20 Most Recent Fitness Quest Eclipse 1100 Hr/A Elliptical Questions & Answers

It's at the back of the machine on the bottom.

The AC adapters usually have the voltage specs on the power brick. Something like this can be made to work. It has all the different plugs and voltage settings. $12 90W Multi Universal Battery Charger AC Adapter Power Supply for Laptop...

Check it out. If you machine monitor shows and e-1 when trying to turn on. Take out the batteries and unscrew the four screws on the bottom of the monitor unplug it from the elliptical. Put the batteries back in turn on monitor the plug it back to the elliptical while still on and screw back in places. It worked for me hope it works for you too. Brian Pickens Long beach ca

What do you mean by "electrical connector?" You do have the console, right? Is it installed and connected? Do you mean the power supply block which connects to a wall outlet, instead? Actually, power blocks may prove a problem: Which ones go with which items?! (Often, they're marked with weird PRC or other brand names, etc.) The connector for the plug and wire for the block is at the rear, bottom of the base. I may look at mine, find the voltage and amperage needed, and direct you to the type of alternative power supply to order--from amazon, ebay, etc. It's great that online-purchase saves the day for this type of problem--these days!

http://www.academy.com/images/pdf/Fitness_Quest/Edge_Recumbent_Bike_491r.pdf

Mine went dead last Spring. I ordered a replacement part from Fitness Quest. I think the link is above. Actually, while I was waiting for the part, I reconnected all the wires on the whole bike and the panel worked. So I actually have an extra new working panel if Fitness Quest doesn't have the part for some reason and u want mine. Double check ALL the connections of the wires first. They come loose easily.
Nancy

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/201135397361?lpid=82&chn=ps

Should be C-clips holding the wheels on that the caps just pop over to hold everything on.

After about 4 years, one day my monitor just wouldn't turn on. After making sure the batteries were new, I took out the four screws on the back of the monitor and made sure the two wire connections were tight. They were, so I called Fitness Quest customer service (1-800-321-9236) from their website (fitnessquest.com). For about $120 including shipping they sent me a new monitor. It took me about a minute to undo the old, plug in the new, and now it works great! The flat connection with the multi-colored wires requires a gentle squeeze with a pliers on the sides while you glently wiggle and pull it apart. Look at the new connector to see how it should come apart. Good luck!

Long-winded: Once it's assembled, easy dis-assembly is not really then intended. Given that it's moving time, simply put it (whole) onto the truck or trailer--cover and protect with a secured drop cloth, tarp, etc.-- securing everything well to the side of such a conveyance with rope, cord, ratcheting cords, etc. Actually, the 1100 HR/A has small wheels--incorporated onto the front bottom cross tube--those are somewhat well intended for its transport. One then moves the machine with its rear facing somewhat upward and forward. The fixed arms--with the heart-rate monitor handles--are the ones intended for transport. Apparently, you desire instead to get this into an auto. Use your phone or cam to take pics at dis-assembly steps. Remove the console, disconnect the wires (perhaps tape them to the sides of the tube or label--thus noting orientation). Protect the console and its screen in a box with bubble-wrap, etc. Keep track of fasteners, too--put into separate marked containers, etc. You may remove the pedals, if you wish--put into a separate box, wrap, or otherwise protect. Remove the top tubes of the swing arms--manage those accordingly. Undo the main tube--don't remove it or the tubes connected to cranks--again protect all of that by wrapping with blankets, bubble-wrap, etc. Then, secure it well to the base with rope, cord, etc. Note that the cranks still may move somewhat (if unsecured)--be careful. You'll likely need to enlist the rear seat in a compact car--protect that, if necessary. (The trunk perhaps may serve, instead.) In any case, lIfting it in thus proves necessary--likely requiring assistance. Retrace steps for reassembly at destination. Transporting such gear by mere auto is a pain--many such tedious steps prove analogous for bulky home gyms, etc., as well. You'll need a dolly, hand truck, or assistance, perhaps. Very likely, lifting the bulk of the machine onto the seat or into the trunk proves necessary, as well. Accept the idiotic and now unnecessary, comic limitations of autos these days. Given mere incremental design changes over decades--along with bitterly resented modifications to satisfy wise statutes--automakers still push forcefully onto consumers the continually vapid and comic "fig-leaf" assumptions concerned with transporting nuclear families, quite poorly, too--mom and dad, with a boy and a girl. Moving it locally: Really, it may prove easiest and best to rent a small moving van or truck for this (Budget, U-haul, Penske, etc.)--thus, gladly you may forgo dis-assembly! Renting such a conveyance isn't that expensive--it's actually pretty easy! Indeed, you may note also that such truck-rental companies prove in reality to be insurance companies: Cleverly, they're merely disguised as truck and trailer rental companies! Even given such insurance features, it may prove quite worthwhile to rent, nonetheless. As indicated previously, and given that the rental truck has a ramp, enlist assistance for steadying and pulling/pushing the 1100 HR/A on--carefully roll it up and in--then, protect and secure! (Generally, such ramps prove overly (yeah, stupidly) narrow.) Perhaps, cheaper rental trucks may not even offer a ramp, unfortunately. To cheapen up long-distance rentals in the future, see if installing a hitch onto your auto proves possible and practical--rent trailers. Most typical rental trailers will manage the 1100 HR/A easily, too. Unfortunately, given the lack of a makeshift ramp, or stupidly expensive purchased rails, the 1100 HR/A then must be lifted on--the bed for a small trailer isn't nearly as high off the ground as that for a rental truck or van though. Really, a friend with a pickup or van (or a trailer) proves a good friend, indeed! Certainly also these days, several guys/couples--with trucks and vans--will perform this for you--for a fee. The truck-rental-insurance people also assist gladly--they'll note small 3rd-party companies and individuals who may assist, too. You'll likely need help, anyway....

