20 Most Recent Husqvarna Chain Saw 20" Bar - Page 9 Questions & Answers

A 20" bar unfortunately does not narrow it down. Fortunately both the .325 pitch chain and the 3/8 pitch chain sharpen at 25 degrees and you should have one of these chains. Hope this helps.

http://auctions.overstock.com/HUSQVARNA-142-E-SERIES-40CC-CHAIN-SAW-W-BLADE-GUARD/Home-Garden/item/44322491

This link will take you to it.

Chain stretch is usually caused by inadiquate oil/ or incorrect oil to the chain, aim the tip of the bar at a clean peice of timber, you should see a good line of oil spray from the tip of the bar onto the timber.
Very dirty or dusty timber will also dry the oil out on the chain, and cause chain stretch.

This sounds like an air leak. Checking all of your hoses and making sure the crankshaft seals are good is where to go after adjusting the carburetor to factory settings.
remove the muffler and make sure the engine does not look like this:

Consult a gold certified Stihl dealer like www.arcolawn.com for parts and tools to repair all of your Stihl equipment.
Good luck

The part no. is 530069415, available from any Husqvarna dealer, or try the web.
Good luck.

There should be a pinhole in the cap. Clean it out real good, and you should be OK.

--W/D--

Usually it's a fuel delivery problem. Check the fuel filter in the tank, and the muffler for plugging. Check the fuel lines for decay or other problems. Make sure the carburetor fasteners are tight. Finally, it may be necessary to remove, disassemble, clean, and re-kit the carburetor. Be sure to have fresh fuel mix in the tank. Hope some of this helps!

chances are that the settings are not set up right try opening the choke when you start it and leave it for about 3mins idling the slowly close the choke 3/4 quarters

if its not that im fairly sure its the spark plug i know you are going to say its new but some retailers put in very cheap plugs

John

Absoulutly not, this will end in disaster, try fitting an additional cylinder base gasket, and move the ignition module out to 0.5mm, make sure you are useing a 50-1 fuel oil mixture, i have done this many times and it will make things better, good luck.
ADW

The thread is RH, loosen the nut un till its just flush with the top of the crank threads, use an soft metal drift, copper, allly, brass etc.
hold the fly wheel and strike the top of the nut with the drift it will pop the fly wheel off. you may need a hand. if it wont come off use a screw driver under the fly wheel and pry it up when you strike the nut..Dont hit the nut /shaft without the soft drift...you will destroy the shaft.

the clutch thread is LH..

Check the fuel filter, air cleaner, and muffler for plugging. Inspect the fuel lines for decay or other damage. 1-1/2 turns CCW each will establish a basic setting which should allow the engine to start and run. When the engine is warmed up, pull the throttle full on and adjust the H needle CW until the engine starts to speed up. Final setting is when the engine 4-strokes lightly unloaded, but immediately 2-strokes when cutting. Release the throttle and adjust L needle CW until the engine idles fairly well, but should 'follow the throttle'. If turned too far, the engine will 'gasp' when throttled up. If you need reference turns, then close each needle while counting the exact turns required after the above procedure. Normally, the H needle is the only one required to be adjusted somewhat for different temperatures and altitudes, but always retain the above 4-stroke, 2-stroke relationship. Hope this helps!

This is a product number not the serial number.

The tensioner is in the crankcase, insert the screw through the hole in the crankcase, thread the square plastic block onto the screw followed by the metal adjuster pawl, the plastic block shold come all the way up the thread and lock into the recess in the screw.

Its not easy, start by cutting a long point on one end of the new tube, as best you can push it into the top of the tank, grab it with a pair of long nose pliers through the fuel filler hole and pull in.

Hi,
There are only a few things that it can be....

Are the nuts loose that hold the bar when the chain comes off??? If so then change the nuts...they are not staying tight...

What is the position of the tightening dog when the chain comes loose...?? has it jumpsed out of the slot in the bar???? The bar and/or the dog can wear and they bar pushes back past the dog...

Is there a build up of dirt anywhere behind the bar that may allow it to move a bit and allow the bar to slip past the dog???

If it was me and I was using the saw for a living then I would be changing the bar, tightener and the nuts....then clean everything really well and your problems are over...

heatman101

Under normal working condition the saw is designed to run for approx 25/30 minutes

Yes you can, part no. 508912180

Check the fuel lines for decay or other damage. Check the muffler for plugging. Make sure the fuel is fresh and thoroughly shake the container just before each tank fill to prevent oil starvation. The carburetor may need internal cleaning--check the diaphragm in the lower chamber for flexibility and no holes or cracks. Check the small needle valve that the diaphragm controls for condition. Check the spark at the plug for blue, snappy spark. If weak, the ignition module pole clearance may need to be reset--turn the flywheel magnets under the module poles, insert a thin business card into the gaps, loosen the module screws and allow the module to contact the magnets. Tighten the screws, then turn the flywheel somewhat to release the card. Finally, turn the flywheel one full turn to make sure the pole gaps do not close further. Hope some of this helps!

ether idlied to high or chain to loose