Top 20 American Standard Kitchen Faucet 6310 020 White Easy Touch Pull-Out Kitchen... Questions & Answers

IF IT WILL NOT COME OUT THEN THERE HAS GOT TO BE A SMALL SCREW OR SOMETHING HOLDING IT ON. IF AUCET IS TO TIGHT IT WILL NEED TO BE LOOSENED JUST A BIT. THERE MAY ALSO BE RUST OR DIRT IN IT AND YOU WILL NEED TO TAKE IT OFF & CLEAN IT WITH VINEGAR OR RUBBING ALCOHOL THEN PUT IT BACK ON.

What exactly do you mean by 'not come out'? Is it coming out at all and has it ever? How long has this been happening? If it is coming out slowly or barely, but has worked properly at one point, then the problem is most likely the cartridge. It gets full of lime deposits and sediment. What I would suggest is, if you are handy around plumbing, disconnect the sprayer handle and the cold water hoses and blow them out, use canned air if you are able. Then try pouring vinegar in and run through a few times, catching the drainage in a cup or something. The vinegar breaks down the deposits and is always a good maintenance idea.If that doesn't do the trick,my second step would be to call American Standard. Their customer service is awesome! They will most likely send you a replacement or replace your entire faucet. If you just want to get it working and don;t want to take the time to do the other, you can get the replacement cartridge at most larger home improvement centers. G'luck http://www.plumbingwarehouse.com/images/american-standard-kitchen-faucet-easytouch-6310.gif

You have a water valve or back-flow preventer slamming closed, somewhere...

Take the red/blue plastic plug out and use a hex key to unscrew the handle.

Without seeing the faucet or knowing any other details, it sounds as if the o-rings or seats are bad. Most likely twisted or misaligned if the problem is such that it won't turn off. If the faucet assembly is loose, these small components can come out or become misaligned. Write down all the information you can about the specific brand and model faucet, then take this down to your local hardware professional and ask for the rebuild kit. You may need valves in addition to seats, springs, washers and o-rings (depending on the model). Most companies have kits for doing these rebuilds. Check also the seal made at the seat. If this is not tight, water will flow. Be sure you ask which, if any, special tools are necessary to remove the faucet assembly and various components. These tools are sometimes standard and sometimes specialized or unique to a certain brands/models (ie: handle pullers, seat pullers, valve wrenches). Final tip: before doing any faucet work, always remove the aerator to allow any debris to pass through the line and flush thoroughly upon completion before reinstalling the aerator.

I had the same issue with an American Standard faucet that I installed new 6 months ago. The diverter can be the issue if you have a sprayer attachment. Try unscrewing the sprayer head from the hose it's attached to. Now run the water full pressure with the hose pointed into the sink, obviously :~). After running the water for about 1 minute, connect the sprayer head back onto the hose, make certain the flat rubber washer and ring gaskets are seated in their grooves properly, and tighten until you have no water leaking from the sprayer head/hose connection. Now try the water through the faucet. If the problem was a temporary diverter issue, your pressure should be fine now. Good luck

Try spraying white vinegar on it and all around it, ANYwhere that water can settle. Water carries dissolved minerals such as calcium and magnesium. As it dries, it leaves a build up of these minerals, that in turn, form a hard, crusty covering that can cause a lot of various issues. The acetic acid in the vinegar will safely dissolve most of the deposits, making it easier to move. :) P.B.

You will need to replace the o rings. Buy the proper kit from your local hardware store. Turn the water off. Remove the handle (screw under top cap0 and the spout will slide up and off. Replace o rings and lube them with plumbers grease or Vaseline.
from:
fshnfool Rank: Master, posted September 2009

The ball assembly is more than likely bad,you need to turn off water use allen wrench to remove handle unscrew retainer cap remove all components and replace including washers and springs,all available at some home improvement stores,hardware store,or plumbing supply stores.

Using the number you gave it is an American Standard faucet here is a link to a parts place.
I would use the factory parts.

http://americanstandard.faucetdirect.com/index.cfm?page=product:partsDisplay&productId=4205.104&manufacturer=American%20Standard

if you are having trouble removing the set screw make sure you are using the correct size allen wrench and confirm that it is a allen screw and not a trox screw. After doing this try tighten the screw slightly before loosening it. This should break it loose.

hi! if tightening the knob(s), (or if you apply pressure on the knob of the faucet,for the models with no thread for open/close), modify the amount of water leaking ,you need to replace the seats in the faucet. if not ,just replacing the o rings should fix your problem.

At the base of the handle there is a flow regulating check valve. Shut off water supply and unscrew handle and look for debris. Many times the washers break down on the shutoffs under the sink and release "crumbs", these usually block aerators and sometimes the cartridges on certain faucets. Hope this was helpful.

There is a possibility when you installed it calcium and other foreign deposits clogged the hot side of the faucet. It is important before connecting your supply lines to flush out into a bucket before connecting. Most faucets are now made to save water and come with restrictive orifice in the valves. Water heaters are rarely maintained by completely shutting them down, flushing and cleaning tank, vacuum out firebox, test T&P valves and visually check for any signs of corrosion on an annual basis. They are usually the culprit for the types of problem you are describing. Try disconnecting your hot water supply at the emergency shut off valve, (make sure it's off) take a bucket and with the cold water still on, open your faucet to the center position. This may blow out the debris that is stuck in orifice.

It says you have a problem with the hot water. First thing to do is to turn the hot water supply valve under the sink off, and then remove the line from the valve to the faucet at the valve. Then put a bucket underneath the valve and turn it on (carefully). If you don't get any flow, then the problem is in the valve or the pipes supplying the faucet. If you get flow there, then the problem is in the supply line or possibly at the faucet.

http://www.americanstandard-us.com/assets/documents/amstd/parts/Parts_1859.pdf

You need to replace the O-ring that seals the place it's leaking. The part number
M962303-0070A on the diagram above (click the link)

Hi,
The noise you are hearing is know as water hammer....it is a result of the sudden change in pressure in the piping....it is not cause for concern just a pain in the rear...

You could replace the faucet, but many of the newr ones for some reason do that...the other way to fix it is to have a water hammer arrestor installed in the piping...

heatman101

Here is a link to the manual it is a pdf document http://www.americanstandard-us.com/assets/documents/amstd/parts/Parts_1859.pdf

Remove the spray head and point the hose into the sink drain. Turn the faucet on. If you have good pressure, cal American Standard for a free replacement spray head.
If you still have low water pressure without the spray head, ask them for a new faucet cartridge.
After replacing the faucet cartridge, if you still have low water pressure you will need to ask for a new faucet, possibly free if yours is still under warranty.

The single handled faucets have a valve cartridge which needs to be replaced when it leaks. Disassemble the handle to find the valve inside. Take the valve to the hardware store to be sure you get the right one and reassemble. To disassemble, pop the cap off the lever, unscrew the single screw, then use slip-joint pliers to loosen the retainer nut. lift the cartridge out with pliers taking note of the direction of the notch at the top of the stem. Be sure to reassemble with the notch facing in the same direction. You should replace and lubricate the O-rings when you change the valve cartridge.
Since you have the numbers for that particular faucet, you might want to call around to find the cartridge first. Different models have different valves, so be sure yours is correct.