It works with a DC power block cord. That plugs into a jack located at the bottom-rear of the pedal-housing.

Try cleaning (and/or fixing) the one you own: http://www.fixya.com/support/t24425996-get_timing_circuit_or_circuit_board Otherwise, it's virtually hopeless: The company failed.

It's at the rear and bottom of the pedal-housing. (Difficult to notice at first.)

Lubrication?: Graphite, silicone spray or grease?

Dave's solution-method is helpful--try to find parts that serve the purpose--perhaps even proving better. Given success, that's a really good idea! The company failed--thus, no company product support or exact company replacement parts prove available for us anymore. Try very specific, exacting online search queries for such parts (or, those analogous and proving even more intellgent) as you mention--search amazon directly in the same manner, as well. See if video sites offer any instruction. I hope that each of you may succeed. Dave and the original anonymous poster: Please keep us informed as you make any progress!

Note Ronnie's solution above to clean the sensors (that's somewhat hidden by promotions here). Fitness Quest failed: Thus company support and parts prove virtually non-existent. The company performed a huge recall: Fitness Quest sent the 1100 HR/A as the replacement machine to satisfy the recall--the overall expense likely proved too much for the company to bear. (The recalled machine had weak crank arms.) Fitness quest told me to send in the right foot platform to prove ownership and to trash the recalled machine. You might carefully try to clean the circuit board and LCD in the console. I've described this in detail. (Sorry about the grammatical errors in that--it was late.) http://www.fixya.com/support/t24425996-get_timing_circuit_or_circuit_board Note also my recommendations for obtaining a similar machine as a replacement. You may obtain a similar-level used machine (or, alternate gear and other fitness-related products) relatively cheaply.

The timing circuit has become unstable and the circuit board may be defective. Selection rates cannot be set and thus only a replacement controller will fix the situation.

