Coleman Powermate Portable Generator PM0435003 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Yes, If there is room I would use a spst toggle switch. This is a very common switch. Try ebay, HD etc. If there isn't a similar switch can be found at ebay. Good Luck

10w -30 will be fine

Does the flywheel magnet still have a strong pull on it?

Check the Coleman Service manual which is available at

The carburetor needs to be rebuilt - the float valve is stuck open.

It generally has a long rotor through bolt accessibile from the generator end, this forces the generator rotor onto a tapered shaft on the engine. Once removed the through bolt slide a long bar ion the hole and screw the bolt back in, that will force it off the taper

I would put anything that screws into it

Engine speed is too high, and/or excitation capacitor is bad

Take the through bolt out of the end of the alternator / rotor shaft. it is a long bolt. The shaft from the engine is tapered and unlikely to just pop off. Find a bolt that will screw into the end of the rotor shaft (hardend) find a metal bar that will slide into the rotor long enough so the bolt tightens down on the bar, it will pop the alternator off the tapered shaft

You cannot, speed is propertional to voltage on these, as they have capacitor voltage regulation. Do not use this for powering home appliances, it is common to see this design and not a problem. If you add load and it will decrease but so will the frequency

where i can get a Coleman carburator powermate 5000w

a 10-30 multi weight oil should work fine, in the winter, if it gets cold there, a 5-30, if it gets super hot in summer, a 10-40

Thiis usually caused by a failure of either the float valve or the float itself. Bad float needle valve: If some dirt or other particle gets stuck on the needle valve or seat, the valve will not be able to completely close and fuel will continue to flow into the bowl and eventually overflow. A new needle valve and seat are < $5.00 on-line.Bad float: If the circular float gets a hole in it, fuel will get inside and the "float" will get heavy and no longer float on top of the fuel in the bowl. Because it doesn't float it will not rise high enough to push the needle up into the seat and keep extra fuel from entering the bowl. A new circular float is < $10 on-line.

Powermate generators usually have a shutoff mounted to the bottom of the fuel tank. There is a knob at the bottom of the connector where the hose is attached to the fuel tank. Screwing it in (clockwise) shuts off the fuel.

What you are describing sounds like a load of bad fuel, the white smoke may be due to that. I suggest you drain and check the fuel, let it settle out and see if any water appears at the bottom of the sample.

Quite often related to restriction in fuel delivery. Start with checking in tank for debris and/or plugged screen to inlet for fuel line. Then check fuel line for kinks, collapsed, debris inside etc. If you have an inline filter, change it. If all's well to carburetor, then perhaps ports may be dirty, clogged. Easiest thing from there would be to add some fuel system/carburetor cleaner, maybe a little more than directions state, and run some of that through, mixed with some fresh,clean gas. Run until tank is 1/2 full or so, then allow to sit a day or 2 if you can. Then run again until tank close to empty, and add more of the mix and run again for a while, letting cleaner work through. You may end up having to have it disassembled and cleaned and repaired properly but, for the time and price of a bottle of cleaner or 2 , it's worth a try.

Make sure all the springs that go to the carb and govenor are in place. some of them are just used to keep the linkage tight so there isn't any play. Another possibility is that the mixture on the carb is not set right. If you have an adjustment for the mixture, you can try to adjust it. With the engine running and warmed up. Turn the main jet adjustment screw (usually located at the bottom of the bowl) in till the engine RPM's start to drop. Then back it out til the engine runs smooth again. I would back it out another 1/4 turn and try it there. They tend to run better if they are set a little on the rich side.

Another possibility is bad gas.

If it hasn't been run and it had gas in it when it was stored, chances are the carb is messed up. When gas sits for a long period of time it turns into a varnish like substance. You can take some WD-40 and spray into the air inlet with the air filter off. Set the choke on and see if it will fire. It wont run very well but it should fire. If it does rebuild the carb.

It is a twist-lock plug, just push it in and turn to the right. Link to the manual:= http://www.powermate.com/pdfs/2007/11/17/manual_pm0435003.pdf

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.
Download the parts manual (bottom of this post) and look at the brushes item 10A located in the center of the end bell. Gain access to the brushes in the end bell. Using a 9V battery with 2 wires taped to the top of the battery touch the wires to the brushes by touching them to the brushes with the generator running. DO NOT make a direct connection. Just touch the brush terminal wires with the 9 V battery wires. PULL off the 9 V battery wires as soon as you notice an output. Otherwise the battery can be damaged or the battery wires burn.
What you are doing here is flashing the field. I recommend you turn on the output power switch and connect a light to the generator so you can see the light being lighted if the generator starts producing power. If your first and second attempt do not get an output reverse the polarity that you use to touch the brushes. The AVR (regulator) item 108 is notorious for failing due to corrosion on the board or the AVR capacitor fails from non use. You will have to remove the end bell to gain access to the AVR.
After removal of the end bell clean off the surface area of the rotor / armature slip ring commutator. with 220 grit or higher sand paper. ( I doubt that you have a bad rotpr or stator. I suspect the capacitor on the AVR has failed or that you just need to flash the field as described above.

Alternate method of field flashing.
This tip comes from the Briggs & Stratton Customer Education Department. As an alternative to flashing a rotor winding with a battery applied to the brushes, an electric drill may be used. Follow these steps to flash the generator:

Plug the corded electric drill into the generator receptacle.
If the drill is reversible, move the direction switch to the forward position.

Start the generator

While depressing the trigger on the drill, spin the drill chuck in reverse direction. This will excite the field and the generator will now produce electricity. If spinning the chuck one direction does not work, try spinning the chuck in the other direction as you may have the reverse switch positioned backwards.

Use caution not to get your hand or other materials caught in the chuck. As soon as the field is excited, the generator will produce power and the drill will turn on.

The reason this works is because the electric motor in the drill will act as a small generator when spun backwards. The magnets in the drill's motor induce a voltage into the motor windings, which is fed back through the trigger, cord and into the generators receptacle. From there it goes into the power winding of the stator. The voltage going through the power winding creates a magnetic field, which is intensified due to the iron core of the stator laminations. The rotor intersects this magnetic field as it is spun past the power winding, thus inducing a voltage in the rotor winding. Once current flow is present in the rotor winding the rotor has been flashed.
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Operators manual:
http://www.powermate.com/pdfs/2007/11/17/manual_pm0435003.pdf

Parts:
http://www.powermate.com/pdfs/2007/11/17/parts_pm0435003.pdf