20 Most Recent Husqvarna Chain Saw 20" Bar - Page 6 Questions & Answers

The 345 only has two wires in that area, not sure either of them were green, however there is an earth cut out wire and an earth return wire, the earth return fits onto the spade conection jut above the cut out red switch, the other wire pushes into the side of the red plastic switch, there is a moulded section in the plastic that the terminal just slides into.

Send me an e mail address and i will send a pdf file of the machine.

The original carb was a Walbro compensator carb, they replaced this carb with a Zama which transformed the running.

The carb screws have anti tamper sleeves on ( one red one white ) to adjust the screws you need to draw the caps back, you can do this with a small self tapping screw, screw it into the centre of the cap, when it hits the adjuster underneath the cap will draw back as you carry on screwing it in, only pull the cap back far enough ( approx half way ) you can then remove the screw and insert a 2mm flat blade screw driver through the centre of the cap, the adjuster underneath will now turn, the reason not to take the can right off is because the screws are only 2mm across, and it is near impossible to adjust the saw whilst it is running.

Sprockets are a wear item. Just like your bar/chain. Depending on the brand of the saw, it should be readily available as it is designed to be replaced easily and quickly.

I guess you should try the cheapr option first, and replace the fuel hose, to replace the hose first remove the air filter, now the two retaining nuts foe the filter back plate, now remove the two cross head screws in the foot of the bracket, remove the two studs that secure the carb ( 7mm ) now pull the fuel hose of the carb and put it to one side, open the fuel filler cap and drain the fuel, using a pair of long nose pliers through the filler hole grab the fuel hoseand pull it down into the tank, once through pull it out along with the filter, take a new hose, **** the pipe up the middle approx 2" and take away one half, feed the now cut end through the hole in the crankcase and into the hole in the tank, using the ling nose pliers again through the filler hole grab the hose and pull it on through, trim the end and re fit the filter.

Probably going to be a paired piston&cylinder http://www.ebay.com/itm/HUSQVARNA-359-357-CYLINDER-AND-PISTON-KIT-47MM-/140580138020you will need to replace both.. remove your muffler and see scorched(black streaks) piston, fused rings. Remove air filter and carb to see scored cylinder wall(on hot side)

http://www.grounds-mag.com/mag/grounds_maintenance_sharpen_chain_saw_2/

Some saw manufactures design their oilers to only work with their bars. Are you running the mfg suggested or stock bar? Chain? Stihl Chain is designed to use 30% less oil because of oil groves cut into each drive link directed to the rivets. So if your running an aftermarket bar/chain, the oiling ports may not line up. Especially if it oils with no bar & chain

http://www.ecrater.com/p/6962460/024-026-stihl-325-sprocket-w-needle-cage-38076-2?keywords=stihl%20caged%20needle%20bearingthis bearing(on the right) fits inside the sprocket (on the left)allowing minimal friction. Without it, the sprocket spins so fast it would melt all the plastic around the sprocket(seen it)

Two ways to do this, either remove the hand guard from the saw and use this to engage into the brake mechanism, pull it firmly back to load the brake, or remove the clutch and drum, once removed the brake will readily fit back on the saw, and you can load in the normal way, to revove the clutch, fit a suitable screw driver into one of the cut a ways in the clutch centre, and strike it with a hammer to jar the clutch off against the compression of the saw.

3/8 chain uses a 7/32 file, and .325 chain uses a 3/16 file, unfortunatly both are available in 20".

They were offered with 13,15,18" bars, most were sold with 15" .325 pitch 058 gauge part no. 508912164 bar ans chain 501840464.
Regards

The early machine had big issues around oiling, there was a new crankcase with strengthening around the bar bolts, a new pump with better sealing, a new pump delivery pipe to stop collapsing, all these parts are retro fittable, but should be a warranty job.

Remove the chain and bar assembly. Start engine--should pump oil from oiler port where the bar fits on the engine side. If oil comes out, then possibly the bar-oiling passage in the bar itself is plugged with dirt or sawdust--blow clean with compressed air. If no oil comes out from the port, check the pickup tube inside the oil tank. Drain the oil into something and fish the pickup tube end out with a hooked wire. Replace if collapsed, cracked, or loose.

If you take the bar off, and then run the saw, does oil come out of the saw? If it does, then the oil pump is likely working O.K.

If the oil comes out of the saw and does not make it onto the chain, it is possible that the oil exit slot on the saw, and the hole on the bar are not lining up properly. This happened on my Husqvarna 141 saw. The oil was coming out of the saw fine, but it never made it to the bar and chain. As a consequence the chain was always dry and very, very hot.

The other saws we use, always have plenty of oil on the chain. I think Husqvarna may have made a design flaw on some of their saws, and the exit point of the saw and the entry to the bar are not properly aligned. I wonder how many saws this affects.

You must first remove the covers on the saw to expose the fuel line and fuel tank. You may have a fuel line split or disconnected. Posiible fuel tank crack also. Lines and tank are plastic. If line is bad you can purchase at your local lawnmower shop. Very low cost.