You're quite correct: Fitness Quest failed, and replacement parts prove virtually non-existent. The company faced a huge recall for a machine which the 1100/hra served as the replacement. (Searching and auction sites only very rarely come up with such items as your console.) My story with the Fitness Quest1100Hr/A: Are you certain that the console's innards are shorted out? During the last few turbulent years, spiders seemed prefer lodging and breeding in the console of my same-model elliptical--the board proved filthy and covered with spider webs! I have a good background with self-building PCs: That involves fooling a good deal with circuit boards. Forgive me for not making a youtube video--frankly, I figured that my chances of success proved quite poor. (I did succeed, though: It seems a miracle.) Retracing your steps: It's likely a good idea to take a video of disassembly with your phone or other camera/videocam--then, you'll be able to note again which screws and parts prove necessary to replace--in the correct locations--upon reassembly. Put a good light overhead--or, have a good lamp nearby--decent lighting improves photo resolution. Tools needed: 1. Appropriate-sized Phillips screwdrivers. 2. Some type of very pure alcohol--95%, or bettter. Ethyl Alcohol ("Everclear" from a liquor store) may be the best choice for most non-pros. Old-fashioned Tape head cleaner is mentioned favorably, too--it's hard to obtain these days, though. If you must use a solvent, acetone is my favorite--it's really pure and evaporates really quickly. (I'd avoid solvents, though--they may hurt the circuit board or electronics. (Electronics jargon: PCB--printed circuit board) 2. A clean (new) toothbrush--or, better yet--a special brush, intended for cleaning from a hardware store. (These tend to be from China and are in sets of three--you need the brush with the nylon bristles, of course.) Why not both the toothbrush and the better hardware store brushes?! 3. Compressed air can. 4. Alternately, A techie friend, relative, or teen--knowledgeable with fixing PCs, TVs, phones, tablets, consumer electronics, or circuit boards--if practical. (Often, "gamer" whiz-kids qualify.) Removing the console from the machine: Use jar lids, small saucers, etc. to keep identical screws and fasteners together and intact--corralled! (Also, they actually might not lodge into your bare feet later!) Plates or smaller plastic containers, etc. will help you to corral the plastic parts--front/back plates, bezel, etc. 1. Unplug the power cord/power block from the console. (An aside: The power block (technically (and, fittingly) called a "rectifier") changes your wall's alternating AC voltage current to a far weaker "straightened" continuous DC current and voltage. Circuitry generally requires such weak DC power. Such circuitry naturally proves quite delicate and also really sensitive to static electricity. (Thus, the need for grounding oneself.) The need for DC current indicates why you see so many of these blocks prove necessary for electronics--if such a block is not necessary outside such devices, internal circuitry likely must achieve the same results.) 2. Unscrew the console from the top tube. (Larger screws here.) 3. Undo the connectors of the wires (three, I believe--two are associated with heart-rate monitoring) connected to the console. Keep track of the wires--if necessary, tape them to the outside--on the sides analogous to original connection. Don't touch any parts of the circuit boards or LED screen at this point. Dealing with the circuit board. 1. Find a place featuring clean hard-surface flooring (a clean kitchen counter top or a clean good table). Try to avoid carpet. If necessary, obtain an anti-static wrist strap--if pressed for a better environment, as described--waiting a few days from an online vendor like amazon, newegg, or tigerdirect may prove a good idea. (Radioshack may still have these, too.) 2. Ground yourself (and, the optional wrist strap) by touching the middle screw of a nearby electrical outlet--or touch a metal plumbing fixture. Alternately, if you have a plugged in desktop PC nearby (and have turned if off), touch a mounting screw for its power supply. Probably, something large and metal will do, as well. It's a very good idea to re-ground yourself often when fooling with the boards and other electronics (LCD/LED screen). 3. Unscrew the back plate from the console. Note any damage (burned electronics, etc.), dust, debris, and cobwebs. Note also the screws holding the circuit boards to the front plate and those attaching the bezel (the plastic "frame" at the front which secures the LED/LCD) to the front plate. It's an analogous and similar setup for laptops, PC monitors, phones, and tablets, by the way.) Certainly avoid breaking plastic parts--they simply may not be replaced. 4. Carefully, use the canned air to blow much or most of the debris away--try to avoid pointing the can downward too far--the air will then prove even colder, causing a little condensation on the boards/LCD. It's probably OK, though--such condensation likely evaporates pretty rapidly. 5. If you believe that enough debris proves left to short out the board, don't reassemble and plug it in to test--yet! (Please note step 6 (the LCD area), too.) Given that compressed air isn't enough, and, remembering to ground yourself (again!)--unscrew the circuit boards from the front plate. Note that the main (or, another) circuit board is attached to the LCD with a small ribbon cable. Undo the connector--noting the orientation of the relevant connector--it likely fits in only one manner, anyway. (Your phone or cam may prove useful again, here.) I believe that a small piece of tape (similar to duct tape) weakly secures the small ribbon cable to the LCD--simply peel that from the LCD--leave it attached to the cable. (Note the tape's purpose.) 6. Note the space between the front plate/bezel and the LCD. If you have major debris problems, undo also the bezel and the small LCD screen. (be gentle and "static-free," of course!) Carefully invoke the canned air again on the LCD--avoid condensation onto that. Keep track of your screws, fasteners, and plastic parts. 7. Given stubborn debris (or cobwebs) remain, ground yourself again, and work over the circuit boards gently with the brush and alcohol. 8. Let the ethanol or other nearly-pure alcohol or gentle solvent dry for several minutes. 9. Retrace assembly. Plug in the rectifier, and note function. Given that you (and, your pal(s)) can't get your console to work, loads of used ellipticals, treadmills, and stationary bikes prove available at used sporting-goods stores, thrift stores, online/craig/ebay, or free/inexpensive print classifieds ("Iwanna," etc.). The economy remains still at least somewhat poor: Such beasts prove too heavy to ship economically--thus, users must sell or donate locally. Moving, deaths, illness, quitting, space, and shedding keeps prices low. (This includes instructive content--really, almost anything exercise/fitness gear-related--resistance-cords, weights, benches, etc.) Replacement may prove a better solution than trying to find someone to fix your console's board(s)/LCD. (Besides, such pros likely prove not well set up to test the board(s)/LCD--certainly, without the rest of your machine!) Frankly, such pros these days prove too busy fixing phones, tablets, laptops, enterprise-computing/networking, and expensive LCD/LED TVs/pricey home theater electronics to fool with this. Thus, it will prove difficult and expensive to find a business willing to take this on--it's far too rare a request--a specialized and discontinued item, as well. If your console proves actually broken--"biting the bullet" by obtaining used or new likely prove better options.... I know that this appears long and complicated--once you get into it, it's much easier than this seems! I'll keep track!

Same as above, have an Edge 491 with E1 and need to fix it

http://dl.owneriq.net/a/aa14e475-e7a4-4fa0-885f-c0583806fe0a.pdf

I remember having this problem before. Are you sure that you can't find a manual online? Sears online parts may offer a pdf. The arms face inward in the brackets--not outward. Switching (main) arms appears to be logical....