20 Most Recent Flotec Corrosion Resistant Shallow Well Jet Pump 1/2HP, 8GPM - Page 6 Questions & Answers

First and foremost, check if your water pressure is between 20 to 40 psi. If it is, there is no reason why
you could not have water in your faucet. Check your
faucet and your pipelines for closed valve or a clogged
pipeline. However, even if the water pump pressure is
only 10 psi, it should reach your faucet. 10 psi pressure is equivalent to 23.1 feet vertical height.
So, please check it up and get back to us by e-mail.

Yes, you can. Just buy the replacement part, and mount it up. Everything is visible. Mount the replacement the way the old one was mounted. Just send in your e-mail for further assistance. God bless you,.

Try fixing the crack with JB weld or Tech-Steel before replacing parts.

I had a similar problem and as a last resort took the pump apart and cleaned it and the jet. It's a very old pump but works ok now.

To be very effective 60 meters horizontal and 20 meters
vertical distance from a water source free from pipeline leaks.

You have a water logged pressure tank. Replace

If heating up, the motor thermal switch is opening to shut down the motor; this is by design. During the brief run time does it pump at all? It sounds as if there may be mechanical issues on the pump itself and the motor (from the extra draw) is heating up and shutting down. I'd look in to the pump to see if anything had failed within it.
I hope this may have helped,
Tom

There is dirt in your presure switch. Take apart switch clean diaphram and reinstall diaphram upside down. That should do it.

Sounds like the injector nozzle is plugged. This nozzle is directly inside the influent line on single line jets and down in the well on two-line jets. I'm assuming you have it primed correctly. If this happened suddenly the it'd definitely the injector nozzle. It it was a gradual process over time then I would say it's either a badly worn nozzle or worn impeller.

Put a mixture of 1 cup bleach and water in the tank, let it set 24 hours, rinse well and see if that gets rid of the smell.

You didn't say what it smells like.......

WAS YOUR NEW PUMP DUAL VOLTAGE? AS IN 115VOLT OR 220VOLT. IS IT WIRED FOR THE CORRECT VOLTAGE? NEED MORE INFO IF THIS DOESNT FIX. HOPE THIS HELPS. JODY

Sounds like a seized bearing. Many times the motor boosts its torque output to get over the initial inertia. and if the bearing seized, the motor running at normal capacity would not be strong enough to rotate. thus causing the rotor to stall and hence the motor getting overheated.

If you mean to say that your pumps suction line was either severed, pinched or in other words running with no fluid passing through it to help dissipate the heat then yes. That is exactly what burned your pump up.

Yes, most motors are thermally protected. It is usually bi-metallic, and resets itself.
--W/D--

I had a similar pump some time ago, with an AOSmith motor on it. Check your motor type and model/frame size and shaft size (which should be on the data plate). WWGrainger (check your white and yellow pages, or on line at WWGrainger.com ) for your motor. A quick check on Ebay with a search for 'flotec' showed 2 pages, but not exactly what you're looking for. Check there, and look in their 'stores'. You may also find one there. I bought my motor as a rebuilt unit through my local well and pump supply. Check there too. May save you some dinero. My rebuilt motor lasted a long time, as good as a new one.
Best regards, --W/D--

SOUNDS LIKE A CRACKED SUCTION STUB OR LOOSE THREADED FITTING SUCKING IN AIR.

OR THE CHECK VALVE IS FAILING AND ALLOWING THE WATER TO LEAK BACK SLIGHTLY OR ALL THE WAY BACK. YOU CAN ALSO ADD A FOOT VALVE AT THE END OF THE PIPE.

LONG SHOT, BUT THE BLADDER TANK IS CHARGED WITH AIR AND MAY HAVE A HOLE IN THE BLADDER CAUSING THE TANK AIR TO ENTER THE SYSTEM. SHOULD RUN OUT QUICKLY THOUGH. HOPE THIS HELPS, JODY

YOU MAY HAVE A LEAK DOWN STREAM CAUSING THE LOST PRESSURE. YOU MAY HAVE TOO MANY OUTLETS IN THE SYSTEM. IS YOUR INLINE FILTER STOPPED UP? DO YOU HAVE A PRESSURE GAUGE RIGHT AT THE PUMP WHERE YOU CAN SHUT A VALVE AND SEE IF THE PUMP IS WORKING LIKE ITS SUPPOSED TO? HOPE THIS HELPS, JODY

There should be a check valve or foot valve at the bottom of the line to prevent water from running out of the well pipes. If this valve is stuck open, then there will be no pressure in the line and no water coming up to the pump.
This web page may be of some help:
http://www.rootsweb.ancestry.com/~wvwhp/shallow_and_deep_well_jet_pump_troubleshooting.htm

If this is a new problem that has just started
The GFI mite be bad or the motor mite be going bad Need to check the amp draw of the motor this will tell you witch is the problem

A flash from the motors internal starting mechanism is normal; a spark shooting out through the endbell is not. If it is that severe, the motor is starting to fail and you should have it serviced at the end of the season assuming it lasts that long.