20 Most Recent Weller TC201T: Soldering Iron For Wtcpt, 42 Watt - Page 2 Questions & Answers

I am looking at my Weller Portasol P-1k unit right now. They use standard flints. Go to almost ANY store you can think of and they sell lighter fluid and flints (usually sold in a pack of 5). About a buck or two.

nice to know what is wrong with it

Yes, 9 times out of 10 its' the thermal coupler.

If this is the dual trigger Weller gun and your tips are held in place by either set screws or by locking nuts, Just loosen both of the parts that are holding the tip to the gun and then retighten them back up. Soldering iron tips that appear to be tight might not be and this will insure that the tip is indeed tight and also cleans up the connection of the tip to the soldering iron. Oxidation from heating and cooling will cause a tip to not get very hot. Loosen the tip holder and then retighten it. Hope this gets you going again. Dennis

http://www.portasol.com/downloads/Portasol-Catalogue-US-Sept2010.pdf

Unless you are only interested in soldering tin/lead joints... I sincerely believe that answer to be "No"... What kind of metals were you planning on working with would be a GREAT PLACE to start... and the figure out the temperatures you will need to achieve.. A word of extreme CAUTION. Working surfaces have to be able to withstand EXTREME TEMPERATURES. Cement will come apart with explosive force... and getting any water onto molten metal can also have catastrophic consequences... so a little supervised experience would be well advised place to begin...

Kindly follow the manual or contact a dealer near you.

Take off the tip, clean the threads, and replace tightly.

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Google it ,usually free

Due to the size and the metal, you have to use a micro torch. I would take it to a jewelry shop that fixes rings and pay to have it done because the heat can warp and discolor the metal.

These were very simple and sturdy soldering guns [I still have 5 or 6 of them in various sizes] They basically have a transformer wired so that the heating part is basically a short circuit of the large low voltage secondary winding [very low voltage] and because the tip is higher resistance than the rest of the heat producing end, it gets hotter sooner. The secondary is just a single loop of the tube that holds the tip. Usually the only maintenance is to loosen and re-tighten the tip mounting nuts so that there is a good electrical connection [no connection = no heat; poor connection = poor heat] There may be another small secondary winding that provides power to the light but I think the older ones just attached the lighting wires to the large secondary. The primary [line voltage] winding of the transformer is switched such that the higher wattage powers the lesser resistance part of the winding and the lower wattage powers the higher resistance part of the same winding. In other words there is a single wire for the primary that has a tap near one end of the winding for dual heat. If the two windings to the switch are mixed up the higher heat will just be at a different trigger position; if you don't like it, switch them around. Also check the connection to the non-switched wire from the cord for a good connection. The switches are still available, at least for the newer models; do a google search for Weller soldering gun switch or Weller 7324 Untitled Document [for a switch supplier] Weller Switch Dual Heat Gun 1 Each 7324

You might want to check the iron itself with an induction power tester to see if it is getting any power to the tip. This type of tester doesn't require any dis-assembly just close proximity to energized circuits.