20 Most Recent Craftsman 42 in. Deck 19.5hp Lawn Tractor - Page 6 Questions & Answers

on the linkage to tighten the belt one of them is adjustable look for a rod with a lock nut on it

Part Number AYP 583300901 supercedes 407129 for the DANA 7088 transmission. As for replacing it usually requires opening the transmission case as they are usually recessed in the casing. Reseal case with RTV Ultra Grey sealant

If your simply replacing it with a new one or installing an inner tube you take a sharp knife and cut back side off. Don't cut completely as you want to catch that piece before it falls inside the tire. Then you simple pull the stem breaking that piece off, catching the back piece as it falls. If you wanting to put back in a new stem for tubeless use you need a t-shape valve core wrench. After you place the new stem in the hole you thread the tool on and pull the new stem into place.

I just did this on my MTD 42". It's not that difficult technically, but it can be a wrestling match getting the belt on. If you have the operators manual for your machine there should be a section that shows you how to remove and install the belt. There will also be a diagram that shows the routing of the belt. Follow those directions and you should be good to go. However, if you don't have the manual you can still change the belt. You'll just have to use a little more brain power. If the old belt is still in place that's a good thing. Proceed to the next paragraph. If not some internet searching or a trip to your equipment dealer is in order. You need a diagram of the belt layout unless you think you can figure it out which you likely can if you are somewhat mechanically inclined. Block the wheels of the tractor and raise up the front end and support it with jack stands or blocks. Make sure everything is secure because you don't want it to fall on you. Now lower the mover deck so you can see the drive belt. Technically the "easiest" way to change the belt is to remove the mover deck but that's just more work IMO. Now that you can see the drive belt, carefully study just where it goes around the pulleys and idlers. Pulleys should have a V-groove and idlers will be flat and ride on the back side of the belt to keep it in place. There are probably one or two studs or bolts sticking down in close proximity to the main pulleys. These are there to help keep the belt in place. It probably wouldn't hurt to draw a diagram of where the belt goes at this point. If the belt is not there remember that the narrow part of the belt is designed to fit into the deep grooves of the pulleys, inside the retaining studs/bolts and then the flat backside of the belt fits against the flat idler pulleys. One thing to remember to do before removing the old belt and trying to install the new belt is to make sure the clutch is released so the tension is off of the idler pulley tensioner that makes the belt get tight and makes the tractor move. Now, generally I like to start putting the belt on the smaller of the two V pulleys. I think it's easier to work a tight belt onto a bigger pulley than a smaller one. But not always. Put the belt onto the pulley that is hardest to get to first so that when you are installing the tightening belt onto the second pulley you have as much room to work as possible. You will probably want a screwdriver with a large flat blade for prying the belt and a second set of hands is a big asset. If not you'll be crawling from one side of the mower to the other several times. Once you think you have the belt on correctly push on the clutch and watch what happens. Make sure nothing is binding or rubbing. If everything looks good start the engine and listen carefully for odd noises. If there is no squealing or grinding you should be good to go. Good luck!

We need more information to help you. Is it that it won't turn over with the starter or that it won't fire to start when the motor is cranking over with the starter ?

Should be relatively simple. There are 4-5 cotter pins that connect the mowing deck to the bottom of the mower. Pull the pins, push the metal rods out, and remove the deck!

half chocked is not enough gas usually. Probably a partial clog in the fuel filer. replace it, if one of those bronze cone things on the tank nipple, cut it off and put an inline filter on the fuel, take the carb bowl off, clean the float and needle, then reassemble all. If it still aint right you got to rebuild the carb. I recommend just buying a new carb, a lot less hassel.

1. check the fuel filter.and the breather vent in the fuel cap

air it up and spray it down with mild soap and water mixture (gallon of water with a teaspoon of dish soap mixed in). where it bubbles is your leak. spray whole tire (tread and sidewall), the edge of wheel where tire bead is seated to it and the valve stem. If there is one or 2 leaks on tread, you can plug with automotive tire plugs. More than that and you should buy a tube.

check the safety switch on the seat

this might be something as simple as a safety switch , your gonna need to look at three that im sure won't allow it to start if not in working order . they are the occupant (seat) switch , next is the clutch depressed switch and last is the mower deck engauge lever switch all of these are safety switches to keep you from starting engine into a dangerous condition , also ck your cables to battery (both ends) clean and tight no wiggle and most important Plus(+) to plus side of battery and neg (-) to ground of frame , don't feel offended i suggest something so basic you can't belive how many mowers i get thru here with the battery installed backwards