20 Most Recent Stanley Factory Reconditioned Bostitch U/RN46 1 1 3/4" Coil Roofing Nailer - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Here are a few tests for you to try. You will need a piece of rubber or coiled up old hose.
First open side door and remove nails. Tilt gun head down then up again to check if piston is loose in the cylinder. The piston should stay in top position. If piston drops to bottom of cylinder replace piston oring or apply some coils of teflon tape under oring to expand oring slightly untill piston stays at top but still can be pushed down cylinder. If piston stays at top connect air to gun and with side door open contact gun to rubber firing gun noticing the feeder movement. With very rapid firing of the gun, the feeder should move back and fourth just as fast as the driver moves. If the feeder seems to move slower than the driver moves then check/replace spring in feeder. If spring seems strong enough in your opinion then problem is restriction in the air supply to feeder. You will need to remove the two 6m allen screws at front of gun and split gun apart to check restriction at the oring sealing these two parts. Sometimes debris traped at oring (white oring) will restrict air to feeder. Good luck.

This can happen for a number of reasons.

1) Insufficient air pressure (should be set to around 100PSI)

2) Hitting another nail or other extremely hard surface (old roofs are known for this)

3) Defect in the gun or lack of lubrication.

Since this is a reconditioned unit, I think that the gun is probably fine. Verify that the compressor has the correct pressure and that the hose is large enough in diameter to deliver sufficient air to the gun. Check the CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) rating of the compressor/tank combo against the requirements of the gun.

Keep us posted,

Dan

I would return it for an exchange, sounds like the firing valve is sticking or you might want to check for a jammed nail in the nose area. UNPLUG from air hose first.

There can be a number of reasons for this. A little more info is needed though (See below). This symptom can be due to a lack of lubrication, the plunger being stuck and not in the fully retracted position, etc.

1) Can you hear any air leaking anywhere?
2) Can you see the location of the plunger (drive pin)?
3) Is there any reaction to the trigger? WIth the trigger held, and hitting the roof, is there any air release or anything at all?

Thanks,
Dan

This is a very popular gun, very light and powerful. Skipping nails is not a common problem. Here are a few things to check that would cause the issue. (First remove air hose and nails.) Worn piston oring (piston will be in the down position). Open side door and check that piston is at top. If oring ok, check feed spring under feeder claw. If spring is in place, push feeder in manually. It should be very difficult to move feeder shaft. If it moves easily then spring inside feeder chamber is broken. If ok, connect air to gun, leaving side door open (nails removed) and bump fire gun against hard rubber (or coiled rubber hose ) very rapidly. While bump firing rapidly, look at feeder moving back and forward. It should be moving very quickly keeping up with speed of driver. If it appears to be moving slowly compared to driver there is an air feed restriction to feeder chamber. Check for debris in small air passage to chamber. Remove two allen screws holding nose of gun to body and examine the small white teflon oring between nose and body(part #149885). Sometimes this oring traps dirt and grime or just simply gets pressed so tightly that center hole is restricted. You must use the correct teflon oring here because the nose and body fit so tightly together that a rubber oring will close air path. Good luck.

the air is leaking at the triger button.

If this unit is new to you, return it for replacement or refund. If the repair is up to you, remove the head (top) of the gun and check the seal (either an 'O' ring or gasket) for damage. Check the head itself for damage or warping of the seal face. Try placing a small ring of Permatex silicon gasket sealer on the head, let cure for a little while until it sets-up, and reinstall the head. Tighten the screws evenly and firmly. Hope this helps!

You should check the check seal (61) for damage or weakness as well as the driver o-ring (15). The driver should travel through the cylinder with some resistance. If there is no resistance and you can see light around the edges of the driver this is the problem. Also inspect the cylinder for scarring or damage. If there is any scratching it should be honed out or replaced. You can replace the two above parts inexpesively for about $5 and see if that corrects it. Otherwise I would suggest using a rebuild kit RN46-RK which is $27.

the purple O ring is split I would take it back or if you want to try and fix yourself let me know and I will help

The hammer could just need to be oiled or you could have blown a seal in the gun which is not expensive to fix around 20.00 . A lot of times when my gun jams on a nail it gets stuck so the hammer won't go down. I just use something thin that will fit on the hammer and take a hammer and just tap it back into place.

The spring is located under the head valve.Turn the head upside down put in the spring and than the head valve

There are lots of models. Some have a trigger lock and some have a 5 position trigger. https://www.google.com/search?q=stanley+spotlight+manual ..

This can be caused by a couple of things: - Material is too hard and causing the nail to stress - Nails are too long causing the same thing - End of driver is worn or chipped causing the driver to ride over the nail and pop the nose open.

It could be the o-rings for the feed piston but a bad feed spring will also cause problems. that would be the easiest place to try if you can find a spring. Many of the parts for these are becoming NLA (no longer available) from Bostitch. One problem they had in the feed piston area was chipping the nose where the orign seals the piston stem. There is a small bumper on the inside of the feed piston cap that goes bad and allows the piston to travel to far back which slams the feeder against the lower housing and can chip it where the piston goes through.

Talking in the past tense about compressor working fine before. Is it working fine now" If it is, pumping the air tank full, and air not coming from the end of the hose, the end tool valve maybe jammed, or the hose plugged. (sometimes the inner lining of the hose separates from the reinforcing mesh and clogs the hose) To test this theory, take the hose off from the tank (when no air is in the tank), start the compressor and see if the air is pumping out freely. If it is then the compressor is indeed fine. Take the tool of the end of the hose, then reconnect the hose and restart the compressor. This will tel you if either the hose or the end tool is at fault.

Stanley TRE550 Owner Manual

Hello, Sean - I hope I am safe to assume you need to find a replacement knob for a Stanley brand Pro-Ceramic Utility Heater with Pivot Power Model 675919. If so, I refer you to Lasko, the company which manufactures that heater under the Stanley brand name. This is the number to call the Lasko Parts and Accessories Customer Service Department to find out if they supply (sell) replacement knobs for your unit: 800-233-0268 (Monday - Friday, 8am-5pm, Eastern Time zone) Best wishes

Try to remove the hose, then see if air comes out when you switch it on.

check for a failed start/run capacitor otherwise take the motor to a repair shop or get a new motor