20 Most Recent Hobart Welders IronMan 210 MIG 500304A Welder - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Looking at the Hobart manuals, that is how they set them up at the factory.One way to make a change to that is to wire in a solid state relay or solid state Triac and pick up an energizing voltage off of location RC2-1 or RC2-2 on the control board when the trigger is pressed, or as an alternate location from the feed motor through a resistor and rectifier. Once you know if the voltage goes low, or voltage goes high at your point of signal, you pick the contact you want on the relay so when the wire is feeding out, the gas is flowing. and when it is not feeding wire out, the gas is shut off.

http://www.hobartwelders.com/om/6digit/o235281b_hob.pdfThey do not list the board level components usually because they just replace the entire board doing field repairs or refurbishing.If you replaced the SCRs, if you used the same brand or equivalents, there should be some visual clues on the board, or just check to make sure the incoming power goes to the anodes of the SCRs and the output to the motor is the cathodes.

Usually I would start by replacing the head components first to ensure that its all clean and that I would be able to initiate an ARC when I needed.if that failed i would then disconnect the unit and ensure its clean INSIDE.Note that this is usually done by a qualified person as high voltage can kill !DO NOT USE COMPRESSED AIR UNLESS IT IS DRY AIR, NO OIL OR MOISTURE AND PRESSURE CAN BE REGULATED DOWN TO AROUND 20 PSI !!Vac out heavy debris first and blow out remaining in a ventilated area preferably outside.Check the boards for any signs of overheat and inspect further if overheat issues are noticed. esp. on the track sides of the pcb's.Check internal connections too while you are there for any that may seem slightly melted or warped with heat.Other than those simple measures you are looking at tracing with meters etc.But as is normal there is no MODEL !Oh well another BOT question no doubt.

Hi:
Here's your link for the owner's manual:
http://www.hobartwelders.com/om/0400/o494f_hob.pdf

Regards,

Hi:
Have you disconnect the gun's power plug? If the wire and gas stop flowing by doing this action, then your problem is the gun's trigger. If the machine continues to feed gas and wire with the gun disconnected then yes, it is the pc board.
Good luck.

Hi:

If you see rust on the wire then you should stop and change the gun's liner, change the contact tip and clean the feed rolls. Rust can accumulate inside the gun and make the wire feeding a problem.

Hi:

call your nearest Praxair location (www.praxairdirect.com) and order it by phone or by the web site.

Depends where you are they will charge you delivery by ups.

Hi:

Looks like your speed wire control went bad, this is just a rheostat that with normal use the coil will wear off and lose contact. Don't know the year of your machine but this item it is an inexpensive item to replace and you can do it yourself. Part number is MIL 000101 and the cost is around $150.00. If you need the owners manual let me know.

Have a good day!!

Hi:

have you tried to by-pass the gun switch by disconnecting the gun cable (not the lead) and using a paper clip to by-pass the gun?. If the motor turns then you need to replace the gun switch if not probably the PC board fuse it's blown.

Most welding supply stores have brushes.
But if they are obsolete you can make brushes from brushes that are close in oversize and proper configuration of connection

Hi, this symptom is indicative of a Power supply problem, and it is trying to start, and shuts down, and then tries to start again, the PSU is either itself faulty, or some "Other" component is faulty, and causing too much current draw, and the PSU, then attempts to shut down. The motor working, isn't that relevant, as the motor drive circuit is separate from the actual welding electronics so to speak. And may or may not work, has no real bearing on the actual welding electronics.
Honestly though, unless you have experience with these or other units, and welding electronics, really the best thing you can do, and it WILL work out less expensive, and less of a hassle, is to contact a Hobart repair center, and have them give you a "Quote" for the repair.
The only "Other" alternative, is to use the "Shotgun" approach to repair and swap boards, with the hope of getting lucky and actually repairing it. Ensure you DO isolate the actual l"Fault" though, otherwise, you may simply "Blow Up" the "Replacement" board(s). Obtaining a service manual, for your exact make and model, would be a great benefit if DIY was the way to go.

ensure the welding temperature switch is fully seated in its detents and not in between numbers or heat settings it will not run if inbetween.......

Part number you are looking for it is HOB 119264, You can order it thru any welding store near you. Try Praxair.

If this was useful to you please vote. thanks...

I have a suspicion. Remove the sheet metal housing (unplugged of course) and look for a large cylindrical object, probably in a clamp on the floor of the unit and it will have two large terminals with fairly heavy wires attached. It could be ~ 6-7 inches high and 3-4" diameter. It will have markings on it indicating capacitance and voltage and could be around 20-30,000 uFd and 60-70 volts. This is a filter capacitor and I have replaced several of the (naturally) Chinese units in other welder brands. Figure on $40-60 for a new one of these pieces of ****. They often do not even meet the given values by a large percentage but unfortunately, no American mfrs. have survived to compete with them. I have several large US made capacitors that are 30-40 years old that measure nearly like new.