You have a three way switch in your hand ... which is used in conjunction with a second three way switch. The two black screws are called the travelers (and are connectedd together). The brass screw on switch #1 gets load (work) and the brass screws on #2 gets line (power).

If you are only turning a light on at one location, you need a single pole switch. Basically, you break the black wire with the switch.

If you need more assistance than this, post a comment.

Thanks for your interest in FixYa.com

Switches are not identified.
Single-pole switches are wired differently than 3-way.
Wire colors are not identified. Some boxes have red and black wires that carry power.
Add a comment and fill out details after studying image and reading information.
I am not there, so you can also add a comment and include in-focus photo of your switches that you posted on Flickr.

Following image shows single-pole switches, with typical black and white wires.
No bare copper ground wire is shown. Ground wires connect to green screw.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Single-pole-switches-in-4-g.jpg

So your new switch has 2 brass screws. No white wire connects to single-pole switch. One screw will have 1 black wire that goes to light fixture. The other screw will have 1 or 2 black wires that jumper or connect to the other switches as shown in image.

White wires are usually twisted together and covered with wire nut and pushed to back of box.

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See image:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/How-to-wire-2-lights-1-switch.jpg

You question does not make sense to electrician.
So add a comment with more detail.

Here's what I can say so far:
1) Single-pole switches have 2 brass screws plus green ground screw. Line and Load wires connect to either screw.

2) Double-pole switches have 2 brass, 2 dark, and green ground screw. Do continuity test with multimeter to check relationship between screws.

3) Some people say double-pole when they mean 3-way switch, that has 2 brass, 1 dark, and green ground screw. Dark screw is 'common' for both Line and Load wires.
Screws are color-coded and tell electrician how to wire device.

Electricians don't guess, they test. So if there is confusion, electrician will test wiring before connecting switch.
That's as far as I can go without more information.

Please add a comment and give full information what you are doing, and what color screws you are working with, and how many different cables enter the box, and what relationship is between single-pole and double-pole switch.

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Hello,
It really is very simple to change a switch without having to call a contractor.
1) Make sure the power is off at the fuse box.
2) Take the switch cover off.
3) You will notice one screw on top an one one the bottom remove both.
3) Remove both wires, again make sure power is off.
4)You will notice on the switch there is a gold screw and a silver screw.
5) If both wires are black it does not matter which screw you hook them up to, If the wires are white and black then the black goes to the gold screw and the white goes to the silver. If for some reason they are both white then it does not matter which screw, just as if they were both back...... Its that simple.

There are no wires on the switch. There are 2 screws. The hot wire goes under 1 screw and the switch leg goes under the other screw. The green wire , or ground wire goes to the green screw. If you don't have a ground wire in the box just forget about the green screw.

Do not break off fin.

FYI: Tamper resistant outlet must have prong in both outlet-holes before there is power.
This prevents child from sticking something into one outlet-hole and getting shocked.

You are installing combo switch and plug.
Device has dark screws (with break off fin), and 1 brass screw and 1 silver screw

Electricians don't guess, they test.
Let's test wires using ordinary tester.
Separate wires, turn on power.
Do not untwist wires that are twisted together.
Test each wire to bare ground wire. Tester lights up on hot wire.
Hot wire goes to dark screw.

Hot is identified.
Test Hot wire to all wires except bare ground wire, but including white wires that are twisted together,
Tester lights up on Neutral.
Connect neutral to silver screw.
If you do not have Neutral, then you do not have wires needed to connect outlet part of device.
Outlet can be powered using ground wire in silver screw, but this is not code and I am not recommending this action.

There is one wire left that does not light up when testing,
This is wire goes to load (lights, fan, motor) ... connect this wire to brass screw.

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The white wires from the two light fixtures get connected to the white wire from your power supply.
Then the black from your power supply goes to the gold colored screw on the switch. Lastly, the two black wires going to your light fixtures get twisted together with a third jumper wire. The other end of the jumper goes on the silver screw on the new switch.

Just plug in an appliance. Equal pressure from _both_ of the prongs of the appliance opens the plastic plates. Inserting a _single_ object into a _single_ slot (such as what a child may try to do with a metal object) will not allow the plastic plates to open.
That's the criteria for an outlet to be considered tamper proof anyway.

I can help you but need more information. Please be more specific about what you are trying to acomplish

You parallel the contacts then either one or both will turn it on. Both have to be off for the fan to stop.

A Leviton DHC receiver device can look like any other switch or receptacle so if you didn't install it or not provided a map then you'll need to locate it.

Likely the wall switch that originally controlled the light was replaced with DHC device and paired with the 16400 at another location. If you can't identify it, then removing face plates and devices may be the only practical method to locate it.

If your not comfortable with removing devices safely, hire an electrician.

https://www.mc-mc.com/ASSETS/DOCUMENTS/ITEMS/EN/Decora_6375_Catalog.pdf

It's two single pole switches with a removable jumper on one side. With jumper intact, you connect the hot feed to a either screw of the jumper which I belive are brass colored screws.

Then the two induvidual switch poles are the silver screws. Connect fan motor to one and fan light to the other.

If that doesnt work for you, take a picture of the switch and connections and another of wires in fan box and post here.

https://www.leviton.com/sites/REST/controller/LCDownloadController/download/DI-000-VPT24-02F-W.pdf?docurl=/en/docs/DI-000-VPT24-02F-W.pdf Yes, but appears to be non-serviceable... and its probably just a 3.2vdc lithium coin battery inside the case yet they decided to make it so you have to buy a replacement every 10+yrs. Crack it open and see (dill off any rivet heads).

what do you know as "regular " bulbs are they low energy or incandescent

adjust the sensitivity switch