20 Most Recent Husqvarna Chain Saw 20" Bar Questions & Answers

OK - let's work through this. If you need choke all the time then the mixture is too weak when the choke is off. Putting the choke on literally chokes off the air supply to the engine by lowering a small shutter across the entrance to the carburettor. That means either there is too much air getting to the engine (don't see how!!) or too little fuel. So, how do we get too little fuel? You could check for this as follows;
- before we do anything tricky let's check the obvious things - is there a fresh fuel mix in the tank? Petrol does go off, especially if there is 2 -stroke oil added to it. If it's over a month old from the pump mix up a fresh batch. Is the idle speed set too low so the engine stalls when the choke is knocked off? You can see this screw to one side of the carburettor (you need to remove the top lid in front of the handle on the chain saw, and then remove the air filter to see it). Turn the screw half a turn clockwise to speed the engine up. Be warned - if the engine starts it will run faster than normal and that means the chain may start to spin around. Also - check that the chain brake is off (i.e. the safety lever is pulled backwards, and that the chain is free to move BEFORE you attempt to start)
- is the fuel filter blocked? To get to this, make a wire hook (e.g. thick fuse wire) and gently hook out the fuel filter that's sitting at the bottom of the fuel tank, and take a look at it (be gentle - you can damage the gauze if you are clumsy). Does the gauze look clear? I.e. if you dip it into petrol it will freely run into the filter and of course drain out when you lift it? If not, replace it.
- next stop - are the jets in the carburettor set right? I don't have a service manual for this (and I know the manual says unhelpfully "return for service") but basically you will have seen two holes on the side of the chain saw (below the handle) two small 0.8cm holes; one marked 'L' (for low speed) and the other 'H' (for high). Put a fine flat screwdriver down the L hole and feel for the slot of the low speed jet. Once engaged turn it out half a turn and this will enrich the mixture - if this seems to help and you can start the engine then adjust the L jet in or out until the engine is idling comfortably. If it idles too quickly then you can also turn down the idle screw (see previous paragraph).
- no luck still? Well, it could be fuel pump or a blocked jet in the carburettor but this really is a 'return to the service centre' task!

Good luck!

Your seeing the problem. Air in the fuel lines usually caused by a cracked fuel line or a pin hole in the primer bulb. Until you can stop the air bubbles by either replacing the actual primer bulb or fuel lines your always going to have the hard to start problem. This can also cause the engine to run lean at high RPM settings and eventually burn a hole in the piston. You should repair the fuel problem ASAP. If you do not find any fuel line / primer bulb problems then it is time to start looking at the carb diaphram.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,

Kelly

Your saw didn't get a hit, she long of tooth?
Husky 262 manual
http://weborder.husqvarna.com/order_static/doc/HOUS/HOUS1998/HOUS1998_1018843-26.pdf
The adlustment is on page 31. It is probably similar. HTH
Lou

It really depends on which model 455 rancher you have. The "455e" models have a lever on the chain cover that you lift and turn counterclockwise in order to remove. The regular 455 models have two nuts that you remove in order to take the chain cover off. There is also a chain tensioner on both. On the 455e model you turn the wheel down to increase tension and on the 455 you turn the screw below the foremost nut to tension. Remember that you want to just snug the chain to the bar. You should be able to rotate the chain around the bar by hand.

I used applman08's solution. A few pointers:
0. This problem occurs when you take off the side cover while the brake is set. So after you fix this, don't do that again.
1. When removing the clutch, place the screwdriver in the notch next to where it says "off" and tilt the screwdriver down so that when you strike it you are applying a clockwise shock force that is almost horizontal (assuming your 455 is on its side).
2. DO NOT remove the spring! There is a plastic housing that basically holds the brake mechanism in place (secured by 4 screws). If you take that apart, and then take out the spring, you will be learning how the brake works and spending some time compressing that spring and getting it back in. You'll have to come up with something clever to get the spring in depending on tools available.
3. Going back to 1. - get that clutch off, put the side cover back on, getting that brake lever lined up with the very-difficult-to-grab three-toothed mechanism for engaging the spring. Tighten down the side cover, or hold it snug with one hand while you lever the brake handle with the other. You will hear a satisfying snap as the braking mechanism (with the spring I told you not to mess with) resets.
Note: You can probably reset the braking mechanism by manually turning that three toothed gizmo but it's really hard to grab and the brake handle fits it perfectly. The key is you've got to turn that about 60 degrees.
Good luck, this was an annoying problem.

SOUNDS LIKE THROTTLE NEEDLE STUCK OPEN CHECK THROTTLE LINKAGE STICKING OR RETURN SPRING

http://www.mediafire.com/download/vl6tkv4b69eyvvh the tuning screws are located on the left hand side of the saw, by the top cover

Turn the saw upside down so you're looking at the bottom. There will be a little hole with a flat head adjusting screw on the clutch side of the crank housing with an arrow and a + and - sign with an oil drip logo.

late 70's into the early 80's.

Carburetor is gummed up. You can thank Ethanol gas for hat

First check the lines to make sure they are clear of chips. Use only bar and chain lube. If this does not work, the pump may be bad and need replacing.

The 51 does not have an adjustable oil pump.

The lines fit tight to prevent leaking. You must disconnect the fuel filter and pull the line out. Cut the new line end "v" shaped to allow you to push back into tank. Long needle nose pliers will complete the job.

The 240 runs standard a 3/8 " pitch H36 low profile chain. The proper size file is 5/32" (4.0 mm)

Fuel tanks are always closest to the operator. The oil tank is the tank closest to the chain.

There could be a couple of issues, wear in the engine or a clogged fuel or air filter.

My 372 xp did that and when I talked to the repair shop they even showed me. There is a fiberglass gasket that is used to mount the carburetor to the engine. I have no idea on how this happens, but I saw it with my own eyes. The gasket had actually folded over. They replaced it with a rubber one and have had no problem since. The saw was hard to start, would run as long as I didn't try to cut anything and when I did it would open up and then die. I could be giving wrong information, but that sounds exactly like the problem I was having.

this is a sure sign of a fuel blockage some place !! id start with fuel filter and air filter and then look closely at fuel lines for signs of collapsing when running (CAREFULLY!!!!!) then move on to cleaning and resetting carb jets remember choke richens fuel/air mix so if it needs choke to run then it's being restricted in fuel supply

Sounds like dirty carberator or carb needs adjustment. How is the spark plug?

Hi check the clutch the springs may be broken and blocked the shoes