20 Most Recent Stanley Factory Reconditioned Bostitch U/RN46 1 1 3/4" Coil Roofing Nailer - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Hi

Here are a few things to check, you may have already checked some of these.

Electricity...Compressors will run best with full 115Vot 15AMP/Or 220V electrical supply from a circuit, over the shortest electrical cord as possible.

Air Leaks..Place your ear close to the compressor and listen for air leaking, if you hear air that is not normal and means you have to locate and repair whatever it is that is leaking.
Check the air unloader valve... The air unloader valve will blown out air when you turned off the compressor, that is normal.
But it should not have air leaking out of it all of the time. If so then it is faulty and in need of repair/replacement.

Valves...If either the intake or exaust valves fail, breaks, or fails to seat, then your compressor will run 24 hours a day and never build up to the correct pressure for shut-off.

Gaskets...Check to see if your gaskets have failed.
You could have a gasket failure between the pistons and you will never know it because it shows no external air leak.
If this situation happens then the air will only cycle between cylinders and never build up the correct air pressure.
One way to check the gasket is remove the air filter, then put your hand over the intake.
If correct then it will **** you hand against the intake.
If the valve or valves have failed then you will feel the air sucking in and blowing out.

Piston Rings and Cylinder...The piston rings could be stuck,broken, or worn and not allowing the correct pressure to build up in your tank.
It will contribute to not shutting off the compressor motor thru the use of the pressure switch.
A worn cylinder will also contribute to the problem of pressure build-up.

Pressure Switch...Check for air leaks at the pressure switch, it has a rubber diaphram that can fail and leak air out of the system.
Please take time to rate me

Usually the first part to fail on conpressor is the capacitor. Remove the cover to the compressor and pull the capacitor (check that motor turns freely to make sure not bearing locked). Have the capacitor tested with meter that gives digital reading. The cap needs to test within 95 percent of stated capacity. Try to purchase a generic cap instead of factory part to save money (found on ebay or refrigeration /motor parts company). Purchase same mfd as printed on old cap and same or higher voltage(higher voltage rated cap will be better quality but larger). Good luck

The safety foot assembly pushes up on inner trigger lever which in turn pushes on the trigger valve. If the trigger valve firing pin is slightly shorter than the old trigger valve, or the inner lever is worn from use, the inner lever will not push the trigger pin all the way in. Examine the trigger and the roll pin that holds the trigger for wear and check that the safety is pushing up on the inner lever. If the trigger is worn replace or repair with metal type epoxy filling in worn spots and use a new roll pin.

The part #A640050 works on models CAP2040P-OF Type 0 and CAP60P-OF Type 0. If you know what model you have I can look it up for you or you can look it up on servicenet.dewalt.com

Stanley Tool Works (who owns Bostitch) just merged with Black and Decker (who owns DeWalt) so you can find all the Bostitch parts breakdowns at the same site now.

Common problem. You can either buy a complete trigger valve or an oring kit and replace the orings in the old valve. It is usually a thick seal that breaks. Most aftermarket oring kits replace it with a regular oring which lasts much longer.

plugger inside nail gun is stuck take to a authorized Stanley dealer for service

This behavior is a good indication that one or more of the o-rings has a defect and needs to be replaced. See the link below for more information about the gun itself. Enter the exact model. Post any additional questions here should you have any.

Dan

Link: http://www.fixya.com/support/r5812776-bostitch_nailgun_dis_assembly_assembly

you need to replace rubber o ring on the trigger shaft pretty easy fix o ring is real small to deal with but doable automotive part stores usuly have assorted size in trays you can take old one out match its size .

ADJUST THE REGULATOR !!!!!!

You could have a combination of both, but most likely worn cylinder. Easy to check. Remove cover, with compressor running spray soapy water on all fittings including under pressure switch. Repair as needed. If no leaks, unplug compresor from power and turn crank until piston is at top of stroke. Look for scratches / worn area close to top of cylinder. If worn, replace cylinder / piston ring (pressure is leaking past cylinder/ring). If it looks ok, then most likely problem is head gasket or reed valves. Parts are available at www.bostitch.com Good luck!

For nailer to retract properly the lower bumper should not be missing any pieces or cracked. The upper bumper should be pliable and complete. Pull the cylinder and check for a groove cut into cylinder with a series of holes. This groove should have a snug fitting oring. It should not take much force to move the piston within cylinder. If all seems good, re-assemble using silicone paste lube available at Lowes or swimming pool supply. Easy test. With air connected and nails removed, dry fire gun against coiled rubber hose. Keep holding the trigger and keep the gun against hose. The piston should stay down and no air should leak from gun while holding in this position. Lift up gun and the piston should retract. If air leaks from bottom while holding in this manner, lower bumper is not sealing, if air leaks from top, then upper bumper is allowing air to leak from head valve. Good luck

The brown liquid you are getting out of the compressor is water with rust in it from the inside the air tank. Somewhere on the bottom of your air tank there is a valve you need to open from time to time to drain the water from your tank. If you are getting rusty water from the air outlets you probably have a lot of water in the tank. If you can take the compressor outside, with pressure in the tank, where the water won't stain anything and slowly open the valve to drain the tank.

i also own a bostitch and it works great, the pressure regulator knob on mine is red not sure if yours is the same color but just turn this knob until you get the nail depth that you need , it should be near the pressure gauge, a quarter turn of this knob at a time is recommended until you get the pressure you need, i think you turn it in the loosen direction to get more pressure

Mine had the same problem.
One of the reed valves in the head had broken off due to metal fatigue. Take off black plastic housing with 5 screws along the bottom and one bolt under the handle (the front only). Unscrew the four allen headed screws on top of the compressor. Unscrew the discharge line from the head. You'll need part # AB-A640050 which is the valve plate assy. and possibly AB-9007012 which is the intake valve located in the top of the piston (if damaged). About $18 including shipping from Bostitch.

You might just have an overloaded circuit, what else is on that line?

Need more info on the make and model before I can find a wiring diagram for you.